Always try the simplest option first
Also try a diff hdmi cable make sure it's 2.1
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Also try a diff hdmi cable make sure it's 2.1
Is it just me or does the PS5 dashboard in HDR look REALLY DIM? My games look fine. I have everything setup as recommended in this thread. I have my TV set to HGIG by default and only flip on DTM for the occasional game that looks better with it on. Anyway, it's just annoying, since, like I said, everything else looks fine. Am I going crazy or is there an issue with the PS5 dash? LG C9 here.
Ah, ok. Thanks very much! I'll just enable everything then, haha
Just got my 55" C1 today after almost a month of excruciating wait (specially since I sold my X900H about 3 weeks ago so I was out of a TV since then).
I'm having an issue with my PS5. It's not detecting the TV as a HDMI 2.1 compatible display. If I fire up a game that switches the game to 120Hz, it'll drop the resolution down to 1080p. It also detects HDCP as 1.4, which is obviously wrong.
Anyone have any idea of what might be causing this? The PS5 (with the same cable, the one included with the console) worked fined at 4K@120hz on my X900H. My Series S also outputs 4K120hz without issue on the C1.
I'm having an issue with my PS5. It's not detecting the TV as a HDMI 2.1 compatible display. If I fire up a game that switches the game to 120Hz, it'll drop the resolution down to 1080p. It also detects HDCP as 1.4, which is obviously wrong.
Anyone have any idea of what might be causing this? The PS5 (with the same cable, the one included with the console) worked fined at 4K@120hz on my X900H. My Series S also outputs 4K120hz without issue on the C1.
If you haven't already done so, I'd try switching the PS5 to another HDMI port. Could be an issue with the port itself
It seems to be a current issue with the newest batch of C1s. You can read up on it here and here. Unfortunately no fix yet. Although a Redditor did provide this:
"Hi, Thanks for making me aware of this problem. What fix it for me is: Go to all settings than general, than devices, than in tv Management Turn off quick Start+ and in hdmi Settings Turn off simplink. Than Turn off the ps5 and the tv. Now i have 2.3 support."
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Thanks. I'll try it out tomorrow!
I don't really care about the HDCP problem since I don't use my consoles for media. But I'm annoyed by the inability to get 4K120hz and I assume it's related.
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For those with C1s, it got another firmware update on the 25th, not sure what it fixes.
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I had to disable HDCP on the PS5 so it would let me do 120hz without dropping me down to 1080p.
Every panel will be different as far as what OLED Light setting will give you 100 nits in SDR. A range of 25-35 is probably around 100 nits on average depending on your individual panel. The only way to know for sure is to get a light meter and calibration software to measure it. For example I have two OLEDs that I have calibrated for SDR Day viewing. One is around OLED Light 70 and the other is around 80 yet they're both hitting the same level of nits output. So again every panel will be different as will model years but somewhere in that range of OLED Light 25-35 is close enough.
The next two you adjust until 1 click before they blend in. It's only really 1 of those that does anything anyway.
I thought it was click after you don't see the image. Hmmm
It's generally one before or the point as it disappears. Games may interpret the value slightly differently , but I'd opt for just before as it will prevent clipping.
Vincent has a video on it somewhere where he has measured that screen.
Not just you. I have a Sony Bravia and the dash indeed looks muted and sim a bit with HDR set on(or to the on when supported option).
Turning it off and the tiles and dash suddenly pops with color and improved whites. But of course I keep it on. Sony has struggled with HDR and PS5 since launch it feels.
If you are in the USA LGs are on sale at Costco starting today and lasting for a month, prices are
48 - $1099
55 - $1299
65 - $1799
77 - $2999
83 - $4999
I'd expect most retailers to start price matching soon.
I've been using a 65 B7 since 2016 or 2017 and it started getting burn in this year after being on for over 18,000 hours so I figure this was a good time to upgrade. User interface feels familiar but also quite different, gonna have to read through the thread and see all the stuff I need to calibrate, tweak, etc. I do have an LG service remote so I can play around with what panel lottery I got, etc once I finish tweaking stuff. Its a bit overwhelming with all the "game mode" and "artists film vision" stuff.
Good thing is ps5, series X, switch, and PC all pretty much just work. I did prep ahead of time and buy a ton of 48gpbs HDMI 2.1 cables and started using them last week on my old TV so it would be an easy swap. Its great how easy it is to setup Netflix, Disney+, etc nowadays with a phone or PC next to your TV.
48 - $1099
55 - $1299
65 - $1799
77 - $2999
83 - $4999
I'd expect most retailers to start price matching soon.
I've been using a 65 B7 since 2016 or 2017 and it started getting burn in this year after being on for over 18,000 hours so I figure this was a good time to upgrade. User interface feels familiar but also quite different, gonna have to read through the thread and see all the stuff I need to calibrate, tweak, etc. I do have an LG service remote so I can play around with what panel lottery I got, etc once I finish tweaking stuff. Its a bit overwhelming with all the "game mode" and "artists film vision" stuff.
Good thing is ps5, series X, switch, and PC all pretty much just work. I did prep ahead of time and buy a ton of 48gpbs HDMI 2.1 cables and started using them last week on my old TV so it would be an easy swap. Its great how easy it is to setup Netflix, Disney+, etc nowadays with a phone or PC next to your TV.
Nice, but holding out Black Friday for better pricing. Fingers crossed!
not much of a sale really...I hope BF sales are better.
