Ugh I have to say I have no idea, put a tiny drip on a cotton-swap and it might be fine.
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Ugh I have to say I have no idea, put a tiny drip on a cotton-swap and it might be fine.
How necessary is it? Ive wiped out most the residue, now with a microfiber cloth
Probably not necessary if you've already gotten most of it off, it's mostly used to make hardened paste easier to remove.
Ok thanks
I managed to remove three pieces of old paste that fell under the cpu
So nerve wracking
Now ill clean more with the cloth and put it al together
I managed to remove three pieces of old paste that fell under the cpu
So nerve wracking
Now ill clean more with the cloth and put it al together
I wiped it off with a micro fiber cloth. Turned it on and CPU temp is 43, but havent run a game yet. Heard a slight froggy sound like ribbiting really fast.buzzing, so I worry if I did something wrong... Is that just vibration from something?
I am confident the Heatsink is sitting back in properly, i checked the scews.
Also, how do I know if the paste didnt spill? I applied a pea size, but Im not really sure if it would spill
Edit: CPU temp has already rose to 50 and I just have resetera and Afterburner open :O
Edit: 57... settling around 59 with just a few tabs open.
This is afterburner. What stats should I monitor with HWMonitor? There are several temps for CPUs. Is it the "Core #s" or the CPUTIN?
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You might have a cable running against one of the fans.
That sounds high for an idle system.
Oh geez, maybe i didnt snap the wire back into the heat sink
Its settled around 45-50C, but man, sounds like my troubles arent over.... Not sure what to do now. It reached a high of 60, but now with a few tabs open and a Fortnite download finished, it's at 45ish.
My GPU is 34C, that's perfectly fine right? So it seems just my CPU is the issue..
Not seeing ambient temp. I see Assembly, Air flow, (37c), but dont see ambient.
Now, I played some Fortnite for about 10 minutes, and the max CORE temp was 63C, which is dramatically lower than the 100C I had yesterday.
GPU maxed at 60C when playing fortnite, but is now sitting at 34C when browsing resetera
Is it possible I have background apps running or things that shouldnt be running in the background? I dont know more than half the things running in task manager. Bunch of service host things, but nothing of significance is eating at the computer, just firefox for now.
Keep us updated!
Well if you're not exceeding 70°C under load I say your temps are fine for an Intel stock-cooler, especially in Summer so you did well! :) If that noise doesn't come back keep an eye on the temps but seems like you're through the worst.
It was the wire! So thankfully everything seems okay. Maybe itll be lower with firefox turned off, so ill check.
So if it goes over 70, I should consider maybe a new option like a new heatsink? I am hoping to try pubg and siege and see if those games stress the cou and gpu even worse
Thank goodness I did this. Cant believe i was going over 100. I wonder how long that has been going on for because it seems my chip has been under heavy strain for so long.
That sounds like a good plan of action, keep us updated! And don't worry too much about that, the chips are designed to shut-down before they truly damage themselves.
Thanks for all your help
One last question: supposing i did change the heatsink, how big of a difference does it even make?
Changing the thermal paste dramatically dropped the temp by about 40 degrees. Would a fan really lower it even further dramatically?
How do I transfer files from my iphone to my PC (Windows 10) without itunes? Itunes, whether it be from the app install downloaded from the Apple website or from the Microsoft Store, doesn't even work on my PC for some reason. The app freezes if I ever get it to open, then after that it never opens again and just stays stuck as a 7MB process running in the background. If I run the app as an administrator, all I get is the itunes permissions page.
You're welcome :) Well this all depends on your viewpoint. I'm running a somewhat advanced fan, a beQuiet! Dark Rock 3 and I don't break the 65°C mark even in summer with my 3570k overclocked to 4.5ghz. So while a new fan might not push the temps down drastically at first glance you'll have headroom if you ever want to overclock and the biggest advantage is noise. Intel's stock-coolers are quite loud while with any good aftermarket heatsink it should become mostly inaudible over the rest of your PC.
Increasingly irritated with my Apple TV/PC connectivity, so looking for alternatives.
It's the Gen 2 model (I think). The predecessor to the Siri-enabled model with true App Store apps and games.
My PS3 used to act as a DNLA media server, but I don't have it anymore.
I require a nice GUI showing the library, Plex via a mobile or tablet device doesn't meet this need but Plex on PS4 does (it looks lovely).
However my experience with Plex overall is it's not always reliable and I'm unsure why. Plus the Apple TV does not require a browser/web page logged in.
I was looking at WD Live options but they are discontinued, would have been nice to not worry about a constant internet connection.
It's the Gen 2 model (I think). The predecessor to the Siri-enabled model with true App Store apps and games.
