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2019-2022 LG and Sony OLEDs calibration and general settings
- Thread starter da1eb7150
- Start date
OP
OP
I just did the black test for my C9 here http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php and I think my black levels may be screwed up?
1 through to 8 or 9 basically look the exact same complete darkness and tbh the difference only starts to become apparent at 15. It's on the isf expert bright room setting so I would have thought the results would be a bit better? I had to use the built in web browser on the tv though so could that have messed things up? If not then what sort of settings should I change so all the boxes look different and correct?
1 through to 8 or 9 basically look the exact same complete darkness and tbh the difference only starts to become apparent at 15. It's on the isf expert bright room setting so I would have thought the results would be a bit better? I had to use the built in web browser on the tv though so could that have messed things up? If not then what sort of settings should I change so all the boxes look different and correct?
OP
OP
It does in all modes bar game mode you can test this yourself by putting it in another game mode and flashing your fone torch on the sensor it's changes the screen brightness but gamemode doesn't do anything
I just did some tests on resident evil 3 in hdr with HGIG and DTM OFF of course by setting the HDR in each mode in the ps4 menu, with HGIG in the game the lights are too bright we lose details while with DTM off is much better, so I now stay with DTM off for all the games I do not want to change settings for each game.
I connected my airpods to the TV to play ring-fit adventure on the switch since its early in the morning. For some reason the volume remained incredibly low even though it was cranked all the way up. Any reason why this is? I've connected my airpods to the TV before and it the volume works great most of the time.
Thanks!
Thanks!
OP
OP
Maybe that's just how the PS4 deals with HGIG as there's more detail on the Xbox version of this
HGIG is only going to be good, when it's console level and games make use of it surely?
Dunno how it is for a C9, but on the C8 it would lift blacks, making it a bit pointless. I'm hoping that part of it has improved for the C9/X, as i have an X coming Friday.
OP
OP
Surely it doesn't matter as HGIG will map to approx 720 to 800 nits so with an in-game slider set to that same level it should look the same Forza horizon 4 for instance is brighter with HGIG on rather than DTM off and theres no noticeable clipping difference between the too only HGIG is brighter
Yeah sure, I mean that makes sense, the other dude was saying that RE3 clips with HGIG on, but perhaps the in game settings were off? And this is where global console HGIG values work (providing the game feeds into it too) and no adjustment at all is needed. Looking forward to trying these things for myself.
HGiG is useable for any game that offers a peak brightness setting
ok thanks but does ghost of tsushima offer maximum brightness setting? I think so when the game is launched for the first time it asks us to adjust the brightness so that the eyes of the samurai appear? because with HGIG the game is super dark
I'm still perfectly happy with my B7 with no real need to upgrade so far (even with Xbox Series X approaching, considering I will still prefer playing at 4K/60 all the time and not @ 120fps with downgraded resolution or fidelity, so no real need for HDMI 2.1 for now).
That said, CX changed a fair bit compared to 2017 models, but I can still give you some "Universal Suggestions" that will for sure still apply:
The universal recommendations I could still give you are:
- Always disable TruMotion and other motion smoothing options. Just enable "Real Cinema" if available and that's it;
- Always use ISF Expert Dark preset for all SDR;
- Always use Technicolor Expert preset for all HDR;
- Always use DV Cinema Home preset for all DOLBY VISION;
- For gaming: enable ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode) if you have it, and try to equal the values and accuracy of the presets above also in SDR/HDR Game Modes. Enable Dynamic Tone Mapping in HDR also there;
- Use Sharpness 0 in all modes
- Avoid PC Input icon. Use "Game Console" HDMI icon instead
- Check YCC 422 and also 10-Bit Color Depth on Xbox Video Options (for less color banding in SDR and better clarity in HDR with no visual degradation);
- Always keep both TV and Consoles updated to latest software.
Enjoy your incredibile TV :D
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Out of interest, what's your reason for not going over 70? I noticed on my C8 that when I was trying to compensate for the dimming when using BFI, sticking oled light to around 80-100 would make the blacks go horrible, kind of raised and redish, really noticeable in a dark room.
Basically cranking SDR OLED Light over that will start making the panel go in "torch mode", where the the risk of image retention or even permanent burn-in will be much higher.
For C8 I would just prefer turning BFI off and stick with SDR OLED Light 60 (or 70 when in SDR Game Mode)
HDR OLED Light at 100 is perfectly fine and the correct value instead.
It does, but this is done by the PS4's internal hdr setup.
