Using that, even if successful, would also mean that there's no HDR, correct?
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2019-2022 LG and Sony OLEDs calibration and general settings
- Thread starter da1eb7150
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Using that, even if successful, would also mean that there's no HDR, correct?
I just realized that it's not like my 1080ti is going to push 4K at 120hz anyway on modern titles, so 1440p @ 120hz should be fine. Thanks Ifrit and Boris and 2Blackcats!
I have this very annoying issue with my BX and the AVR that didn't happen on the B8. It's probably similar in B/C9/CX models. I have a Harman Kardon AVR that's connected via HDMI ARC to the TV. Whenever I turn on the TV and the last input used was the AVR (as I use some of it's Video inputs for Switch and SKY TV), TV audio is automatically switched to Internal TV Speakers and I have to go and switch it to HDMI ARC. It's an annoyance that I didn't have to suffer with the B8. Has anyone experienced this? Any solutions? Is there a way to set a default HDMI input when turning on the set?
Do you ever use the internal speakers? Isn't there an option to disable them?
Is now the right time to jump on the c9 wagon? What's a good going price right now? Also, is the c9 still the best tv for gaming atm?
C9 or CX will both do you good.
I'm not sure if you'll be able to find a C9 easily now.
P.s. HDR in Maneater plz
I don't. I have the AVR for Surround Sound. I don't think you can disable the internal TV Speakers.
I'm not near my TV at the moment but on my older LG it was an option.
I had problems a lot while connecting my B9 to my PC, the problem was the HDMI cable
I finally got the CX. I played around with the PS4 Pro and the settings for HDR and SDR. I have to disagree with people saying to force low black level. HDR looks to only work properly with low, however SDR content looks crushed if not using high (without mismatch). I put both the CX (SDR + HDR profiles) and the PS4 Pro to automatic black level, and this gives me low for HDR and high for SDR.
Same happens to me. Also happens if I switch from a built in app to an HDMI source. I actually posted about this in the TV thread a couple days ago but got no response, also seen someone post about it on AVS.
It's so damn annoying. My B7 never did this. In fact, my B7 was set to internal speakers with volume on 0 and my AVR took care of the audio. The CX on the other hand takes over and won't let my AVR play sound unless the TV is set to HDMI ARC.
Did you check this against a black crush test? The AVS HD 709 calib tools are good for this. I thought my C9 was crushing SD content but it's just a side effect of black levels being incredibly black with details closest to true black being difficult to discern.
Right, it seems out best bet is to wait for a fix in a patch from LG. Having a default HDMI input when turning on the panel would help a bit but it doesn't seem to be an option.
I'm thinking about buying a soundbar w/wireless base and backspeakers for my C9.
This TV is only ARC correct? Not eARC?
Any soundbar recommendations?
This TV is only ARC correct? Not eARC?
Any soundbar recommendations?
Has anyone experienced an issue with the Apple TV app where content suddenly stops and it goes to the TV's screensaver (pixel fireworks thing)? Then after waking it up the content doesn't start playback again, loading bar keeps spinning.
This is happening on an older B8 model I have.
This is happening on an older B8 model I have.
Linus did a video comparing the Series X with the 1X using LG OLEDs. VRR was not working/showing as an option in the menu. They did note that this isn't the final release software. Around the 4:25 mark.
Series X vs. Xbox One - What's the Difference??
*Free 32GB Flash Drive & 32GB Micro SD Card: https://rebrand.ly/zvaxtl9Join the Micro Center Community: https://rebrand.ly/c4bra5mMicro Center Custom PC Buil...
www.youtube.com
Linus did a video comparing the Series X with the 1X using LG OLEDs. VRR was not working/showing as an option in the menu. They did note that this isn't the final release software. Around the 4:25 mark.
Series X vs. Xbox One - What's the Difference??
*Free 32GB Flash Drive & 32GB Micro SD Card: https://rebrand.ly/zvaxtl9Join the Micro Center Community: https://rebrand.ly/c4bra5mMicro Center Custom PC Buil...
Well that sucks. Wonder what the issue is... :/
Pre-release firmware. Hopefully it is fixed for launch. Who knows though...C9 and CX are having issues with the 3080 doing 4K120hz with VRR over HDMI 2.1 at the moment. Last I saw was that LG was expected to release a fix at the end of next month.
I just got my CAC 1085. I found this reddit post and it mostly works. When full 4K, I get overscan. I have to slightly bump down the resolution to get full screen. Turning off pixel shift in the TV alone didn't fix overscan, and my original problem with the screen going black with audio still playing happens on this device too....
The 4K 120hz is nice, so worth it
The 4K 120hz is nice, so worth it
My brother wants a C9 or CX, what are the biggest advantages / disadvantages that the CX has over the C9? And what is the best option in a price difference between the two?
Note on the Sonos Arc: I have it (along with the sub and two rear Sonos Ones), I think it's legitimately great, but it doesn't have multi-channel LPCM yet which is a giant hole in its functionality. Essentially limits my Switch and PC to stereo until they get their act together. They said the update should be out before the end of the year, and I really hope that's true.
