Still waiting on the card from NVIDiA , which might not get here until Friday
Still waiting on the card from NVIDiA , which might not get here until Friday
Still waiting on the card from NVIDiA , which might not get here until Friday
You should be able to use 4K 120hz with 4:2:0 chroma on your current GPU.I have my CX for a while now and I am still confused if I can do 4K 120hz on my PC?
Also are 4K and HDR not possible? Or just no 4K HDR and 120hz.
I read things, I don't understand things, help me get things please!
Ah yeah, I've been using my gt1060 so far and can do 4K 120hz 422 HDR no sweat.Ah, Fair enough. Thought I saw mention of preliminary testing somewhere.
Wait what how?Ah yeah, I've been using my gt1060 so far and can do 4K 120hz 422 HDR no sweat.
There are some quirks and errors (sparklies) I have run into, but nothing that has ruined things
Wait which tv do you have a c9 or CX? And what is the name of the adapter again?Ah yeah, I've been using my gt1060 so far and can do 4K 120hz 422 HDR no sweat.
There are some quirks and errors (sparklies) I have run into, but nothing that has ruined things
I've got a C9. The adapter is the CAC-1085Wait which tv do you have a c9 or CX? And what is the name of the adapter again?
For the second thing, was it like, weird frame skip that happens randomly every 5 minutes? If so, it's the "live plus" setting that reports user data. If you turn it off it goes away. Disabling internet stops that setting from working, so thats why that works too.Sometimes when playing through Steam's Big Picture Mode, both my C9 (secondary display) and monitor both cut to black screen although the computer is running. I think the culprit is G-Sync especially since my monitor isnt G-Sync compatible. Anyone else have this issue?
Secondly I had this weird flicker when also using the C9 as a display but it went away when I removed all internet connectivity from the TV which is rather odd.
I've just bought a b9 for the bedroom I have a c9 downstairs I had them side by side playing the same footage and I can safely say the difference in brightness is not even an argument you can barely tell. The b9 will receive the same updates as the C9The C9 is better but they're pretty comparable. The biggest difference is the B9 is significantly dimmer, slightly worse near-black performance, and will likely receive updates later and less frequently than the C9.
Both support full HDMI 2.1 at 48gb/s.
I personally think it's worth it to spend a few hundred more for the C9, for the increased brightness alone, but you can't go wrong with either.
I thought it was a significant difference, but to each their own. Measurements show a pretty large difference as well. That doesn't mean it will be noticeable to everyone though.I've just bought a b9 for the bedroom I have a c9 downstairs I had them side by side playing the same footage and I can safely say the difference in brightness is not even an argument you can barely tell. The b9 will receive the same updates as the C9
Probably still worth it since you will be able to try Autocal and if you don't like the result you can still use the same software just in manual mode( just will have to reset mode you calibrating for each input you are going to use or do a complete factory reset to clear all at once ). You basically just select different workflow and follow instructions. You can try using open source software or alternatives but that's another can of worms imo.
Issues i had with Autocal include completely messed up 3D LUT for no obvious reason in SDR multiple times( once i assume it messed up because i used too many data points to take measures from... not sure, result was super darkened image, second time it was complete mystery to me and colors were just whacked all around ), for HDR Autocal leaves a tiny green tint for grayscale even if all the graphs show almost perfect results with tiny delta error(dE) and also messed up skin colors( or rather complete desaturation of skin tones.... people were looking like corpses in the morgue ), also had crushed blacks for no obvious reason either, so had to re-do calibration once again.
Manual is the way to go, but Auto still worth trying i think... maybe issues i had are some kind of quirks of my setup, meter etc etc etc. Though there are quite a few complaints about it on AVSForum as well.
Wait wait... why you stopped at just game mode calibration? I don't remember saying anything about only calibrating game mode :)Just as a little update, I finally bit the bullet and purchased CALMAN Home; much as you said, it was worth it as (at least according to the pre-calibration measurements) the dE of the game mode was off the charts; I was cautious to follow your advice and only apply it to game mode; the yellow tint is gone without introducing any of the nuclear blue that I hate so much, and I still have the accurate enough expert presets untouched for movies, etc.
For HDR just wanted to confirm with you guys, is it normal to have such a reduction in peak brightness after calibration? initial measurements were in the range of 780 nits initially vs the 690 nits Calman reports after calibration; I guess this is the tradeoff of moving the white point to its correct value, but still it is quite the difference.