My PS3 used to act as a DNLA media server, but I don't have it anymore.
I require a nice GUI showing the library, Plex via a mobile or tablet device doesn't meet this need but Plex on PS4 does (it looks lovely).
However my experience with Plex overall is it's not always reliable and I'm unsure why. Plus the Apple TV does not require a browser/web page logged in.
I was looking at WD Live options but they are discontinued, would have been nice to not worry about a constant internet connection.
I haven't used it in a long time, so pinch-of-salt with this suggestion, but Universal Media Server might do what you're looking for?
Thanks, I'll check it out.
I'm looking at WD Live/non-internet based options a little bit more now, as a side project (60-ish Aunty lives in a house without internet and would like watch more of Robert Downey Jr in the Marvel movies. I said I can help with that.)
What kind of files? For media you can just plug in via USB and use like an external drive.
For other things I just use the Save to Dropbox button and pull down from PC.
I just bought an RX 580 Nitro+. It has connectors for an 8 pin and a 6 pin. Is it okay to use the same cable from the PSU for both connections? I have a cable that splits into two 6+2 connectors. Can I use one cable, or do I need two separate cables from the PSU for each connector?
One cable should be fine aslong as your PSU is of decent quality.
You should use separate cables instead of a cable that splits one PCIe power connection in two.
As far as I understood it he/she doesn't use a splitter but rather meant the standard dual-rail PCI-E connectors.
Still, it's better to split the load across two cables if you have the option. Sometimes you get things like a single cable melting or triggering over-current protections.
It's only a 580 though so using a single cable is probably fine on a good power supply?
I just recently switched to a multimonitor setup: A 4k monitor flanked by two 1080p monitors. Windows 10 actually manages the mismatched resolutions well, most of the time.
So I play on the center monitor, usually in a borderless window so that I can easily do youtube/twitter/discord/whatever in the other monitors.
However, sometimes, it seems like windows "loses focus" (or is it priority?) on the game on the 4k monitor and the framerate tanks. It goes away if I "tab back in" to the game, but it's frustrating. I'm not sure what causes it.
Any ideas on this one? I'd hate to have to play games in fullscreen and make the other monitors useless. I think it might be based on some weird scaling/aspect ratio thing of each display, but I have no idea.
So I play on the center monitor, usually in a borderless window so that I can easily do youtube/twitter/discord/whatever in the other monitors.
However, sometimes, it seems like windows "loses focus" (or is it priority?) on the game on the 4k monitor and the framerate tanks. It goes away if I "tab back in" to the game, but it's frustrating. I'm not sure what causes it.
Any ideas on this one? I'd hate to have to play games in fullscreen and make the other monitors useless. I think it might be based on some weird scaling/aspect ratio thing of each display, but I have no idea.
Yeah I agree with that, that's why I said a decent quality PSU is important for doing this, but then again PSU quality is a thing nobody should ever cheap-out on.
You don't. Because Apple.
I ended up using OneDrive on my iPad a lot for this same reason. Dropbox is also a good solution. If I didn't need my iPad for specific work related software I would switch to an Android or Surface tablet yesterday. Apple is so damn restrictive with everything they do. I left my charger at home once while working out of a hotel for a week and tried buying a replacement from a supermarket for £6. Plugging it in flashed up a "not charging" message, and after a quick Google I discovered there was a recent software update that prevented third party chargers working "for consumer safety reasons". Uh huh. The official charging cable cost me £20. And that did not come with the also-required official plug socket that the cable connects to. That was another £20.
Fhbefinwefnkwrfnkrnsgnkwekgnrao. APPLE! Grrrrrr...
Depends on the files. Photos just plug it in a usb slot.
Other files your best bet is to use something like google drive or Apple does have its own " files " web app now.
I needed to transfer some videos I took. I didn't even know that you could just plug it in and access photos, thought it had to always go through itunes. Anyway, I ended up just using an app called Air Transfer to transfer my videos over wifi
Just to be clear: it's for photos and videos - whatever is in the Camera Roll.
If you have a multi-rail power supply - which any good power supply should be - then you should be splitting the load across two rails using two cables rather than putting it all on one of them with a splitter.
A 6-pin power cable is rated to handle 75W, and an 8-pin 150W. Most cables are over-specced, but that's 225W it could be pulling over a single cable if you're using a cable/adapter like this one.
You're right that it probably doesn't matter with an RX580, but most high quality power supplies won't even include cables like that.
EDIT: Added some text for clarification.
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I'm pretty sure that my 1000W Titanium Seasonic said to split the load in the instructions as you say, and it's pretty high end.
It won't hurt your CPU at all.