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So I just picked up the CX and it's been great using it with the Ps4 so far, but had a couple questions about setting it up for my pc. Been Googling for a while now and can't figure it out since I'm not really knowledgeable about TV tech.
1. I read about "4 4 4 chroma subsampling", I think I found the right settings in Nvidia control panel, but I really have no idea what I'm doing. Is there any reason not to leave it at the default RGB full settings?
2. My pc doesn't have the greatest specs, cpu is about 7 years old, 8gb ram, with the 1070 being the highlight. I would rather have the higher framerates than resolution on TV. I've read that the CX upscales 1080/1440 resolutions well, but don't know how to set it up. Do I just set the desired resolution in the Nvidia control panel and the TV automatically upscales it?
Thanks!
1. I read about "4 4 4 chroma subsampling", I think I found the right settings in Nvidia control panel, but I really have no idea what I'm doing. Is there any reason not to leave it at the default RGB full settings?
2. My pc doesn't have the greatest specs, cpu is about 7 years old, 8gb ram, with the 1070 being the highlight. I would rather have the higher framerates than resolution on TV. I've read that the CX upscales 1080/1440 resolutions well, but don't know how to set it up. Do I just set the desired resolution in the Nvidia control panel and the TV automatically upscales it?
Thanks!
Great! I see now from further searching that other people have been mislead as well due to the 'arc' (not eARC) label on the TV HDMI port.
And I just ordered a Sonos ARC. Will try it out without any extra wireless speakers/sub to see if it's sufficient.
Hey guys
Probably unsual question but are you all using the standard remonte controls?
I'm using a Samsung TV since few years now with a minimal remote (https://www.overstock.com/Electroni...5KS9500F-UN55KS9500FXZA/23441867/product.html)
I'm looking for C9 or CX TV, but I'm feeling like going back 20 years ago with this old remote.
I know, it's only remote control, but for this price I'm excepting for something more modern. Even OnePlus is making a better/modern one.
Probably unsual question but are you all using the standard remonte controls?
I'm using a Samsung TV since few years now with a minimal remote (https://www.overstock.com/Electroni...5KS9500F-UN55KS9500FXZA/23441867/product.html)
I'm looking for C9 or CX TV, but I'm feeling like going back 20 years ago with this old remote.
I know, it's only remote control, but for this price I'm excepting for something more modern. Even OnePlus is making a better/modern one.
So how do I get it so my CX can show a pure white screen? It's lame it advertises how bright it can get but when it tries to do that, it gets all gray. Very distracting for games where transitions to white get all janky and dimmed.
Someone wrote something about some problems with 30fps games on a LG C9, so that it might be a problem when playing older games. Is anyone able to expand on this? Is this an issue? I like to play classic games that are sometimes locked to 30fps, so I'm just wondering if it's still a thing.
I'm sorry if this has been discussed before, but I'm trying to dig into the finer details of ALLM on this TV and I'm winding up with different answers. I have the TV hooked up to my PC (RTX 3080) for what it's worth.
Some people say that when ALLM kicks in it switches your picture mode from whatever you have it on to the Game picture mode then back when you exit back out. This makes sense on a logical level.
Others have stated that what ALLM actually does is give you the input lag of Game mode while actually being on whatever picture mode you want. Obviously this is the dream: ISF dark mode with no adverse effects on latency? Yes please. In the same vein, people will say that while the TV says it's switching to the Game picture mode (like if you go to the Settings menu it will say Game, not ISF Dark) it's really not and still using your original mode with game-like settings.
So.. what gives. Has anyone actually tested the input lag on a machine where the TV has kicked in to ALLM but is still set to ISF or something?
Some people say that when ALLM kicks in it switches your picture mode from whatever you have it on to the Game picture mode then back when you exit back out. This makes sense on a logical level.
Others have stated that what ALLM actually does is give you the input lag of Game mode while actually being on whatever picture mode you want. Obviously this is the dream: ISF dark mode with no adverse effects on latency? Yes please. In the same vein, people will say that while the TV says it's switching to the Game picture mode (like if you go to the Settings menu it will say Game, not ISF Dark) it's really not and still using your original mode with game-like settings.
So.. what gives. Has anyone actually tested the input lag on a machine where the TV has kicked in to ALLM but is still set to ISF or something?
the games at 30fps on oled tv are often the victim of swimming, jerking ... on the other hand in 60fps no. it is the oled technology that wants that, some people see it more than others
Been using the standard remote since it's not IR. But the Magic Remote is decent. Only thing I dint like is the volume buttons being not full normal buttons.
what does swimming and jerking mean? and how noticeable is it?
sorry for the translation I'm french and google translate has trouble sometimes.
on some games with unstable framerate there may be stuttering this is due to oled technology. here is an article from rtings.com
5.0 Stutter
Frame Hold Time @ 24 fps
39.3 ms
Frame Hold Time @ 60 fps
14.3 ms
Due to the nearly instantaneous response time, 24p motion can appear to stutter, as each frame is held static onscreen for nearly the entire time. This can be especially noticeable in slow panning shots when watching movies.
