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P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
I find v5.3.2 the best so far, even though I set color to 55 and temp at W15-20 at most. After that everything seems to yellow for me.

About the trumotion settings, is it possible to give more details or even better an example to test, of what exactly is wrong?
Sure, you can lower the Color Temp if you prefer, but trust me that the "yellow" your eyes see will fade very quickly as the eyes will adapt to new temperature (I would say 15-20 min of continuous watching in a dark room). If you are also using other devices with pre-calibrated displays (as iPhones, Surfaces, Galaxy S phones etc.) you would probably also see a temperature close to Warm 2 / W50 (as all are very close to D65 standard), therefore your eyes will be accustomed to watch similar color temp between screens, and you will not notice "yellow" or "blue" tints anymore.

About TruMotion: I noticed that after 5.80.xx firmware, 60hz movies (e.g. all contents from Netflix app) had a slightly worse motion handling compared to before, while 24hz movies (e.g. Blu-Rays) were fine, and this is an indicator that the Real Cinema option (created to improve motion) still works properly there. But on 60hz movies during camera panning (or slow moving objects) a new "ghosting" or judder artifact was noticeable, where objects seemed "double" and almost stuttered when moving.
Enabling TruMotion (but set both De-Judder and De-Blur to 0) fixed this motion issue without any soap opera effect or any other downside, and motion handling on 60hz movies got smooth with no ghosting/stutter again.

Judder or Ghosting during motion does not affect SDR/HDR Game Modes (even with the Real Cinema and TruMotion options disabled and greyed out), as Game profiles are already tweaked to handle contents up to 4K/HDR-DV @ 60fps-60hz smoothly at 21ms input lag without any visible motion artifact at all. And fortunately this has not changed with new firmware.
 

Marble

Banned
Nov 27, 2017
3,819
P40L0 Yeah you get used to it for sure, but if I switch back to W20 / Warm1 after that, I still like that a lot better.
 
OP
OP
P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
P40L0 Yeah you get used to it for sure, but if I switch back to W20 / Warm1 after that, I still like that a lot better.
No issues at all preferring a colder temperature to a warmer.
Just keep in mind that the colder you drift from W50, the less accurate the colors will be (compared to what content creators intended).
 
OP
OP
P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
P40L0 can you perhaps provide a colour setting for HDR Standard? I have tried all HDR modes for gaming with all mentioned settings but nothing comes close to HDR Standard. The added luminance is a massive step up in games like God of War and AC Origins. I want to use it so I'm settling on the colours now. Its currently at 62 + Auto, but some tints can get too bright for instance. Any tips or settings perhaps? Any other settings I should worry about?
If you want to use HDR Standard, I would suggest you at least to switch to PC Mode as there it will have Real Cinema and other post processing disabled, therefore with a slightly lower input lag (but still higher than HDR Game).
For settings, use OLED Light 100, Contrast 100, Brightness 49, Color 44 (as it will have forced Wide Gamut and no Dynamic Contrast there), Color Temp W50, Black Level Low. Everything else will be greyed out.
 

GReeeeN

Senior Analyst at GSD
Verified
Mar 6, 2018
329
P40L0 what colour setting would you apply to standard game mode (SDR) if we want a little more vibrancy without any oversaturating?
 
OP
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P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
P40L0 what colour setting would you apply to standard game mode (SDR) if we want a little more vibrancy without any oversaturating?
I think the suggested setting of Color 40 is already ok, as it's almost identical to SDR Technicolor Expert colors with the exeption of being already a bit more "vibrant" due to forced Wide Gamut vs Auto.

If you still want more pop, don't go more far than Color 45
 
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mdd45

Member
Nov 8, 2018
34
I think the suggested setting of Color 40 is already ok, as it's almost identical to SDR Technicolor Expert colors with the exeption of being already a bit more "vibrant" due to forced Wide Gamut vs Auto.

