No banding at all disabling YCC 4:2:2 on X1X video options. I extensively tested this.
No banding at all disabling YCC 4:2:2 on X1X video options. I extensively tested this.
Turn off dynamic tonemapping off and instead use hgigFinally, thanks to these holiday days, I was able to begin Red Dead 2. On the C9 with the HDR 'game' preset found inside the menu, the game looks very bright and accurate. However, I'm not sure about the settings: the ones of the first page of this thread seems a bit extreme and I can clearly see vanish the sky detail in the test image. Can anyone playing RDR2 with the C8 or the C9 suggest me the correct HDR settings?
BTW, even if this thread is for the 7 series users, I find it extremely useful for the gaming use of the LG OLEDs; that's because of this that I continue to ask things here! Thank you all!
Some guy on AVSForum is claiming HDR Game in PC Mode have forced Wide Gamut?
I was able to put it on Auto on my 55B7V, exactly as shown here at minute 10:21:
Were you also able to?
Weird...
I don't know if it is the best thing to do for some games. For example, Red Dead 2 with HGIG looks worse and dim with respect to the use of Dynamic Tone Mapping. Maybe the games need a specific patch in order to take advantage of the HGIG.
See it myself in Witcher 3 as I type this. The sky at night bands really badly in PC, and not really at all otherwise.No banding at all disabling YCC 4:2:2 on X1X video options. I extensively tested this.
Strange. I'm not using pc and I have horrible banding during the day in the skybox. It's everywhere. I can't play the game it's so bad. It's the entire reason I bought it on switch.See it myself in Witcher 3 as I type this. The sky at night bands really badly in PC, and not really at all otherwise.
See it myself in Witcher 3 as I type this. The sky at night bands really badly in PC, and not really at all otherwise.
Yeah, could be game relate at this point, as 4:2:0 HDR in PC Mode should be identical to 4:2:0 outside of PC Mode, banding wise.Strange. I'm not using pc and I have horrible banding during the day in the skybox. It's everywhere. I can't play the game it's so bad. It's the entire reason I bought it on switch.
That's how hgig works it maps to the displays peak brightness so you dont lose any detail dynamic tone mapping will brighten but you will lose detail it's all what you would rather have an accurate picture with hgig(Sony and ms have signed up to this) or a brighter less accurate pictureI don't know if it is the best thing to do for some games. For example, Red Dead 2 with HGIG looks worse and dim with respect to the use of Dynamic Tone Mapping. Maybe the games need a specific patch in order to take advantage of the HGIG.
EvilBoris I saw that you are an expert of HDR analisis in games. What do you think about the HGIG vs. Dynamic Tone Mapping on the newer LG? Specifically with Red Dead 2 on the One X I find the HDR picture too dim with HGIG enabled, but maybe it's the right way it should be displayed.
Thank you in advance for your clarification!
Look at the clouds in forza horizon 4 drone mode and switch between dtm on and off and hgig you will see hgig shows the most detailI don't know if it is the best thing to do for some games. For example, Red Dead 2 with HGIG looks worse and dim with respect to the use of Dynamic Tone Mapping. Maybe the games need a specific patch in order to take advantage of the HGIG.
EvilBoris I saw that you are an expert of HDR analisis in games. What do you think about the HGIG vs. Dynamic Tone Mapping on the newer LG? Specifically with Red Dead 2 on the One X I find the HDR picture too dim with HGIG enabled, but maybe it's the right way it should be displayed.
Thank you in advance for your clarification!
No as game mode is calibrated differently medium is the way to go
You can apply the same identical settings to Cinema or Cinema Home, then enable RealCinema and also TruMotion with De-Judder and De-Blur set to your liking.Can you please recommend some Dolby Vision settings for either Cinema or Cinema Home for us "few" that likes to apply a small amount of motion handling. Finding Game Mode a little too jittery personally. Thanks
That's what's recommended for game mode but each to their own
Your on a 7 series anyway so it would be different to my c9
just confirming - same settings as you used in Dolby Vision - Game?You can apply the same identical settings to Cinema or Cinema Home, then enable RealCinema and also TruMotion with De-Judder and De-Blur set to your liking.
Sorry for bringing this up again but in the calibration sheets for WebOS settings there obviously isn't an input type as it's meant for the TV itself but what input do you recommend for those of us using external devices?For movie watching only sources (Apple TV, webOS, Blu Ray player) the HDR Technicolor + Active HDR is still recommended instead.
Yes.just confirming - same settings as you used in Dolby Vision - Game?
The USB stick will only update the DV Cinema EOTF, it will not alter the other DV presets.If i reset my DV profiles, will it get rid of the settings that changed when I loaded that file from the USB stick?
Im not currently happy with those DV settings as they are too dark for my taste.
I see they changed again in the front page and there is no mention of that file and now you suggest to use the game preset for all DV content?
great thank youYes.
Those are the calibrated general DV settings that can be applied also to all other DV presets.