If this effect bothers you, you can either enable the TV's OLED Motion feature, which can help a bit, or enable the C9's motion interpolation feature.
Just got a Sonos Arc for my C9 and I'm realizing I'm going to need another HDMI port to accommodate my PS5 when it arrives.
Right now, I have the Arc connected over the eARC port, and my Nvidia Shield, Xbox, and Switch on the other 3 HDMI ports.
Is it time to get a receiver, or is there a another solution like an HDMI switch that can accommodate 4K @ 120hz, HDR, Atmos, etc? I'd like to avoid dropping another couple hundred bucks if possible just to have one more HDMI port...
Right now, I have the Arc connected over the eARC port, and my Nvidia Shield, Xbox, and Switch on the other 3 HDMI ports.
Is it time to get a receiver, or is there a another solution like an HDMI switch that can accommodate 4K @ 120hz, HDR, Atmos, etc? I'd like to avoid dropping another couple hundred bucks if possible just to have one more HDMI port...
I know it's a hard question to answer with the systems not being out yet, but is there any reason to believe the CX wouldn't be compatible with some PS5 functionnalities? VRR, HDR, etc.
Or does the fact it's HDMI 2.1 pretty much guarantees it should work properly?
In my country the CX is getting very close to the price I'm willing to pay for it and all the disclosure is making me nervous...
Or does the fact it's HDMI 2.1 pretty much guarantees it should work properly?
In my country the CX is getting very close to the price I'm willing to pay for it and all the disclosure is making me nervous...
It should work properly but then obviously there is slight weirdness like we've seen the RTX 3080s which has now seemingly been fixed.
If there are any bugs/issues you'd imagine they're likely to get sorted out.
What a great time for this bs to happen 4 weeks out from the new ps5 launch.
The other day I started seeing this white flash on the bottom of my screen horizontally and I've uploaded a video.
check this
Starts about 2 seconds in. (don't mind the audio)
Also happens randomly every 10-15 seconds or more on all inputs and always in the same spot on the screen. I've called LG to bring a repair company out and I'm waiting for that.
Anyone have experience with this happening to them and what was the result?
The other day I started seeing this white flash on the bottom of my screen horizontally and I've uploaded a video.
check this
Starts about 2 seconds in. (don't mind the audio)
Also happens randomly every 10-15 seconds or more on all inputs and always in the same spot on the screen. I've called LG to bring a repair company out and I'm waiting for that.
Anyone have experience with this happening to them and what was the result?
Was this with the same cable on all inputs? I had that issue with an HDMI cable that didn't sit quite right in my GPU's HDMI port. (Though it wasn't happening on a fixed interval.)
I have one hdmi in now but even in apps like netflix and vudu it still happens.
got my bx today! Holy crap hard to setup by yourself! Quick question, is there a way to see the current resolution of your input? on a lot of my old TVs you could hit display or something similar but not seeing an easy way to tell here.
going to do the rtings settings later on, but looks good so far!
going to do the rtings settings later on, but looks good so far!
Should be the same as my CX. With the pointer on the screen, click the wheel button, and then click on the source banner. If there is a faster way, then I haven't found it.
EDIT: Oh. Faster way. Hit the ... button and click Information.
oh thanks, i did that and nothing happens after i click information! watching from webos so maybe that's why?
yeah worked on the ps4
In windows HDR, is there any way to get it to only run when launching a compatible application or anything? It makes SDR content look awful.
Also in washington and we had a power outage earlier today. PC restarted, and now I'm getting a black screen every minute or so for a second followed by "instant game response Launched" message. It's getting really annoying and I can't seem to fix it.
Edit: Whelp that doesn't even seem to matter, can't run window HDR and start a game at 1440p 120hz Gsync either. Screen just goes black. This is really odd. On a RTX 3080 with 48Gbps hdmi 2.1 cable.
Edit 2: It also seems like the image isn't fitting on the screen properly anymore, like it's been overscanned or something. The task bar is somewhat cut off.
May have been screen shift being enabled? Was having a ton off odd issues. Seemed like I had disable it before, but got re enabled.
Edit 3: That resolved the overscan type issue, but still getting constant handshake issues.
Also in washington and we had a power outage earlier today. PC restarted, and now I'm getting a black screen every minute or so for a second followed by "instant game response Launched" message. It's getting really annoying and I can't seem to fix it.
Edit: Whelp that doesn't even seem to matter, can't run window HDR and start a game at 1440p 120hz Gsync either. Screen just goes black. This is really odd. On a RTX 3080 with 48Gbps hdmi 2.1 cable.
Edit 2: It also seems like the image isn't fitting on the screen properly anymore, like it's been overscanned or something. The task bar is somewhat cut off.
May have been screen shift being enabled? Was having a ton off odd issues. Seemed like I had disable it before, but got re enabled.
Edit 3: That resolved the overscan type issue, but still getting constant handshake issues.
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