If you still want more pop, don't go more far than Color 45

Color 45 for me is the lowest and 50 is max for SDR depending on game. Currently i have color on 50. And temp W10-W15.
 

Ponchito

Member
Oct 28, 2017
2,222
Mexico City
  • Stealth HDR Game mode minor update up V5.3.2
  • Also updated all non-Game profiles enabling TruMotion with De-Judder: 0 + De-Blur: 0 to fix introduced motion stuttering on 60hz contents after firmware 5.80.xx (both SDR/HDR Game modes are not affected)
^^

Hey P40L0, with both TruMotion values at 0, wouldn't that be as if it were off? Since there's another Motion Pro value that is by default off.
 
OP
OP
P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
Hey P40L0, with both TruMotion values at 0, wouldn't that be as if it were off? Since there's another Motion Pro value that is by default off.
Nope, TruMotion Off and TruMotion with De-Judder/De-Blur at 0 have different effects on motion, as with the latter TruMotion will still add a minimum of post-processing compared to Off.
You can clearly notice its effects (and benefits) on 60hz contents as Netflix app.
 
OP
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P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
I heard maxed OLED is more likely to cause burn in?
Maxed OLED Light in HDR/DV is fine and what it should be, as luminance is not at peak all the time but only the specular highlights and always in different part of the screen.
SDR OLED Light should never be at 100, that's why it's suggested at Max 80 for SDR Game (as its a bit dimmer by default compared to other modes) and Max 70 for all the others.

That say, permanent burn in is really an extreme and rare eventuality with LG OLEDs, and could happen only if you watch 10 hours a day of CNN or other streams with static/fixed logo, repeating this for months. In a "normal" mixed usage scenario (let's say 2 hours movie + 2 hours gaming + 2 hour TV every day) it will never happen.
 

NoWayOut

Member
Oct 27, 2017
2,072
Quick question. If I want to watch Blu-ray or 4K Blu-ray HDR using the XBX, which profile from the OP should I use?
 
OP
OP
P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
Quick question. If I want to watch Blu-ray or 4K Blu-ray HDR using the XBX, which profile from the OP should I use?
You can use same settings and manual switch to webOS SDR and HDR profiles, or you can still use the suggested SDR/HDR Game profiles as they're now super close and you don't have to worry in switching modes anymore.

Your choice.

Personally I just leave X1X to calibrated SDR/HDR Game profiles for mixed usage and I'm pretty happy with latest settings.

Dolby Vision would not be an issue as now X1X will automatically trigger DV Cinema mode with same calibrated settings as webOS DV profile.
 

Railgun

Member
Oct 27, 2017
3,148
Australia
I love my C7 but the DTS/Dolby audio out bug is really killing the TV for me atm. For those unaware if you have a PS4 or Xbox set to Dolby or DTS instead of PCM and have external audio it will add a huge amount of lag. The delay is much worse in Dolby than DTS but it's still really bad in DTS. Only fix is to use PCM.

Do the 2017 models still have this issue? Assume it's a firmware problem, LG has acknowledged the issue for a year and a half now with no fix. Really poor support for such an expensive TV.
 
OP
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P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
I love my C7 but the DTS/Dolby audio out bug is really killing the TV for me atm. For those unaware if you have a PS4 or Xbox set to Dolby or DTS instead of PCM and have external audio it will add a huge amount of lag. The delay is much worse in Dolby than DTS but it's still really bad in DTS. Only fix is to use PCM.

Do the 2017 models still have this issue? Assume it's a firmware problem, LG has acknowledged the issue for a year and a half now with no fix. Really poor support for such an expensive TV.
Yes, but can be mostly fixed with:
  • On Console: Using Bitstream DTS instead of Dolby Digital or Dolby Atmos
  • On TV: Going to Audio properties, Audio Delay and set it to -5 (deselect Bypass)
This will hugely improve the delay, making it decent enough for movies lip-sync.
 