Be aware that DV Cinema will be the dimmest preset, and DV Cinema Home may have some bugs in some scene or transitions (raised blacks or white flashes).
The USB stick will only update the DV Cinema EOTF, it will not alter the other DV presets.
DV Cinema will still look too dim most of the time, and if you want to totally reset it to before the USB patch you need to factory reset the TV.
This is not actually necessary anyway, because DV Game preset will directly offer a better PQ and you just need switch to it and apply the recommended settings.
Even if not directly mentioned, the webOS settings are suitable and recommended for all internal/external inputs focused on movies and TV only.Sorry for bringing this up again but in the calibration sheets for WebOS settings there obviously isn't an input type as it's meant for the TV itself but what input do you recommend for those of us using external devices?
Many thanks.
There are no stupid questions... ;)Why is it that the cinema DV Cinema profile is so much darker than DV game even with the same settings? I understand this is probably stupid to ask, but i thought i would ask the expect :)
Are you referring to internal speakers?I was wondering if anyone here has tweaked their sound settings? I find that music and sound effects in movies tend to be a lot louder than voice.
Thank you.Are you referring to internal speakers?
I set mine to Standard audio mode + Surround, then enabled Dolby Atmos and also Smart Sound feature, and it sounds good (for what those speakers are).
Try also using the sound calibration screen (with the magic remote) and prefer the bass preset.
Hi, I felt I needed to create an account just to show my appreciation for the time and effort you put into this thread. I have a 55C7 myself since mid 2018 and your settings has been a really good reference for my set. It's a really nice feeling being able to squeeze out more juice from the panel. Im currently using your new DV-settings with game mode and it works really good. A big thanks! But I do see that my gamut is also forced to wide in PC mode using PS4 in HDR. So I actually switched back to regular console game mode. I also noticed a lot more banding on PC mode playing Death Stranding, especially the sky, loading menus etc. Why do you think the gamut is forced wide for some people but not you? And why is the banding more obvious for some people? I find it strange. Thank you for your time!Different people also on Reddit are reporting the forced "Wide" gamut on HDR Game within PC Mode.
This is another very weird behaviour of PC Mode as in the past (and as per the video above) I was able to manually change Wide to Auto gamut in HDR Game also in PC Mode.
If you are able to change the HDR Game gamut to Auto in PC Mode you're fine trying Option 2b, otherwise if you have forced Wide you can lower its Color value to 44 to compensate.
Anyway, for this reason, Option 1 for SDR and Option 1b for HDR are back as the "safe" Recommended presets for gaming.
I can assure you I was able to select Auto Gamut in HDR Game while inside PC Input/Mode in the past, but it seems it's not possible anymore with newer firmware...Hi, I felt I needed to create an account just to show my appreciation for the time and effort you put into this thread. I have a 55C7 myself since mid 2018 and your settings has been a really good reference for my set. It's a really nice feeling being able to squeeze out more juice from the panel. Im currently using your new DV-settings with game mode and it works really good. A big thanks! But I do see that my gamut is also forced to wide in PC mode using PS4 in HDR. So I actually switched back to regular console game mode. I also noticed a lot more banding on PC mode playing Death Stranding, especially the sky, loading menus etc. Why do you think the gamut is forced wide for some people but not you? And why is the banding more obvious for some people? I find it strange. Thank you for your time!
Yes I did all that in the settings of my PS4 Pro. I have been reading almost every post in this thread :) I have selected these settings but I still see banding. I can take a picture if you want?I can assure you I was able to select Auto Gamut in HDR Game while inside PC Input/Mode in the past, but it seems it's not possible anymore with newer firmware...
You did good to roll-back with Game Console input and Option 1b as the preferred solution, as I also corrected this recommendation in the docs.
Regarding color banding, this can be fixed in PC Mode only forcing RGB Limited 4:4:4 or YUV 4:2:0 in SDR and YUV 4:2:0 in HDR.
This because 4:2:2 is bugged and won't work well with PC Input, therefore for removing banding you need to select Resolution: 2160p YUV420 on PS4 Pro video options and uncheck YCC 422 on X1X.
This in not necessary outside PC Mode.
Don't worry, no need for pics ;)Yes I did all that in the settings of my PS4 Pro. I have been reading almost every post in this thread :) I have selected these settings but I still see banding. I can take a picture if you want?
I'm on 05.80.35 and there is no other updates available. I'm located in Sweden. I don't own an X1X, I only use my PS4 for gaming. :)Don't worry, no need for pics ;)
What TV firmware are you running?
On X1X the banding of PC Mode and outside PC Mode unchecking 4:2:2 option is same, and if this is not the case on PS4 Pro even forcing 4:2:0 I think it would be an additional reason to stick back with Option 1 for SDR and Option 1b for HDR.
Ok, definitively an additional bug then.I'm on 05.80.35 and there is no other updates available. I'm located in Sweden. I don't own an X1X, I only use my PS4 for gaming. :)
Yes I already have these new settings! Looks really good. Thank you so much :) I'll keep following this thread is there is any updates etc.Ok, definitively an additional bug then.
