- Mate on Singleplayer 30Fps games the input lag is fine i guess.
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Took me changing usb devices before mine finally worked, no matter what I tried on the first device I tried, nothing ever worked. The second device I tried worked immediately.
I agree. I switched to SDR as the "fake" HDR is pretty bad for me, regardless of TV settings. Hopefully they will fix it with a patch.
I actually noticed this exact problem myself and I've been playing exclusively in SDR. It only seems to appear during the cinematic camera, and even then only in certain lighting conditions I think? I'll need to test it off of PC mode to see if that's the cause.
I have noticed this same ghosting myself and i'm not using PC Mode (still on old firmware). So i doubt it's PC Mode having anything to do with it.
It's not a huge issue though, not something i would have noticed unless i panned the camera around while riding.
I wonder if it's an OLED thing. I notice something similar with my Galaxy Note9 when I'm scrolling and dark colors are displayed against other dark colors.
Been following the thread since its creation and just wanted to thank P40L0 (OP) for their work.
Setting on PC mode with new firmware hit the spot in terms of SDR content. I always felt I was crushing blacks or losing true black wirh other settings. The final settings seem to be that sweet spot for true black and creates that OLED pop.
Still not sure on HDR as playing RDR2 and have switched off HDR. But if SDR settings are anything to go by it should work a treat.
Thanks again OP I ll raise cold one in your honour.
Setting on PC mode with new firmware hit the spot in terms of SDR content. I always felt I was crushing blacks or losing true black wirh other settings. The final settings seem to be that sweet spot for true black and creates that OLED pop.
Still not sure on HDR as playing RDR2 and have switched off HDR. But if SDR settings are anything to go by it should work a treat.
Thanks again OP I ll raise cold one in your honour.
Just tried HDR settings on forza 4 ..even with white point set to 1000 there is a huge amount of clipping and details lost in the sky and snow. The light source completely clips the clouds.. I know the OP has gone on record saying this is the case.
But curious why we can't use Technicolor mode on PC mode HDR if the input lag is again minimal??
Feeling OCD kick in again...back to tweaking for HDR.
But curious why we can't use Technicolor mode on PC mode HDR if the input lag is again minimal??
Feeling OCD kick in again...back to tweaking for HDR.
You can. It's up to you to choose between brightness and detail.
You can use any HDMI port.
Technicolor HDR on PC Input has no Active HDR and no Dynamic Contrast. Same as HDR Game mode. It's super dim there.
You can't have all (brightness, details and low Input Lag), so a compromise has to be chosen for games: less clipping but dimmer PQ or more clipping but PQ as bright as possible in HDR?
In the end I choose the latter, especially adding on top also a better SDR, better HDR Movies and considering that most games have HDR Luminance sliders to mostly overcome the clipping.
I agree - The HDR settings look amazing in Halo:MCC. I think this maybe an issue of one size might not fit all.
I think I will pick HDR mode based on the game and the quality of HDR settings in game. I think I have just been used to preserving PQ at all costs but like you said previously - looking at the sun will cause clipping IRL.
Once again your work is appreciated. Good looking out!
Want to use this for my 55B6. Is it applicable or should I stick to the one from Digital Foundry?
Yes, if not specified in the Doc leave all at default (so outer in this case).
Thanks, I'll have to borrow a USB drive from a friend then. The one I'm using is from like 6 years ago so maybe it's just not compatible.
Yup, regardless of your tv or settings no point playing in HDR. Rockstar need to patch it but probably won't.
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Few Questions:
1) Do we have confirmation that PC Input type actually introduces more input lag than Game Mode? (>21ms).
2) Also quick question in regards to the "warmness of the image". If I find Warm 2 too warm, will Warm 1 still give an "accurate" image in regards to all the White Balance/ CMS changes or do I need to have Warm 2 selected for these very specific alterations to come into full effect?
I guess what I'm asking is, if I prefer a less warm image and prefer to use Warm 1, should I still make all the changes recommended in the White Balance and Colour Management System or will this result in a completely out of wack image?
3) What would be the best settings to use when connecting an actual PC for HDR Gaming?. Should we copy the Xbox output settings and force 4:2:0 and select 10bit colour?. Would this also be suitable for SDR PC gaming?
My thoughts on RDR HDR:
I find HDR turned ON for the C7 OLED actually looks better than HDR OFF. Might be due to the increased overall brightness it provides to the image?, but in terms of "washed out", I hardly notice a difference between HDR and SDR and im the type of person to sit there compare two images for hours. I had also changed the overall brightness to 48 so this may be why...
thanks
1) Do we have confirmation that PC Input type actually introduces more input lag than Game Mode? (>21ms).
2) Also quick question in regards to the "warmness of the image". If I find Warm 2 too warm, will Warm 1 still give an "accurate" image in regards to all the White Balance/ CMS changes or do I need to have Warm 2 selected for these very specific alterations to come into full effect?