Railgun

Member
Oct 27, 2017
3,148
Australia
Yes, but can be mostly fixed with:
  • On Console: Using Bitstream DTS instead of Dolby Digital or Dolby Atmos
  • On TV: Going to Audio properties, Audio Delay and set it to -5 (deselect Bypass)
This will hugely improve the delay, making it decent enough for movies lip-sync.
I was using that setup for a while but the lipsyncing still bothered me. Like changing to PCM isn't a big deal it's just Dolby and DTS sound much better to me on my audio setup and it's frustrating I can't use it because of the TV. If it's affecting the new TV's as well I still have hope they'll fix it. I find it odd how they haven't fixed it though, must be a difficult fix considering all the support the TV has gotten otherwise. Kind of shocking it's not fixed in newer models.
 
OP
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P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
I was using that setup for a while but the lipsyncing still bothered me. Like changing to PCM isn't a big deal it's just Dolby and DTS sound much better to me on my audio setup and it's frustrating I can't use it because of the TV. If it's affecting the new TV's as well I still have hope they'll fix it. I find it odd how they haven't fixed it though, must be a difficult fix considering all the support the TV has gotten otherwise. Kind of shocking it's not fixed in newer models.
Yeah, it's a bit disappointing to say at least, but you can also try to disable Atmos post-processing also on TV side to further reduce delay.

Personally I just use a Razer Thresher Wireless Headset with native Xbox Wireless connection + enabling Dolby Atmos for Headphones on the console (purchased one time for both console + Windows 10), with no delay at all and superb audio quality.
 

GReeeeN

Senior Analyst at GSD
Verified
Mar 6, 2018
329
I was using that setup for a while but the lipsyncing still bothered me. Like changing to PCM isn't a big deal it's just Dolby and DTS sound much better to me on my audio setup and it's frustrating I can't use it because of the TV. If it's affecting the new TV's as well I still have hope they'll fix it. I find it odd how they haven't fixed it though, must be a difficult fix considering all the support the TV has gotten otherwise. Kind of shocking it's not fixed in newer models.

Why not just run an optical cable directly from your console into the AV Receiver for DTS?. I had the exact same issue when running my PC > TV > AVR (my PS4 is actually fine in this setup with ARC) and there was a massive lag in sound even at -5, but running an optical fixed this and you still get that punch from DTS. I know optical isn't as good as HDMI for sound, but optical DTS is a whole lot better than running PCM via HDMI.

You do need to change the AVR input to optical every time you want to play games, but its totally worth it in this instance.
 

Railgun

Member
Oct 27, 2017
3,148
Australia
Why not just run an optical cable directly from your console into the AV Receiver for DTS?. I had the exact same issue when running my PC > TV > AVR (my PS4 is actually fine in this setup with ARC) and there was a massive lag in sound even at -5, but running an optical fixed this and you still get that punch from DTS. I know optical isn't as good as HDMI for sound, but optical DTS is a whole lot better than running PCM via HDMI.

You do need to change the AVR input to optical every time you want to play games, but its totally worth it in this instance.
Because my Xbox isn't the only device I'm listening to on my sound system, I have other consoles and the TV itself as well. Unless I work with a bulky and hassle splitter there's not much workaround unless I want to be mucking around with the optical cable every single day, often many times a day. Shouldn't need to with a TV like this.
 

Maverick-Swe

Member
Nov 26, 2017
327
Sweden
The sound issue. Is this due to one of the limits with the current HDMI standard? I'm pretty hyped for HDMI 2.1 and been reading it will save the day lol. Will probably sell my 65c7 and buy a new one when it arrives. Hopefully next year or in 2020.
 
OP
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P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
The sound issue. Is this due to one of the limits with the current HDMI standard? I'm pretty hyped for HDMI 2.1 and been reading it will save the day lol. Will probably sell my 65c7 and buy a new one when it arrives. Hopefully next year or in 2020.
I don't think audio is an HDMI 2.0 limitation, but seems more related to a TV SoC/CPU bottleneck/bug that adds a noticeable delay in processing, especially when Dolby Atmos is involved.