Did I make a mistake by not running autocal AFTER disabling the autodimming features from the service menu (I don't have access to it so I guess I would need to purchase a remote then).
Wait wait... why you stopped at just game mode calibration? I don't remember saying anything about only calibrating game mode :)
You probably should do the same for Expert Dark just with 2.4 or BT.1886 gamma for SDR movies and apps and HDR Cinema too.
Don't worry about auto dimming stuff, it supposed to show itself at 100% white full field or close to it and i have yet to see it in action. When you calibrating you only should use 10% window and that is sustained( well reasonable amount of time at least ) so peak brightness measures should be correct and your 690nits for Game mode sound about right( i think HDR10 Game and Dolby Vision Game mode do not use Peak Brightness display capability that's why their readings are a bit lower ), HDR Cinema should be a bit brighter ~710-740 nits.
You followed Portrait Displays youtube tutorials right?
I have the exact same issue. Please let me know if you find a solution. I may be able to make a 25ft cable reach so that's the next thing I'll try. I'm using a normal hdmi though, no optical.EvilBoris, have you seen anyone use the CAC-1085 with a long distance optical HDMI 2.1 cable? I'm attempting to use mine to go 50 feet from a 2080TI to my C9, and the image cuts in and out several times before ultimately failing. I haven't had time to do serious digging into the issue yet, but so far it seems to happen regardless of the resolution and refresh rate I set. The cable works fine at 4k60HDR coming straight out of the 2080TI, yet fails under the same circumstance with the CAC-1085. Looking at the avsforum C9 gaming discussion, I haven't seen anyone try and use such a cable with it.
To be clear, this is the cable I'm using.
Is Ghost of Tsushima just messed up in terms of contrast or do I have some settings wrong? There are moments in the initial sequence where you're sneaking through a town at night where it legitimately felt like I could barely see things.
Hard to say without knowing the settings you have. And since GOT releases tomorrow, might be a bit of a wait until more people have it.
Here's all the relevant settings I'm using for the HDR Game Mode:
OLED Light 100
Contrast 100
Brightness 50
Colour 55
Dynamic Contrast/Tone Mapping Off
Gamma 2.2
White Balance Warm 2
Black Level Low (PS4 on Limited)
Am I doing something wrong here?
But, yeah, might have to wait for some more impressions as well. Someone else in the OT agrees with me, though, so might be a game issue (or intentional art design thing, perhaps).
Are you using an HDMI 2.1 cable? I wasn't aware that there was such a thing as a non-optical HDMI 2.1 cable at that length.I have the exact same issue. Please let me know if you find a solution. I may be able to make a 25ft cable reach so that's the next thing I'll try. I'm using a normal hdmi though, no optical.
I found a setting that so far has eliminated the issue for me at the moment, General > Additional Settings > Advertising Cookies > Off.For the second thing, was it like, weird frame skip that happens randomly every 5 minutes? If so, it's the "live plus" setting that reports user data. If you turn it off it goes away. Disabling internet stops that setting from working, so thats why that works too.
Man they really ruined the fireworks screensaver by adding text on the c9. Who the fuck thought that was a good idea?
Same for me. Infamous Second Son was the same way. That game is super dark. I think it's just how Sucker Punch likes it.Is Ghost of Tsushima just messed up in terms of contrast or do I have some settings wrong? There are moments in the initial sequence where you're sneaking through a town at night where it legitimately felt like I could barely see things.
Digital Foundry noted that the HDR is very contrasty.Is Ghost of Tsushima just messed up in terms of contrast or do I have some settings wrong? There are moments in the initial sequence where you're sneaking through a town at night where it legitimately felt like I could barely see things.
Is Ghost of Tsushima just messed up in terms of contrast or do I have some settings wrong? There are moments in the initial sequence where you're sneaking through a town at night where it legitimately felt like I could barely see things.
Sounds like OLED black crush.So I just got this TV today and after using the settings at rtings, I fired through a few games to test it out, as well as Netflix. COD Warzone looks just fine to me, and the "game" preset is actually really insane as far as input lag goes. The screen alone has me hitting more of my shots which is hilarious to me. Anyways, with both TLOU2 (HDR on for PS4) and 4K Netflix, the black colors are VERY black. The scenes overall are extremely dark and even after messing around the settings, it's still an issue. Is this a common occurrence? I saw some stuff online that it takes time for this effect to go away ... how valid is that?
