This was a bug on the early PS5 days, not sure it was related to this setting. Anyway, it's been fixed. Auto-Auto is correct on PS5. It will switch between Full for 60Hz games to Limited for 120Hz. That's why it should be kept on Auto.
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This was a bug on the early PS5 days, not sure it was related to this setting. Anyway, it's been fixed. Auto-Auto is correct on PS5. It will switch between Full for 60Hz games to Limited for 120Hz. That's why it should be kept on Auto.
In real world works too since there is no handhacking issues between SDR to HDR on Auto. At least with PS5 and LG OLED TVs, Auto/Auto works perfectly and always output Full for games and Limited for movies (and the TVs adjusts itself correctly accordingly to that), so there is no potential problem with this setup.
On Xbox, yes, you need Limited/Low, but not on PS5 which is the console I was talking about.
Those reports don't apply to PS5 and LG OLED TVs.
You need to set Auto/Auto on both PS5 and the TV, this is the best setting. Alternatively, you can use Limited on PS5 and Low on TV, less accurate for PS5 but almost the same. Any other set up is wrong.
Those crushed black are intended. Is the art style of the game.
what kind of magic is "auto/auto" doing? if the tv is limited (which it is since it's a tv), the ps5 auto will put it in limited too. it's the same thing, it's not going to be "less accurate".
auto/auto is fine, but it's gonna do the same thing as low/limited set manually
The only "magic" Auto/Auto is doing, is that, in the case of PS5, it sets Full/High for games (HDR and SDR) and Limited/Low for movies automatically.
And what's the benefit of having Full/High for games on PS5? You can check the data gathered by Vincent Teoh here:
PS5 outputs Full range natively for games instead of Limited, like all other consoles do. That's why you end up with better black levels (the measurements are on the video, the numbers are objectively better, it's maths) if you let the PS5 send a Full signal to the TV instead of forcing the console to send a Limited signal.
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When I setup the settings for dolby vision content, the color gamut setting is greyed out. It's set to native. When I'm out of dolby vision, I can change that setting, but I only have auto or native, there is no wide option.
Are native and wide the same thing? The table in the OP says it should be wide.
Are native and wide the same thing? The table in the OP says it should be wide.
Have a PS5 since today and bought Ratchet & Clank immediately.
What's the way to play on my 65CX?
- Fidelity
- Performance RT
- Performance
I have set 120Hz to Auto
What's the way to play on my 65CX?
- Fidelity
- Performance RT
- Performance
I have set 120Hz to Auto
Worth noting the fidelity mode will run at 40fps instead of 30 since your display supports 120Hz. That's my pick, but you can't go wrong with any mode in that game they're all great.
Really? Even in the dungeon? Can't see Jack shit in Kamoshida's castle.
interesting stuff, thanks for the time stamp on the video btw! i went ahead and set mine back to auto
For the PS5, do I also need to set the HDMI to PC mode on my LG 65CX? Just as I did for Xbox Series X.
Doesnt matter really. It doesnt support 4.4.4 chroma.
I still did it tho haha. I like the same line for all my consoles
Yes if you want the advantages of full chroma
PS5 does support 4:4:4 chroma at 4K/60Hz. So having the PC label benefits all not 120fps games, which are A LOT of games.
Pretty sure it's locked to 4.2.2. at 4k/60? It's says that's in the info on ps5
Is not.
Something's wrong then. Check again. Are you using the official cable?
But Vincent himself says in this vid. He keeps it on game console and not change it to PC mode because it doesnt matter because it doesnt support it?
Vincent literally says on the time stamp you've shared that full 4:4:4 DOES WORK at 60Hz but not at 120Hz. He leaves the console label because he is taking into account playing movies with the console (PC mode disables son cinema related features) and because he is only taking into account 120Hz games. In a real life scenario, 99% of games you are going to play will run at 60Hz so there is no downside to set the PC label for games.
I just went to my console and took these pictures to prove it.
Video output information when a 4K/60Hz game is running:
(you have RGB or full 4:4:4 chroma)
Video output information when a 4K/120Hz game is running:
(you have YUV422)
Oh thought that 4.2.2 line behind the HZ was for all HZ but its only for 120hz. Thats confusing haha.Vincent literally says on the time stamp you've shared that full 4:4:4 DOES WORK at 60Hz but not at 120Hz. He leaves the console label because he is taking into acount playing movies with the console (PC mode disables son cinema related features) and because he is only taking into account 120Hz games. In a real life scenario, 99% of games you are going to play will run at 60Hz so there is no downside to set the PC label for games.
I just went to my console to prove it.
Video output information when a 4K/60Hz game is running:
(you have RGB or full 4:4:4 chroma)
Video output information when a 4K/120Hz game is running:
(you have YUV422)
Awell. Like i said PC mode is the option with no downside. Only maybe of you use it also for media alot.
So what I find odd here is that my ps5 shows RGB if I don't have the HDMI icon set to PCVincent literally says on the time stamp you've shared that full 4:4:4 DOES WORK at 60Hz but not at 120Hz. He leaves the console label because he is taking into acount playing movies with the console (PC mode disables son cinema related features) and because he is only taking into account 120Hz games. In a real life scenario, 99% of games you are going to play will run at 60Hz so there is no downside to set the PC label for games.
I just went to my console and took these pictures to prove it.