It's not a big issue, as can be workaround with the method above, or just skipped directly connecting the console/device via Optical or using Wireless Headsets with direct and lossless connection to the console like Xbox Wireless Protocol.
 

FrankNitty

Member
Oct 25, 2017
593
SoCal
If you guys have an AVR why aren't you running the console directly to it and output from the input? If you are running ARC (which is basically always a shitshow) you would be better served outputting from device to AVR directly and bypass the whole ARC/CEC implementation. I have never had lip sync issues from any of my devices(E6, C8, or A9F, running through Anthem MRX1120 and Denon X8500H) outside of 2 moves on the Oppo which I resolved with adjusting in Oppo settings.
 

sheaaaa

Banned
Oct 28, 2017
1,556
I bought a pair of Sony wireless headphones and for some reason my C7 doesn't allow game mode while Bluetooth audio is enabled. Anything I can do about this or am I out of luck? This is pretty shit.
 

RayCharlizard

Member
Nov 2, 2017
2,943
I bought a pair of Sony wireless headphones and for some reason my C7 doesn't allow game mode while Bluetooth audio is enabled. Anything I can do about this or am I out of luck? This is pretty shit.
Bluetooth itself has ~100ms of latency so it's not really feasible to use with game mode. It wouldn't be a great experience on any TV really, so makes sense for LG to outright disable it. You'd want to stick to optical for external audio for minimal latency or live without Game Mode.
 

sheaaaa

Banned
Oct 28, 2017
1,556
Bluetooth itself has ~100ms of latency so it's not really feasible to use with game mode. It wouldn't be a great experience on any TV really, so makes sense for LG to outright disable it. You'd want to stick to optical for external audio for minimal latency or live without Game Mode.

Ah that's disappointing. Cheers, thanks for the explanation.
 

zzzyz36

Member
Oct 23, 2018
204
If you guys have an AVR why aren't you running the console directly to it and output from the input? If you are running ARC (which is basically always a shitshow) you would be better served outputting from device to AVR directly and bypass the whole ARC/CEC implementation. I have never had lip sync issues from any of my devices(E6, C8, or A9F, running through Anthem MRX1120 and Denon X8500H) outside of 2 moves on the Oppo which I resolved with adjusting in Oppo settings.

My Denon doesn't support HDR, no point upgrading until HDMI 2.1.
 

Deleted member 50735

User requested account closure
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Dec 10, 2018
519
Thanks OP for your suggestions and I enjoyed the debate/discussion. I ended up going back to a calibrated normal Game HDR profile, 100% aligned with a Cinema HDR profile without any DC several days ago. And I far prefer it. I think your High DC ruins accuracy in many areas. Colour, luminance curve, contrast and brightness are all too far away from a normal calibrated profile to me and even started to give me headaches. BUT, I totally get why many will like it for a brighter screen, if you're in a very bright room as a work around. Thankfully my room is medium/low lit.

Everything for me is just so beautifully accurate with a normal calibrated profile. And because the overall screen isn't full on in your eyeballs all the time, peak highlights catch your retina better. After several days I compared again, and back to properly calibrated default, looks sublime in comparison. Scenes look so much more natural to me. So for me its been a worthwhile journey, as its made me appreciate where I've ended up.

No offence, and enjoy your settings, they are an option for some demanding a brighter solution. :o) Have a great Christmas and New Year.
 

markb1980

Member
Dec 18, 2018
68
Thanks OP for your suggestions and I enjoyed the debate/discussion. I ended up going back to a calibrated normal Game HDR profile, 100% aligned with a Cinema HDR profile without any DC several days ago. And I far prefer it. I think your High DC ruins accuracy in many areas. Colour, luminance curve, contrast and brightness are all too far away from a normal calibrated profile to me and even started to give me headaches. BUT, I totally get why many will like it for a brighter screen, if you're in a very bright room as a work around. Thankfully my room is medium/low lit.