The eyes setup is just a setup so the game should be overall Dark/bright enough. I'd just leave it in the middle position, if you aren't sure. I was never fully satisfied it looked right
For Dolby it depends on the movie or show you watch for Cinema Home vs Cinema. I usually have Cinema as default unless the movie or show is already dark and it darks the image too much.
I use the same with HDR stuff, never really used Tecnicolor expert preset for HDR.
I have my OLED lights to 70 to 80 because having it on 100 burns the subtitles in to my retina's at night.
They're almost identical, but both on AVSForum and most calibrators found Technicolor even more accurate out of the box.
DV Cinema is too often too dim compared to reference.
DV Cinema Home (with Brightness 49) brings back the Luminance with a better tone map, without raised blacks, white clipping and/or altered colors.
Technicolor has a non-standard white point and will appear greener vs D65 , this may be preferable if you find an uncalibrated set a little too yellow.
Dolby Vision home inaccurate and is over-brightened vs EOTF. It's intended for Home use.
That's the same for all of the modes
Cinema is generally the more accurate mode, Home is the brighter punchier mode.
Dolby Vision home inaccurate and is over-brightened vs EOTF. It's intended for Home use.
That's the same for all of the modes
Cinema is generally the more accurate mode, Home is the brighter punchier mode.
This was not the case with 2017 models' HDR Technicolor preset compared to HDR Cinema preset. No temperature changes using the same settings.
I think the greener white point change affects the newer HDR Technicolor presets found on 2019 sets or newer.
For those cases, yes, it's probably better to stick with HDR Cinema.
For DV Cinema vs DV Cinema Home, yeah, on paper DV Cinema tracks EOTF better but in reality most movies I've watched with the first were too much dimmer compared to their HDR versions (using calibrated HDR Cinema and/or HDR Technicolor).
DV Cinema Home brings back the missing Luminance while also giving a bit more pop, all without screwing up blacks/white/colors accuracy.
I found out on AVS that the latest firmware for the C9 added something called GSR in the service menu. Basically it disables the dimming algorithm from kicking in. I think its used mostly for Post Production studios working on film and TV. There's increased burn in risk leaving it off but its an interesting addition.
I think this made it's way out of the studio firmware.
I wonder if that stops the big dimming I've only ever seen in rocket league....
Nope.
Doesn't affect that.
Just Stops the dimming in a desktop environment
Apparently the GSR feature is also added to the C8. At AVS one poster tested with a meter.
I could be wrong but it sounds like its not just for the desktop environment but perhaps Vincent can confirm.
"GSR on: after 4 minutes the picture was dimmed down from 135 to 83 nits. :mad:
GSR off: No dimming at all after 10 minutes! :D
So that's what it does. It disables this new dimming algorithm, which was added to 2018 TVs and which is separate from the long known ASBL."
Another post:
"I will have dimming disabled forever, and now it's working like a dream TV for the home movie enthusiast.
Its a feature we are waiting for years. It will be rare to watch the same movie two times, at least to watch it one time but to have as best as possible video playback experience.
But if the TV is working 10 hours a day, to watch TV stations or for games (where they have fixed GUI) or for desktop monitor screen, I believe it should be disabled."
You can also try the "DOLBY VISION GAME" preset but using the same settings of the "DV CINEMA" preset.
It's a great middle ground between DV CINEMA (too often too dim) and DV CINEMA HOME (sometimes too bright), while staying color accurate (at Color Temp: W50).
I have this very annoying issue with my BX and my AVR Hartman Kardon. When the TV is turned on with the AVR input selected (last used), it automatically switches Sound to the Internal Speakers. I have to manually go and change it back HDMI ARC. Has anyone experienced a similar issue?
This didn't happen with the B8... and I don't recall this happening when I got the BX earlier this year.
This didn't happen with the B8... and I don't recall this happening when I got the BX earlier this year.
Happens to me whenever I change inputs. Super annoying. Why can't it just stay on HDMI ARC?
I always just assumed it completely disabled the dimming, and Vincent was just saying why they added it, and to basically read between the lines, it isn't something he would shout from the rooftops Imo, and direct possible wrath towards himself, with burn in rants :0
Can someone recommend me the best TruMotion settings? I've been using clear but some movies have very obvious and distracting artifacting. Having it off entirely, though, makes me feel sick. I don't mind the soap opera effect that much—could someone tell me the best user settings for a middle ground with the least artifacting but the least stutter?