You should check brightness patterns in a dark room while playing from USB drive for both SDR and HDR.So I just got this TV today and after using the settings at rtings, I fired through a few games to test it out, as well as Netflix. COD Warzone looks just fine to me, and the "game" preset is actually really insane as far as input lag goes. The screen alone has me hitting more of my shots which is hilarious to me. Anyways, with both TLOU2 (HDR on for PS4) and 4K Netflix, the black colors are VERY black. The scenes overall are extremely dark and even after messing around the settings, it's still an issue. Is this a common occurrence? I saw some stuff online that it takes time for this effect to go away ... how valid is that?
I've tried now with a 2m cable, and the CAC-1085 is working fine. Weirdly, it initially wanted to run in 4096x2160, and trying to set it to the native resolution of 3840x2160 resulted in bars on the left and right.EvilBoris, have you seen anyone use the CAC-1085 with a long distance optical HDMI 2.1 cable? I'm attempting to use mine to go 50 feet from a 2080TI to my C9, and the image cuts in and out several times before ultimately failing. I haven't had time to do serious digging into the issue yet, but so far it seems to happen regardless of the resolution and refresh rate I set. The cable works fine at 4k60HDR coming straight out of the 2080TI, yet fails under the same circumstance with the CAC-1085. Looking at the avsforum C9 gaming discussion, I haven't seen anyone try and use such a cable with it.
To be clear, this is the cable I'm using.
OLEDs have no problem with black detail at all if they're configured correctly.So wait. I was about to pick up a cx or c9 and now I'm seeing oled kind of sucks for black detail. So no matter what oled will crush blacks, or it wont if i keep changing the settings based on the game? Is this true? If so i might just go with the best lcd out there instead.
So wait. I was about to pick up a cx or c9 and now I'm seeing oled kind of sucks for black detail. So no matter what oled will crush blacks, or it wont if i keep changing the settings based on the game? Is this true? If so i might just go with the best lcd out there instead.
Oof this guy clearly has incorrect black level settings. Happened to me by accident when I configured HDR settings but forgot to A-Z my SDR settings and had incorrect black level.
65” LG C9 OLED - PS4 Pro - Best Game mode Picture Settings (CX)
Please comment, like, share (twitter/facebook) and subscribe to help my channel grow and assist me in making more videos to entertain you.If you have any sug...youtu.be
Is this a good video to follow for setting?
Omg I think you might have fixed my issue with this! I would get the frame skip at least every 5-6 minutes and it was incredibly annoying. Haven't seen it since when gaming.I was noticing a weird frameskip occasionally happening every 5-10 minutes while gaming. At first I thought the game was just glitching, but Ive seen it in multiple games. Checking capture footage shows no issue, so it's def the TV. Did a bit of googling and apparently it's because of the live plus option being enabled. (General, additional settings, live plus). I turned it off and so far so good, fingers crossed. Anyone else notice this?
Yeah so glad this works. I was incredibly disappointed when I noticed the glitch.Omg I think you might have fixed my issue with this! I would get the frame skip at least every 5-6 minutes and it was incredibly annoying. Haven't seen it since when gaming.
OLEDs have no problem with black detail at all if they're configured correctly.
Can you see all squares on your OLEDs, especially 1 through 5? http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.phpIt's not that, the guy's videos are all about how much LG OLED sucks. With no professional tools to back that up, of course.
I can see/differentiate all the squares starting at 1 from the absolute black background perfectly with my c9.Can you see all squares on your OLEDs, especially 1 through 5? http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php
Yes.Can you see all squares on your OLEDs, especially 1 through 5? http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php
Looks like it.LMAO did I just see someone unironically share a QUANTUM TV video? Comeon guys
Am I supposed to know who that is? Was just the first video on the subject in search engines.LMAO did I just see someone unironically share a QUANTUM TV video? Comeon guys
That's good to know.I can see/differentiate all the squares starting at 1 from the absolute black background perfectly with my c9.
So if one can't spend hundreds of euros/dollars they won't have properly calibrated OLED and won't see them?Yes.
Like I said, any properly calibrated OLED will display these just fine.
I havent had my OLED professionally calibrated and I can see all the squares.Am I supposed to know who that is? Was just the first video on the subject in search engines.
That's good to know.
So if one can't spend hundreds of euros/dollars they won't have properly calibrated OLED and won't see them?
I don't mean professionally calibrated. I meant don't apply straight up stupid and objectively incorrect settings and you'll be fine.So if one can't spend hundreds of euros/dollars they won't have properly calibrated OLED and won't see them?