Video output information when a 4K/60Hz game is running:
(you have RGB or full 4:4:4 chroma)
Video output information when a 4K/120Hz game is running:
(you have YUV422)
That's the bottomline, yep.
The console doesn't change the way it outputs its signal depending on what settings do you have on the TV. In this case, the console will always output (at 4K/60Hz) a RGB signal, but if you don't have the PC label, your TV won't be able to represent that chroma range (4:4:4) and will convert it to 4:2:2 internally.
What's the consensus on the native Disney +, Prime and Netflix apps on the tv vs. Using it via PS5 or Series X?
I sware the ones of the TV look better but it could just be a placebo effect.
I sware the ones of the TV look better but it could just be a placebo effect.
I don't think that works 100%. Crave has Dolby Vision through Roku Streaming Stick but not the webOS app.
consoles are generally not that great for media playback tbh. I much prefer dedicated devices over the internal apps as well. cant even pass through dts on LG for example lol
I wouldn't just write one off over the other, both are useful in their own ways, you just have to approach it on a game by game thing, one thing I would say is never not use any of them, it is quite shocking how dim the highlights are when you just use off, almost SDR level.
It mostly depends on the game tone mapping and in-game sliders/controls.
Even with DTM and HGIG both Off, games with proper 4.000 nits Peak HDR Luminance and decent Paper White (around 200 nits, similar to movies) will look perfectly bright and correct.
For those games with no in-game HDR controls at all which often internally target 10.000 nits and/or with low default paper white will look awful without DTM etc.
HGIG is usually the most accurate setting with proper in-game HDR sliders (just set those to 800 nits and there's no tone mapping at all: what the game will output is what the TV can actually handle and that's it), but sometimes even in those cases final results may be too dim for many as the "HDR effect" may be only enjoyable in totally pitch black rooms.
For these reasons there's no clear winner as you stated:
DTM should be more consistent/pleasant across the board, but less accurate.
HGIG the most accurate, but often too dim.
DTM/HGIG Off (or just with regular Dynamic Contrast: Low) is perfectly fine for 95% of Movies and all Games which can actually go to 4.000 nits, but can also be too dim in more generic HDR games and those 5% of Movies which target 10.000 nits instead.
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I said yolo and ordered one. I didnt turn asbl off on my gaming TV but my movies one I did.
I know I've asked this before, so sorry for the repeat question, but I've wanted to watch physical 4K movies again on my PS5 (I've given up on the Series X, there's some weird issue where the screen goes black, it clearly doesn't like my audio receiver and I'm not buying a new one).
I wanted to know what the recommended settings were. I'm pretty sure I'm using them, but wanted to double check.
I wanted to know what the recommended settings were. I'm pretty sure I'm using them, but wanted to double check.
Disney+, Hulu and HBO max are capped to 1080p for whatever reason. Use the tv apps until they get updated to native ps5 apps.
I have a non settings question about the lg 65" oled.
Is it safe to put a Nintendo switch next to the tv? As in on the same shelf on my tv stand within inches of the tele?
I know older tv's would emit magnetic waves that could effect memory cards etc by deleting things and even damaging them.
is that still the case??
Is it safe to put a Nintendo switch next to the tv? As in on the same shelf on my tv stand within inches of the tele?
I know older tv's would emit magnetic waves that could effect memory cards etc by deleting things and even damaging them.
is that still the case??
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DTM on the CX is tricky. i would say your 95% or so is pretty indicative of the time I like it on for TV/shows, accuracy be damned. the only real issue i've had was super dark stuff being over darkened to the point it's tough to see. in a bright/colorful movie on the other hand, it will pop and possibly blind you
to that end, I wish they had a less aggressive option for DTM instead of binary on/off, much like dynamic contrast option has. majority of folks are just looking a little boost in the highlights lol. Sony has this on their J series LEDs, I assume it's similar on the J oleds; maybe by the time I need a new one, LG will have added something.
I don't think you have anything to worry about, that sounds like an ancient CRT thing. just don't take a magnet to your OLED panel…
Yeah, Auto/Auto is definitely the way to go with PS5. You end up with black crush (for games) if you go Limited/Low on a CX and I'd assume a C1 as well. Not sure about older models.
For the C1, you're best to disregard the OP and trawl through Vincent's videos for suggested settings. He's at least had the actual TVs on hand and provides suggested settings based on testing and measurements which don't deviate too much from default.
Trying out auto black level on my C1 and auto color/RGB on my PS5 and it definitely seems a little better than low/limited (I also followed that PS5 HDR calibration suggested a couple pages back). Blacks are deep without being crushed and highlights look just as great as ever with Ghost of Tsushima. Great level of detail all around.
I have no idea how it compares to a professional calibration but I'm really happy with it, at least.
I have no idea how it compares to a professional calibration but I'm really happy with it, at least.
My set updated too, but I haven't noticed a brightness increase. I'll mess around with it later.
It seems that for games that doesn't support DV natively, the HDR Calibration Tool is being used after all.
I've got a quick question about the native Netflix app. Is there a way of adding content to your watchlist, or just viewing info about it, without clicking into the thumbnail itself? Doing that automatically begins playing the content in the background, which is really annoying. Is there a way of turning that off? (I'm not talking about the auto preview setting - I've already turned that off).