I guess what I'm asking is, if I prefer a less warm image and prefer to use Warm 1, should I still make all the changes recommended in the White Balance and Colour Management System or will this result in a completely out of wack image?
3) What would be the best settings to use when connecting an actual PC for HDR Gaming?. Should we copy the Xbox output settings and force 4:2:0 and select 10bit colour?. Would this also be suitable for SDR PC gaming?
My thoughts on RDR HDR:
I find HDR turned ON for the C7 OLED actually looks better than HDR OFF. Might be due to the increased overall brightness it provides to the image?, but in terms of "washed out", I hardly notice a difference between HDR and SDR and im the type of person to sit there compare two images for hours. I had also changed the overall brightness to 48 so this may be why...
thanks
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1) Some users tested it again with equipment and was still 21.3ms...but switching between PC HDR Standard and PC HDR Game still felt a bit different to some degree, so it's not clear if the equipment is measuring wrong or if it's placebo. In my case PC HDR Standard plays just fine, and I'm not noticing the typical delays of all other "non-PC" and "non-Game" modes.
2) Yes, all WB/CMS you see are tailor made for Warm2 temperature, so if you want Warm1 I think you should skip the custom WB/CMS part to avoid inaccuracies
3) The best way you should se the PC is to output Full RGB 4:4:4 @ 8-Bit for all SDR contents and automatically switch to YUV 4:2:0 @ 10-bit for all HDR/DV contents, but I'm not sure if NVIDIA/AMD Control Panels are able to do so, or if there is some third party software that let you do this. If not, you should change it manually every time you change from SDR to HDR, or always leave it as HDR but loosing texts clarity in SDR...
Might need to head down to the optometrist? :)
Don't see any point myself playing RDR2 in HDR when it's fake, adds nothing and looks worse than SDR.
Thank you for taking the time to answer. Are you able to repost your Xbox SDR/HDR settings in game mode for those that don't want to use the PC input with added input lag please. As always, thanks in advance.
As I said, the PC HDR Standard "added input lag" is mostly placebo as any real delay is mostly unnoticeable compared to HDR Game, and a matter of +5-10ms at max.
Still totally worth the new calibration PQ overall improvements.
Anyway, if you want to stick with previously suggested calibration, here it is:
Both SDR (with crushed black-levels and oversaturated colors) and "fake-HDR" (with raised black-levels and washed out colors) are broken for me, as they both look wrong on properly calibrated SDR/HDR TV profiles.
So it's more a matter of choosing the lesser evil waiting for R* to release a decent patch for the game.
Just try watching a 4K/HDR Movie with HDR Technicolor Expert profile with Active HDR enabled (setting its Dynamic Contrast to LOW), then cycle it to HDR Game profile (with Dynamic Contrast to MEDIUM) first, then to calibrated HDR Standard.
You will immediately notice how much closer the latter is compared to HDR Game.
In the end you will have an overall brighter and more rich PQ while remaining accurate, with just a minor highlights clipping that can be mostly overcome in games correctly setting their HDR Luminance/Brightness sliders.
I get that too and it does my head in. Less pronounced in SDR Game Mode, but I hate that mode because of the color gamut. Incredible how the LG engineers can't fix small things like making color gamut optional in Game Mode.
What's A/B testing?
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I couldn't ever get hdr to look right in PC mode, so I just changed the input to game mode. I thought hdr just didn't work on pc mode, when I played pc games on my pc in hdr it always looked washed out with a green hue, every thing got fixed when I just changed the input to game instead of pc. LG E7.
LG fixed it with recent 5.80.04 firmware.
Just manual download/upgrade via LG Support website in your Region/Language for you model, and apply the settings in the OP to finally make it look better than SDR/HDR Game Modes.
It's just me or Warm 2 it's just too yellow? I feel like Warm 1 looks more natural. I know it's a lot of work, but could you please try calibrating using Warm 1? Thanks!!
Warm 2 is the most accurate. It looks yellow at first, but give yourself time. Your eyes adjust to it.
Yeh I also feel this way, but I'm going to stick with the settings in the OP for at least 1-2 weeks and hopefully adjust to it. I also find the picture doesn't "pop" as much with Warm 2, but I guess we are going for colour accuracy rather than an image that "pops".
OP - If we feel the colour isn't popping out with these settings, does increasing the colour sliders slightly again throw out the entire calibration? or will it be a more "poppy"- accurate image?
Yes, you can increase Color saturation for SDR or switch from Auto gamut to Wide to give PQ a more "vivid" look, even if less accurate.
I find the calibrated HDR profiles in the first post to be already very "poppy" instead, so I would not touch them.
For both SDR/HDR you can also decrease Color temperature from W49 to W40.
Lol, that's true.
But once you've all setup, you will be glad you did. For years to come... ;)
Ahah, well, let's wait if LG will surprise us again with some new crazy firmware before ;)
Is LG ever going to enable tone mapping on game mode for 2017 (maybe even 2016) models like on the 2018's? Is it even possible with a firmware update? Or is it a feature that's only on the 2018's due the new processors?