Everything for me is just so beautifully accurate with a normal calibrated profile. And because the overall screen isn't full on in your eyeballs all the time, peak highlights catch your retina better. After several days I compared again, and back to properly calibrated default, looks sublime in comparison. Scenes look so much more natural to me. So for me its been a worthwhile journey, as its made me appreciate where I've ended up.

No offence, and enjoy your settings, they are an option for some demanding a brighter solution. :o) Have a great Christmas and New Year.

So what are your settings that you have settled on so we can have a try? Many thanks
 

Blue Ninja

Prophet of Truth
Member
Oct 25, 2017
2,753
Belgium
So my LG tv isn't an OLED, but a regular LED from 2017. Just updated it to find my video settings out of whack, and now I'm reading the too-dark HDR game mode has been fixed. However, no matter what I do, it still looks dim and washed out to me.

EDIT: Okay, seems I've got it figured out. Only thing that still irks me is the white balance, still doesn't seem right.

EDIT 2: The Xbox Guide is also ridiculously dark still... I could use some pointers. Anyone?
 
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OP
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P40L0

P40L0

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Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
I just use Steve Withers (ISF and THX Certified AV Calibrator) ones from this link. They give the most accurate and natural image for me:
LGOLED65E7 Best TV Picture Settings
He suggests Auto Gamut for SDR Game, that is not possible on LG 2017 OLEDs as it's forced to Wide for all models (therefore with oversaturated colors compared to Auto and with Color value to be toned down).
He also suggests very dim OLED Light values even for a dark room, with 2.4 Gamma for SDR that crushes black a lot, losing the darkest detail completely.

His HDR Game suggestion is good for accuracy, but without DC the picture is super dim compared to calibrated HDR Technicolor with Active HDR (still the reference to aim in HDR as the best luminance/accuracy preset).

His Dolby Vision suggestion is also misleading, as Auto Gamut cannot be selected there neither. It's forced to Wide also there.

Does not seem so accurate or recommended to me...
 

Deleted member 50735

User requested account closure
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Dec 10, 2018
519
He suggests Auto Gamut for SDR Game, that is not possible on LG 2017 OLEDs as it's forced to Wide for all models (therefore with oversaturated colors compared to Auto and with Color value to be toned down).
He also suggests very dim OLED Light values even for a dark room, with 2.4 Gamma for SDR that crushes black a lot, losing the darkest detail completely.

His HDR Game suggestion is good for accuracy, but without DC the picture is super dim compared to calibrated HDR Technicolor with Active HDR (still the reference to aim in HDR as the best luminance/accuracy preset).

His Dolby Vision suggestion is also misleading, as Auto Gamut cannot be selected there neither. It's forced to Wide also there.

Does not seem so accurate or recommended to me...

EDIT:
I get the salty response, but I was linking it solely for the game HDR without DC settings I used as a guide. They are very accurate for a non DC use scenario.
 
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Deleted member 50735

User requested account closure
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Dec 10, 2018
519
Just another thought. If you use the High DC option, won't you stand a greater risk of burn in over prolonged usage? I've had burn in, so know its a reality and possibility whether you like it or not. Games with a static hud are surely more at risk with the maxed luminance of your suggestion?
 

FrankNitty

Member
Oct 25, 2017
593
SoCal
P40L0 The OLED light that was suggested in that review will get you to 100 nits easily, and around 47+ fL. That is not dim for SDR. For the ISF night that will get you to around 32-35fL. In a light controlled room that is also not dim for SDR.

Just looking at settings and seeing viewing environment then claiming they are not accurate is silly when the settings in this thread are copied anyways from someone else display and viewing environment lol

Got to remember calibration is to meet a standard as well as viewer preference.
 