Anyone have a Sony A90J? I read it's a superior viewing TV and comes out the box better calibrated. Obviously LG has the better gaming features but I wanted a more real-world comparison of image quality.
In Vincent's video, he found out that in order to reach optimal peak brightness, you have to make the sun icon disappear, without the risk of clipping highlights IRC
Is the no signal bug on the Series X a widespread issue?
I had no problem with my CX until last week.
I found out that I don't need to unplug the hdmi cable and can just toggle off and on the ALLM option in the TV settings, but it's quite annoying to do almost every time I want to play.
I run my gaming PC and consoles to the TV and eARC the sound to the receiver, so I get the best of both worlds. Receivers often support eARC even if they do not support HDMI 2.1.
It absolutely was.
It's still the best TV money can buy, along with C1 ;)
Okay well thanks for the reply. I feel less crazy now. Shit drives me nuts though! hah
Warts and all, I feel incredibly lucky for snagging the 55" C1 for less than a thousand bucks. And I was able to sell my X900H for $800! #blessed.
It's such a noticeable jump in image quality. And the X900H wasn't a bad TV at all (other than the kerfuffles with the HDMI 2.1 features).
Like, I still can't believe it.
It's such a noticeable jump in image quality. And the X900H wasn't a bad TV at all (other than the kerfuffles with the HDMI 2.1 features).
Like, I still can't believe it.
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Honest opinions needed:
I just purchased a LG OLED, and I know their screens are super sensitive to UV and light in general. While I was at work, a friend came by my place and left the blinds open. They were just trying to help me out, but I'm pretty upset and worried about damage showing in the future, as the light was directly on the screen. It was like this for about an hour, with late afternoon Southern California sunlight. I've run tests, and it appears to be fine, no streaks or smudges, but should I be concerned for the long term? Will the damage, if any, show immediately, or is that something that will appear over time? This is my first OLED TV, so I don't have much experience otherwise. Thanks in advance
I just purchased a LG OLED, and I know their screens are super sensitive to UV and light in general. While I was at work, a friend came by my place and left the blinds open. They were just trying to help me out, but I'm pretty upset and worried about damage showing in the future, as the light was directly on the screen. It was like this for about an hour, with late afternoon Southern California sunlight. I've run tests, and it appears to be fine, no streaks or smudges, but should I be concerned for the long term? Will the damage, if any, show immediately, or is that something that will appear over time? This is my first OLED TV, so I don't have much experience otherwise. Thanks in advance
I got my 77cx for 5000… last year. Lol
Well actually I got it for free but that's another story. The value was 5000
You're 100% fine. Damage would take day after day after day of the same sunlight. As long as it doesn't consistently get hit by direct light, you're fine.
I'm also in Socal if you ever decide to have the TV professionally calibrated.
New C1 owner here. Is there a way to stop the App bar from showing up everytime I turn the TV on. I'm on one of the HDMI inputs, and it sits there until I press return on the remote. Annoying.
Disable Home Auto Launch. It's buried somewhere inside General > System > Home settings (or similar)
by any chance do you have a pi-hole or some other custom DNS stuff going on? if so it's possible that some of the LG connections are being blocked by the default filter on pi-hole which I have ran into when setting it up to stop the damn interactive ads from popping up during sporting events.
otherwise you may just need to do a full power cycle on the TV to reset the network
DV 120 Hz is worthless. The downgrade in PQ over HDR 120 is not worth it.
I've started a game of Ori 2 and the introduction is terrible in DV 120hz, there was banding everywhere...
If you really want DV, DV 60 Hz is fine.
Maybe they could fix the compression artefact in a future update, but I thing it's a hardware limitation and have really little hope.
If you only care about PQ, use DV 60hz, if you care about PQ and input lag, use HDR 120 Hz.
I've started a game of Ori 2 and the introduction is terrible in DV 120hz, there was banding everywhere...
If you really want DV, DV 60 Hz is fine.
Maybe they could fix the compression artefact in a future update, but I thing it's a hardware limitation and have really little hope.
If you only care about PQ, use DV 60hz, if you care about PQ and input lag, use HDR 120 Hz.
Are you playing in PC mode? I haven't seen any banding in DV 120hz in Ori 2 on my CX.
I'm getting my 65 C1 tomorrow, is there any break in period where you should be cycling content for a bit?
Never heard of this, also never done it for my B7, C9, or G1.
Just use the TV as you normally would. Does it hurt to use it and enjoy it as much as you can to have some pixel refresh cycles kick in every 4 hours of use? Nah ;)
*Hugs both my CX's. Glad I held out another year instead of jumping in too early with the C9 from my B7. Cant wait to see what Halo Infinite looks like on my 77inch lol.
Anyone noticing more prominent "chrominance overshoot" on DV video content after installing the DV 120Hz update on their CX? I watched Dune last night in DV and there were so many scenes where the near-black areas of the screen were rapidly flickering. I've had my CX for almost and year and have never seen it behave like this before. I absolutely would have noticed.
i have both 77CX and 65c9. I see no difference with 4k120 DV,
Personally, I can live without DV 120hz.
I'm mostly satisfied with HGIG in recent releases & even if native DV games do offer a noticably better picture in the future - I doubt there will be too many games where I'll feel like missing out with "just DV 60hz".
For this hobby, my C9 is still the one of the best upgrades I've ever made.
I'm mostly satisfied with HGIG in recent releases & even if native DV games do offer a noticably better picture in the future - I doubt there will be too many games where I'll feel like missing out with "just DV 60hz".
For this hobby, my C9 is still the one of the best upgrades I've ever made.