Stick with Option 1 (SDR) and Option 1b (HDR) then, I also did a very small tweak to the second. Let me know if it's better this way ;)
As stated in the docs, outside PC Mode (therefore using any HDMI Input Icon/Label + SDR/HDR Game Modes) you can set all PS4 Pro Video Options to Auto except RGB, which should always be "RGB Limited" with these TVs.Yes I already have these new settings! Looks really good. Thank you so much :) I'll keep following this thread is there is any updates etc.
Btw did you use resolution: 2160p YUV420 or auto for game mode? I have set RGB to limited.
Yeah, Spider-Man seems to have a very dim HDR implementation by default.Using Option 1b for PS4 as well as Xbox, anyone noticed how dark spider man is ? Wondering if it is just the game or not, I had up the in game brightness to 90
If you want to squeeze out the best from HDR Game mode always remember to adjust these fixed in-game HDR sliders:
This should fix any dimness issue for the profile even without using Dynamic Contrast, but you can still leave it on Medium and using Option 1b settings to make it look accurate for extra brightness.
- Peak HDR Brightness: 4.000 (or Maxed out)
- Paper White: 200
- White Point: 0.90
- Black Point: 0.02
- Contrast: Default
Hopefully more and more games will have most of those sliders, or Xbox will natively implement it in its video settings as PS4 Pro did.
Just don't forget the correct values ;)
W45 matches warm 2 more accurately than w50 in my opinion.Small changes to v8.1 profiles:
- Color Temp slider for all supported presets back to "W50" to 1:1 match the "Warm2" and D65 accurate color temperature and white balance;
- Added the description to use Dynamic Contrast: LOW for "better Accuracy" in Option 1b + note to bring back Brightness value from 51 to 50 when using DC: LOW instead of MEDIUM.
Not by CalMAN "HDR Game" calibration's results (done on a 55B7V):
Not by CalMAN "HDR Game" calibration's results (done on a 55B7V):
HDR Game preset (Default/Stock) pre-calibration:
HDR Game preset after calibration (Option 1b):
and for reference
HDR Cinema preset (which HDR Game is based from) after calibration:
Paid Professional calibration of all main profiles, and the chart with HDR Cinema calibration includes WB and CMS adjustments.Where did you get these from? Who did the measurements?
Did you mean Not my HDR Game calibration results?
You do realize that your "pre cal" chart vs your "calibrated chart" for HDR Game does not move like that when no white balance pts are changed. Which is why I asked who did the measurements because that is not something that can be changed without 2pt and 20pt just changing general settings. Which your settings are. Calibration doesn't work like that. If your pre is what you posted, you cannot get a grayscale like that without changing coordinates. You can only change coordinates with wb controls....
What site did you get them from? Source is what I'm looking for. I would assume they adjusted in service menu. Because no change to just standard settings make that change to grayscale. Period.Paid Professional calibration of all main profiles, and the chart with HDR Cinema calibration includes WB and CMS adjustments.
As you can clearly see, even with general settings only (with no possibility to change WB/CMS on 2017 series) the provided "Option 1b" values for HDR Game are actually very accurate and very comparable to calibrated HDR Cinema (which is considered the most accurate HDR preset by most, together with HDR Technicolor), with very low DeltaE and all accurate colors in place even using Low and Medium Dynamic Contrast.
I'm also adding these on the first post.
Cheers,
P
While on the subject of calibrating, how hard is it for someone to get into calibrating (for personal use) with a budget colorimeter? Would I be able to get solid results with just an i1Display Pro, or would I need a that new i1Display Pro Plus (which states it has better support for HDR displays?). Would the cheaper, yet new, i1Display Studio be sufficient?
What software would I need for calibrating TVs since my TVs can't store calibration profiles generated from the software, obviously. I take it I would need to display some test patterns on the TV and manually make adjustments manually right?
What site did you get them from? Source is what I'm looking for. I would assume they adjusted in service menu. Because no change to just standard settings make that change to grayscale. Period.
If you actually had a meter and measured you would know this.
changing color adjust saturation of color. Brightness video black, contrast peak white. Etc etc. It will not fully adjust grayscale. Need WB controls. What's the source?
It's exactly this type of stuff that was having multiple users go in on you in the AVS calibration thread and why I assume you didn't post your small update there as you normally do lol.
Seriously man...get a meter
It was an in-place calibration.What site did you get them from? Source is what I'm looking for. I would assume they adjusted in service menu. Because no change to just standard settings make that change to grayscale. Period.
If you actually had a meter and measured you would know this.
changing color adjust saturation of color. Brightness video black, contrast peak white. Etc etc. It will not fully adjust grayscale. Need WB controls. What's the source?
It's exactly this type of stuff that was having multiple users go in on you in the AVS calibration thread and why I assume you didn't post your small update there as you normally do lol.
Seriously man...get a meter