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OP
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P40L0

P40L0

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Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
EDIT:
I get the salty response, but I was linking it solely for the game HDR without DC settings I used as a guide. They are very accurate for a non DC use scenario.
Yeah, as I said HDR Game without DC is accurate indeed (same as HDR Cinema preset without Active HDR), but it's still too dim due to higher nits Tonemapping of those preset. That's also why Active HDR feature was created to compensate it and succeeding in doing so. DC set to High in HDR Game mode can get very close once its countereffects are offset properly.

Just another thought. If you use the High DC option, won't you stand a greater risk of burn in over prolonged usage? I've had burn in, so know its a reality and possibility whether you like it or not. Games with a static hud are surely more at risk with the maxed luminance of your suggestion?
Permanent burn-in with Active HDR or DC is almost impossible as long as you avoid playing 10 hours a day of static logos on screen...for weeks/months.
Don't worry about it in a "normal" mixed usage scenario.
 
OP
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P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
the settings in this thread are copied anyways from someone else display and viewing environment lol
Settings on this thread started based on professional calibrated results of B7/C7 and E7 models on AVSForum, and then further adjusted after direct testing in a dark environment (this for webOS profiles).

SDR/HDR Game profiles are not "copied" from anywhere, but are the results of direct testing with the goal to reach calibrated SDR/HDR Technicolor picture quality and accuracy, while preserving 21ms Input Lag.

Everyone can also take all these as their baseline, and adjust it according to their preference if needed.
 

FrankNitty

Member
Oct 25, 2017
593
SoCal
Settings on this thread started based on professional calibrated results of B7/C7 and E7 models on AVSForum, and then further adjusted after direct testing in a dark environment (this for webOS profiles).

SDR/HDR Game profiles are not "copied" from anywhere, but are the results of direct testing with the goal to reach calibrated SDR/HDR Technicolor picture quality and accuracy, while preserving 21ms Input Lag.

Everyone can also take all these as their baseline, and adjust it according to their preference if needed.

Right they are based off. Actually not even based off. They are softnrumble calibration settings of his display for the sdr and hdr items for everything non game mode. You only tried to match game settings to those by eye.

Basically the real settings done with a meter are copied are they not? No difference from Steve withers settings from AV forums. Same thing in my eyes. Copied settings are copied settings no matter how you try to paint it. Your game settings are "matched" by eye to match copied settings.
 
OP
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P40L0

P40L0

Member
Jun 12, 2018
7,593
Italy
Right they are based off. Actually not even based off. They are softnrumble calibration settings of his display for the sdr and hdr items for everything non game mode. You only tried to match game settings to those by eye.

Basically the real settings done with a meter are copied are they not? No difference from Steve withers settings from AV forums. Same thing in my eyes. Copied settings are copied settings no matter how you try to paint it. Your game settings are "matched" by eye to match copied settings.
They're based on, as changes from sonoftumble settings were made after direct testing (e.g. SDR/HDR OLED Light value), even if his settings were already mostly VERY accurate (tested again not only by eye, but with Rec709 Blu-Ray disc, X1X Calibration tool and other patterns).

SDR/HDR Game Mode values were choosen to match that accuracy, still using patterns and not only by eye.

That said and like I already said, anyone can start from there and further adjust if they feel the need, or just for personal preference. No issues about that.
 

Me_Marcadet

Member
Oct 25, 2017
411
I'm not trying to be snarky at all, but I find it funny when you say it's not by eye. No matter how many patterns you're using, it's still by eye.

Keep the good work, it still is helpful even if it's by eye. We learned a lot of things thanks to this thread.
 

FrankNitty

Member
Oct 25, 2017
593
SoCal
They're based on, as changes from sonoftumble settings were made after direct testing (e.g. SDR/HDR OLED Light value), even if his settings were already mostly VERY accurate (tested again not only by eye, but with Rec709 Blu-Ray disc, X1X Calibration tool and other patterns).

SDR/HDR Game Mode values were choosen to match that accuracy, still using patterns and not only by eye.