- If the framerate is uncapped (V-Sync off etc.) ideally your GPU would be at 100% utilization at all times. If it's not, it means that something else in your system is holding it back - typically the CPU.
- If the CPU is at 100% and the GPU is at less than 100% utilization, you would need a faster CPU to improve the framerate.
- But if the CPU and GPU utilization are both low, it indicates an optimization issue with the game (though any of the above could also be optimization issues).
GPU utilization is only at 65%, overall CPU utilization is at 17%, and the framerate is only 47 FPS.
If the GPU could be fully utilized, the framerate should be ~72 FPS rather than 47 FPS.
When looking at per-core CPU utilization, we can see that many cores are sitting idle, many are at only 15%, three are around 30%, and one core is at 85% utilization.
So the game is barely using more than 4 cores out of the 16 available, and most of the workload is being placed on a single thread.
Though that thread is not at 100% utilization, it's clearly the bottleneck here. If the game was better multi-threaded, it should be able to better utilize the GPU.
I could upgrade this system from a GTX 1070 to a 1080 Ti or Titan V, and performance would still be stuck at 47 FPS.
The only things that would help are either upgrading the CPU to something which has better single-threaded performance, or if the developers were to patch it to spread the work that is being placed on a single core across multiple cores.
It won't hurt your CPU at all.
Here's an example from Vampyr:
- If the framerate is uncapped (V-Sync off etc.) ideally your GPU would be at 100% utilization at all times. If it's not, it means that something else in your system is holding it back - typically the CPU.
- If the CPU is at 100% and the GPU is at less than 100% utilization, you would need a faster CPU to improve the framerate.
- But if the CPU and GPU utilization are both low, it indicates an optimization issue with the game (though any of the above could also be optimization issues).
GPU utilization is only at 65%, overall CPU utilization is at 17%, and the framerate is only 47 FPS.
If the GPU could be fully utilized, the framerate should be ~72 FPS rather than 47 FPS.
When looking at per-core CPU utilization, we can see that many cores are sitting idle, many are at only 15%, three are around 30%, and one core is at 85% utilization.
So the game is barely using more than 4 cores out of the 16 available, and most of the workload is being placed on a single thread.
Though that thread is not at 100% utilization, it's clearly the bottleneck here. If the game was better multi-threaded, it should be able to better utilize the GPU.
I could upgrade this system from a GTX 1070 to a 1080 Ti or Titan V, and performance would still be stuck at 47 FPS.
The only things that would help are either upgrading the CPU to something which has better single-threaded performance, or if the developers were to patch it to spread the work that is being placed on a single core across multiple cores.
Appreciate the big and detailed reply! Really helped a lot!
Which do you guys think is the better buy; a monitor with 75hz and Freesync or 144hz but no Freesync?
So, this is my order from all the way back in 2009.
Going off those parts, what would be a fair price for them now (well, most of them. The harddrive has been taken out and not being sold). Is it even possible to sell this PC?
Here's the list with the links if you want to view them individually.
I have six Corsair fans. One 140LL RGB fan for the back fan, two 120ML RGB fans for the radiator, two 140 AF Purple fans at the front, and another 120ML RGB fan for the bottom. I have no idea how to coordinate the colors or the fan operations. Do I need a RGB LED Hub, Commander Pro, etc. I simply want the fans to operate and have the colors work. The website confuses me, and I am not sure where to go. I do know that I can't mix different fan types (a la ML and LL), but I would like to know how a potential setup would work out.
Just about to start a new build and *sigh* I'm going to have finally use Windows 10.
Is there a recent guide how to disable most of the telemetry bullshit without fucking up your system?
Is there a recent guide how to disable most of the telemetry bullshit without fucking up your system?
You can use a little tool called "shutup10". Just apply the recommended settings, and every annoying "feature" of Windows 10 is disabled (telemetry, ads etc)
Honestly I'm just trying to get rid of it in the most profitable way possible If I have to sell it at $50, so be it.
i personally dont have these fans or have any experience with them, but corsair's site says that both ML and LL series fans are compatible with their iCUE software so i dont see why they wouldnt work https://www.corsair.com/us/en/icue. theres a diagram on there that makes it look like all you need is a lighting node pro from corsair and the iCUE software to get everything to play nice with each other. again, no first hand experience but it looks pretty straight forward.
What does Windows' "Fullscreen Optimization" option do and why does it make games like Battlefront 2 unplayable for me? I was getting extreme stuttering when performing actions for the first time when first loading up the campaign mode, and just overall bad performance throughout. I then found out about disabling this option and it fixed all my issues. Am I supposed to disable this option for every other game I play too?