Unfortunately they already stated that the Dynamic Tone Mapping for 2016/2017 HDR Game Modes will never come due to hardware/processors limitations.
Anyway, as analyzed by Rtings, Dynamic Tone Mapping produces "strange" behaviours even on 2018 HDR Game Mode (the brightness goes up and down constantly and noticeably when entering in games' darker areas, often resulting annoying), and it still does not reach the luminance of HDR Technicolor with Active HDR or HDR Standard.
LG B8 with latest firmware should also have a fixed PC Input mode, so you can try it with calibrated settings of 2017 series as a baseline and compare to its HDR Game mode + Dynamic Tone Mapping offering (that should be better/brighter than 2017 models HDR Game mode PQ).
Just avoid White Balance and Color Management System tuning as that could be changed a bit from 2017 to 2018 series.
Just updated my settings and Bf1 looks great with these on XBX. Had to buy a USB stick for a small price but it was worth it. Don't have the patience to wait for LG's slow ota updates. I noticed netflix was faster as well.
The design of C8 is imo superior to C7 but under the hood not so much. I'm on a 65c7 which I'm happy with.
The design of C8 is imo superior to C7 but under the hood not so much. I'm on a 65c7 which I'm happy with.
As far as I know the latest firmware for 2016 models have rolled back HDR Game mode to previous tone mapping (the same as HDR Standard), you can check it cycling from the updated HDR Game to HDR Standard and PQ should be almost identical.
If this is the case you can use the same X1X HDR Calibrated Settings in the OP for HDR Game, and if you're able to select Auto Color Gamut dial back Color to 55, otherwise if it's still locked to Wide leave Color to 44.
For X1X SDR Calibrated Settings use the previous profile you can find in the "Version History" Spoiler Tag.
Fer webOS SDR/HDR settings you can use the same settings as a baseline but do not apply the custom White Balance and CMS.
EDIT: I'm not sure if PC Input works correctly on 2016 models, that's why I'm recommending you to use SDR/HDR Game in "non-PC" input for now. If PC Mode looks good also there, you can try using the same settings as the OP for everything only avoiding White Balance/CMS. If you don't see "Technicolor Expert", use "ISF Expert (Dark Room)" for SDR and "HDR Cinema" for HDR that should be identical.
Wow, thank you a lot for these settings! I'm in love with this TV and having it perform at its best is just pure bliss.
Can someone explain to me the logic of configuring HDR in AC Odyssey? I'm using the HDR Game settings on an LG B7 that were posted in the OP prior to the new TV firmware, but with Dynamic Contrast at Medium instead of High.
Test image tends to visibly show a circular sun behind the clouds at the default HDR settings (which is what I'm under the impression I'm supposed to see?), but very quickly becomes faded into a giant mass of white when I get to around 1100 Max Luminance. Is that supposed to happen? I was generally under the impression that Max Luminance settings in games ought to be set at around 3000-4000 nits and the TV will map it back down to display within its actual 800nit output?
EDIT: on second thought, gave the new PC mode HDR settings a shot and really enjoy them. I think it added a tiny bit of input lag on HDR mode only but it looks great. SDR PC mode feels identical to before and looks much better.
Test image tends to visibly show a circular sun behind the clouds at the default HDR settings (which is what I'm under the impression I'm supposed to see?), but very quickly becomes faded into a giant mass of white when I get to around 1100 Max Luminance. Is that supposed to happen? I was generally under the impression that Max Luminance settings in games ought to be set at around 3000-4000 nits and the TV will map it back down to display within its actual 800nit output?
EDIT: on second thought, gave the new PC mode HDR settings a shot and really enjoy them. I think it added a tiny bit of input lag on HDR mode only but it looks great. SDR PC mode feels identical to before and looks much better.
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Hello, everyone!
So do we have a confirmation for PC Mode HDR Standar lag measurement, on LG OLED B7? Here for an older firmware it is stated that is 104ms on PC mode HDR (No game mode) and on SDR is 21ms as in game mode:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9OvPfPd8s0&t=620s
Without a lag tester, in my eyes, it doesn't seem to be near the 100ms territory but i have only tested single player games and not for long period after the latest update....
So do we have a confirmation for PC Mode HDR Standar lag measurement, on LG OLED B7? Here for an older firmware it is stated that is 104ms on PC mode HDR (No game mode) and on SDR is 21ms as in game mode:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9OvPfPd8s0&t=620s
Without a lag tester, in my eyes, it doesn't seem to be near the 100ms territory but i have only tested single player games and not for long period after the latest update....
DOTDASHDOT already measured with external instrument the new PC HDR Standard profile at 21.3ms input lag, so same as PC SDR and HDR Game
Still, different people "feel" it with a "tiny bit of lag" added compared to PC SDR and HDR Game, but it's still not clear if this is just placebo or if there is something else going on.
Personally, PC HDR Standard feels responsive as HDR Game to me, and nothing like "non-PC" HDR Standard where things are almost unplayable there.