That said and like I already said, anyone can start from there and further adjust if they feel the need, or just for personal preference. No issues about that.

I don't think you get what I'm saying lol.

You said
Does not seem so accurate or recommended to me...

I said
Just looking at settings and seeing viewing environment then claiming they are not accurate is silly when the settings in this thread are copied anyways from someone else display and viewing environment lol

Got to remember calibration is to meet a standard as well as viewer preference.
should have read "and NOT seeing viewing environment

Meaning you cannot look at those settings and claim that they do not seem accurate. Without seeing viewing environment, pre and post cal that statement is silly that they don't seem accurate because your WebOS settings are copied settings. Correct?

Disregard game mode settings. Your WebOS settings are copied yes? They are sonoftumbles settings. That is why it is silly to me when someone is using copied settings, and makes a statement like that because you're in the same boat lol. That boat is using copied settings from someone else's display which was calibrated for their viewing environment.

Stressing accuracy and using copied settings don't go hand and hand. Plus regardless of what patterns you used when you attempted to match your settings it was done by eye using those patterns. Again stressing accuracy and matching by eye do not go hand and hand. Regardless of what content you used it was done by EYE.

Either way good work on your thread. Though again making statements about accuracy and your SDR/HDR game settings changing every other week would mean that they weren't accurate wouldn't it. Calibration doesn't change on a whim if it's accurate. Just sayin.

I'm sure lots of people learned a lot.
 

Sky87

Member
Oct 27, 2017
3,862
Just received 05.80.15 for my TV. I also see they've changed their update notes for the previous update and it seems the HDR Luminance Fix was an error. Now it just says:

[05.80.10]
1. To improve that the subtitle is not displayed when HbbTV app in on.

[05.80.15]
1. To improve Intermittent no audio issue during watching LiveTV.


I still know for sure that in games with ingame HDR calibration like AC Odyssey, you can make games look as bright as Technicolor /w Active HDR.
 

Deleted member 50735

User requested account closure
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Dec 10, 2018
519
I think there is some very grounded philosophy and points being made here. Much appreciated.

In sharing Steve Withers settings, which I currently use for game HDR. I was really just trying to point out that maybe its a good idea to have some starting point and baseline for the most natural image, at least to my eyes. If then people want it brighter, then by all means try other suggested settings. But in doing so there is no harm in reminding people that they may inccur negatives as they move further away from the baseline. As I found.

Also, something else on my journey of enlightenment I found. If a game has its own decent HDR settings, you can in some cases, make a brighter/less dim image without needing to deviate from the most natural/base line TV settings. Just a thought.

Perhaps more than one list of settings could be provided as suggestions. One being a basline and another for those finding the image dim. It would have been great if LG provided more than one profile for gaming HDR. In that scenario I'd keep one profile for the most natural/default image and another for when games dont provide HDR control and you want the TV settings adjusted to compensate.

I've been reading too, that even on the 2018 models Dynamic Tone mapping can get it wrong and may cause as many issues as it attempts to resolve.
 

kratos2412

Member
Nov 3, 2018
740
Germany
Just received 05.80.15 for my TV. I also see they've changed their update notes for the previous update and it seems the HDR Luminance Fix was an error. Now it just says:

[05.80.10]
1. To improve that the subtitle is not displayed when HbbTV app in on.

[05.80.15]
1. To improve Intermittent no audio issue during watching LiveTV.


I still know for sure that in games with ingame HDR calibration like AC Odyssey, you can make games look as bright as Technicolor /w Active HDR.

I just received it too , thought it would be surprise Christmas update :D
 
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Kefka

Member
Dec 17, 2018
2
[FOR PS4/PS4 PRO HDR GAMES] Does anyone know if it's advised to turn the brightness slider for hdr games on ps4 to 10? Some games like Uncharted, Horizon Dawn Zero do not have the HDR brightness slider but just the normal "brightness" slider up to 10. Wondering if it's ok to turn it to 10