Thanks. What additional burn-in measures? I haven't heard these mentioned, and I'm assuming you're not talking about Logo Luminance Adjustment.
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2019-2022 LG and Sony OLEDs calibration and general settings
- Thread starter da1eb7150
- Start date
Yeah, it's visible in The Witness, another contrast heavy game. The picture quality of the CX versus my former Sony X900E is significant (better blacks, contrast, colours) but the LCD only had minor dirty screen effect whereas this is more noticeable and affects the entire screen.
EvilBoris I have been getting mixed responses over an AVS, should I readjust the HDR with HGIG on? Some were saying to adjust the system level HDR with HGIG off and then turn it on. Some were saying turn on HGIG and run the calibration with it on.
You need to calibrate with it on if you plan on using it. Likewise if you have DTM Off you have to calibrate for that mode
Perfect, thanks. The first two steps seem to go from barely visible to the block being white in about 1-2 ticks, the third step (blacks) seems to have a much finer line between visible and pure black.
Set it at the tick where it has just gone as this means that you are at peak white
So you have to select the box where you no longer see the logo?
I'm not sure if anyone will be able to help with this due to panel variance and settings differences, but on PC Mode + Game Mode, with a 90 Contrast, 50 Color, 2.2 Gamma, and the rest default (SDR), where would 100 nits and 120 nits OLED Light roughly fall? I'm currently at 25 for what I believe is close to 100 nits. This is a LG OLED48CX.
Just had a worrying situation with my new LG C9.
I have the PS4 Pro connected to HDMI 2. I switched it on earlier and I was just getting a blank screen. No notice that there was no signal. I switched HDMI ports and I could see the PS4. I went back to HDMI 2 and it was gone again. Changed HDMI cable to be sure, didn't fix it.
The strange thing is, I could see the PS4 picture when I went to the LG Home Dashboard where you can preview the picture in your various HDMI ports. But when I'd click on it there, same thing, black screen.
I did a factory reset and its working again. But I've lost my trust in the TV now and its only a month old.
I have the PS4 Pro connected to HDMI 2. I switched it on earlier and I was just getting a blank screen. No notice that there was no signal. I switched HDMI ports and I could see the PS4. I went back to HDMI 2 and it was gone again. Changed HDMI cable to be sure, didn't fix it.
The strange thing is, I could see the PS4 picture when I went to the LG Home Dashboard where you can preview the picture in your various HDMI ports. But when I'd click on it there, same thing, black screen.
I did a factory reset and its working again. But I've lost my trust in the TV now and its only a month old.
This is just a handshake issue imo. I've had it happen a couple times on my B7 (not in over a year). I wouldn't worry about it tbh. Prob didnt even need to factory reset. Just unplug for a few seconds so the TV reboots.
Is this just for console? I just switched to a CX from a C8 and I just stuck the port my avr is plugged Into on the CX to pc mode so I've got uhd player, gaming pc as well as consoles.
Won't you lose some detail if you do that? In the calibration settings it says to set it so the logo is "almost invisible" compared to the background.
I wish there was a middle ground for lg oleds. As the one tick before it blends completely with white is nowhere near "almost invisible" but the tick after is completely invisible.
Is this a pick your poison scenario?
Option 1: If you go one tick before invisible you won't fully utilize your TVs peak hdr brightness because the logo in the calibration settings is nowhere near "almost invisible". But you'll save detail from being blown out.
Option 2: you set it to invisible white and can't see logo. You now are utilizing your TVs peak brightness. But now you've blown out some details.
Is this a case where you believe it's better to have brighter hdr and lose some details?
I've been keeping it one tick away from being completely invisible as that's what the settings suggest to do. I know I'm missing some peak brightness because the logo is still very easy to see and not almost invisible. Which sucks. I wish there were more stages of brightening the logo. :/
Is anyone getting lag when connecting the C9 to a PC via HDMI?
In my case it seems like there is always a noticeable delay between the audio coming from my PC sound setup and the image on the tv.
I set the HDMI label to PC and also made sure to deactivate all of the processing stuff, but still the same results.
In my case it seems like there is always a noticeable delay between the audio coming from my PC sound setup and the image on the tv.
I set the HDMI label to PC and also made sure to deactivate all of the processing stuff, but still the same results.
OP
OP
I'd like to know this too as Forza horizon 4 on the xbox is like this 800 is invisible 700 is quite visible
Not sure what you mean exactly, but downsampling has the same performance since the game renders still at 4K. Not sure if ps4 pro supports this, I always thought ps4 just outputs 1080p or 4K but not 4K downsampled.
How do I solve my imminent lack of HDMI ports? I'm about to fill them all up once my PC gets built and I'll need one more for the PS5 in the winter.
Right now it's:
HDMI 1 - Apple TV 4K
HDMI 2 - eARC to Sonos Arc (this isn't gonna get changed)
HDMI 3 - PC (has to be direct for G-Sync)
HDMI 4 - Switch
Now here's the rub: I need any solution to be able to pass 5.1 LPCM, and I don't have any experience with HDMI splitters so I have no idea if they mess with anything in that regard.
Any insights?
Right now it's:
HDMI 1 - Apple TV 4K
HDMI 2 - eARC to Sonos Arc (this isn't gonna get changed)
HDMI 3 - PC (has to be direct for G-Sync)
HDMI 4 - Switch
Now here's the rub: I need any solution to be able to pass 5.1 LPCM, and I don't have any experience with HDMI splitters so I have no idea if they mess with anything in that regard.
Any insights?
OP
OP
Probs just gonna have to juggle that 4th port between the switch and PS5
How do you do it, exactly? Just need a laptop and the color meter or whatever it's called? Or could you run a long usb cable extension to a desk top and run this software?
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get am hdmi switch for switch/PS4. Your setup is similar to mine with cable box, Sonos beam and Apple TV on 1,2 and 3. My hdmi switch is on 4 for going between ps4, switch and shield.
I don't see why you can't use a desktop. Should work. I followed this.
LG OLED 2019 Calibration SDR with CalMAN Home
Tyler Pruitt, Technical Evangelist at Portrait Displays, demonstrates how to calibrate a 2019 LG C9 OLED for BT.709 SDR content using CalMAN Home for LG. Dur...
youtu.be
You think it was worth it? Cause that is stupidly expensive. I'm not comfortable with spending that kind of cash cause I think things are about to get REALLY bad.I don't see why you can't use a desktop. Should work. I followed this.
They have a separate video to follow for SDR, HDR and DV. You need a USB stick, calman home for lg ($145, if using oled), a computer and a colorimeter. I used the i1 display pro plus ($300). I followed the video exactly and honestly it was super easy.LG OLED 2019 Calibration SDR with CalMAN Home
Tyler Pruitt, Technical Evangelist at Portrait Displays, demonstrates how to calibrate a 2019 LG C9 OLED for BT.709 SDR content using CalMAN Home for LG. Dur...
The reason I ask is cause I feel like my C9 is too dark in some scenes. I've been playing Ghost of Tsushima and when I go inside houses when it's dark out, I can't see shit. So I have a setting wrong some where. Meanwhile my Samsung ks7000 upstairs doesn't have that issue at all. Even super dark scenes have a lot of detail.
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With a C9 it's probably not worth it honestly. The B9 which I have was rated pretty poorly out of the box by rtings. The C9 is rated much better. Even now after living with the calibration and switching between ISF dark (calibrated) and technicolor (not calibrated) it's not a huge difference. It probably wasn't even worth the money on my b9. I haven't noticed any difference in ghost of Tsushima being any brighter post calibration. It gets pretty dark inside houses sometimes.
I wonder if there's any way to rent / borrow a colorimeter. I feel like in that case it may be worth the $145 for calman home software to perform the calibration.
So you're having the darkness issue too? Now I feel a bit better.
What settings are you guys using for add content? I feel like mine is a bit too bright so I thought about lowering the OLED setting from the default 60 to something else.
EvilBoris - sorry to bother you, sir. Is there a generic list of settings for Xbox one X and PS4 Pro that you recommend for HDR, and typically settings forSDR content via an Apple TV or Blu-ray player?
EvilBoris - sorry to bother you, sir. Is there a generic list of settings for Xbox one X and PS4 Pro that you recommend for HDR, and typically settings forSDR content via an Apple TV or Blu-ray player?
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I'll probably wind up doing this, manually switching the input between my PS5 and the Switch. I guess it also depends on how often the PS5 can go above 60 FPS since any potential switch I get will cap it.
For SDR, it depends on how bright is your room, but if you're in a dark/pretty dim room you can try around 30 OLED Light, which is approx 100 nits, the standard for mastering SDR content. HDR always have to be left at the default value.
Rest, the usual, Color 50, Brightness 50, Contrast 90 (or was it 85?), Warm 2, Sharpness 0. no enchancement added, HGIG for Tone Mapping...
Thanks, I appreciate it. Default at 60 seemed NUTS.
Isn't there some fuckery with the PS4 pro and setting as limited and full or am I miss remembering?
For the HGIG for tone mapping, does that adjust automatically for Dolby vision content?
Yeah with the LG OLEDs and the PS4 you need to manually set it either Full or Limited, Auto is borked.
Dolby Vision doesn't have any Tone Mapping mode because Dolby Vision tonemaps by itself with the metadata, so yeah no need to worry about that for DV.
Awesome, thanks.
For full or limited, is there a difference? What's the corresponding setting in the LG? Black level, right?
There isn't.Limited/Low, Full/High... I personally have Limited/Low because console games are mastered in 4:2:0 anyways. If you use PC then Full though.
hello what are your hdr settings in the game for the last of us part 2?
I am on tv oled c9 settings in the game by default contrast 0 and brightness 0 and I find the blacks blocked when it is dark we do not see anything the blacks are burnt I specify that I am in HGIG in hdr game mode.
thank you so much
I am on tv oled c9 settings in the game by default contrast 0 and brightness 0 and I find the blacks blocked when it is dark we do not see anything the blacks are burnt I specify that I am in HGIG in hdr game mode.
thank you so much
Quick question.
I have my PS4 pro all set up and calibrated but want to use the same settings for my other devices.
Does 'use these settings for all inputs' just copy the current settings to the other hdmi ports?
Also, since the Pro is the only one using hdr, I just need to be on the pro main menu (sdr content) and then copy the settings and be done?
I have my PS4 pro all set up and calibrated but want to use the same settings for my other devices.
Does 'use these settings for all inputs' just copy the current settings to the other hdmi ports?
Also, since the Pro is the only one using hdr, I just need to be on the pro main menu (sdr content) and then copy the settings and be done?
Having some annoying issues with the smart remote. I simply want to use the remote buttons (up, down, left, right) and click the scroll wheel to select things. For some reason, the remote has become completely unresponsive until I use the scroll wheel to activate the smart remote. At this point, I am able to use the remote like a mouse, but STILL, the regular old buttons don't work for me. I've used the back+home button trick to reset & resync the controller, but I cannot figure out how to get the basic buttons to work again.
God it took forever for me to figure out how to turn on gsync for my 1650 Super graphics card. Nowhere in the instructions does it say Instant Game Mode has to be enabled
Haven't seen that issue. Try swapping out the batteries?