I have a 65BX since today. Is it normal that I have to adust the Ingame Brightness to the lowest in bloodborn to make the icon invisible? On my old TV I didnt need to adjust the brightness sliders to get the it right.
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Are you playing on PS5 by chance? I noticed that Sony making the console output SDR games in fake HDR breaks all these in game settings for brightness etc for me.
HGIG is an active option in the Game Mode picture preset, regardless of the HDMI input being PC Mode or not.
True 444 chroma will be PC Mode. That's a color subsampling thing, not a HDR tone mapping thing, which is not affected by the signal being 444 422 or 420 (the first 4 is the luminance compression factor).
Don't think dim is necessarily bad. Are you in a bright room in day time? If so, DTM will raise the TV's entire brightness level and may be more suitable. But at night, if you're after accuracy, HGIG will not destroy your gamma like DTM can do by raising the brightness of everything - HGIG only brightens the highlights, which is the entire point of HDR in the first place.
Yep I know. I inspected small details and small white text. At least on the CX, PC mode isn't needed for 444. Artifacts that showed up when the PS5 was set to 422 did not show up when it was set to HDR RGB.
zeskit seems good, but I don't know that they go to 25'. You're looking for a 40gbps+ cable, sometimes called an 8K cable. There isn't really an hdmi 2.1 cable per se.
Seems like they top out at 16':
Zeskit 8K Ultra HD High Speed 48Gpbs HDMI Cable 16ft, 8K60 4K120 144Hz eARC HDR10 4:4:4 HDCP 2.2 & 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Xbox PS4 PS5 Apple TV 4K Roku Fire TV Switch Vizio Sony LG Samsung https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1BNM7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_TrVVFb4AQK6PJ?psc=1
Yea and sadly that's just like 3ft too short. I might need to get one of those $80 optical cables I think...
PC mode is required for 4:4:4 on the CX. I've run my own tests and confirmed this. I'll post some pictures when I get home.
I have a general question about the LG CX. Every time I change TV inputs, it powers on the last device it remembers on that input. For example, I'm using a Denon receiver which outputs to HDMI 2 on the TV for use with eArc. So, I can plug my PS5 into the Denon receiver, watch cable with AT&T U-Verse, etc, and I can also use the TV apps like Prime and Netflix (so I have SIMPLINK and the other eArc-related settings enabled) with eArc + selecting the TV Audio input on the Denon receiver.
Everything works fine except that if, for example, I am switching from a TV app to HDMI 2 which then powers on the PS5 even though I don't want to play the PS5 but perhaps go to AT&T U-Verse cable instead. So, I always have to turn off the PS5 manually at this time. Is there a way to make the TV change the input without powering on the last connected device? It is so annoying! I tried googling for help, but maybe I don't know the right words to search for.
I tried disabling Auto Device Detection, but it has no effect that I can discern. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.
Everything works fine except that if, for example, I am switching from a TV app to HDMI 2 which then powers on the PS5 even though I don't want to play the PS5 but perhaps go to AT&T U-Verse cable instead. So, I always have to turn off the PS5 manually at this time. Is there a way to make the TV change the input without powering on the last connected device? It is so annoying! I tried googling for help, but maybe I don't know the right words to search for.
I tried disabling Auto Device Detection, but it has no effect that I can discern. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.
I did some more testing, and yep I was wrong. Originally when my PS5 was in 422 mode, I could see orange fringes on white text with a red background, but those went away once it was in RGB(444)mode, so I thought everything was perfect.
However after comparing Game Console to PC mode, PC mode cleaned it just a bit further. So some reason even though both the PS5 and TV show RGB, it really wasn't 100%.
So yeah, now my consoles are all using the PC icon. At least we can rename the inputs and still use game mode.
great I can't wait to see the pictures. thank you so much
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks! I thought this was an issue with the TV but it wasn't.
It's probably been discussed to death but is HGIG actually better when gaming on PS5? Which are the disadvantages of DTM ON? I'm asking because it's my impression that only a few games support HGIG.
This isn't really a HDR-related question, but on my B7 I have what looks like burn in on the bottom of the screen. Can't make out what it's from. Interestingly, even though it's green in colour, it's only visible when warm colours like red and especially orange are displayed in the areas affected. Never things like white, blue etc.
I've had this issue a few times before I got it fixed, but I'm tired of it now. Is this burn-in or the LUT issue / defect with 2017 LG OLED sets? Got a feeling it's the latter...
I've had this issue a few times before I got it fixed, but I'm tired of it now. Is this burn-in or the LUT issue / defect with 2017 LG OLED sets? Got a feeling it's the latter...
Ugh.... played some Animal Crossing at lunch and running around the beach at mid-day showed both horizontal and vertical banding.
I'm almost at the two week mark of having had the set, and am using it every day for a number of hours each, and was hoping I'd see signs of this disappearing.
I'm almost at the two week mark of having had the set, and am using it every day for a number of hours each, and was hoping I'd see signs of this disappearing.
HGIG disables the TVs tone mapping, so it displays exactly what the game is outputting and gives you the most accurate image. The only problem is if the game outputs brightness the OLED can't display (anything above ~800 nits) so any game that lets you set the maximum or uses the PS5 system calibration values will work with HGIG.
With DTM, LGs algorithm tries to guess what to display based on the brightness in any given frame. It brightens the overall image and can blowout certain highlights and crush black detail depending on the scene.
Yeah and unfortunately there's nothing you can really do about it. I've been using VRR and I rarely ever notice it. It only happens when the game drops frames and only in dark parts of the picture so the trade off is worth it for me. Might be worse if you're playing something dark like a horror game though.
Also for those curious, here are some quick cell phone pictures demonstrating 4:4:4 in PC mode. Ignore the difference in brightness, that was just my phone's camera adjusting.
Non-PC Mode:
PC Mode:
Non-PC Mode:
PC Mode:
My understanding is that 4:4:4 really has minor benefits for text, but otherwise it's not noticeable in gaming and motion. Is that true?Also for those curious, here are some quick cell phone pictures demonstrating 4:4:4 in PC mode. Ignore the difference in brightness, that was just my phone's camera adjusting.
Non-PC Mode:
PC Mode:
Pretty much. It only really affects small and fine detail (like text) so you probably won't notice it especially in motion, but there aren't any downsides to turning on PC mode on the C9/CX so it'll help get just a small bit of clarity back
EDIT: Also worth noting this only affects games and computer generated sources. No video content is in 4:4:4 so PC mode won't make a difference
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Is there consensus yet on what the best RGB setting is on the PS5 for C9/CX? Switching between Auto/Auto on both TV and console and Limited/Low I can hardly see any difference. So I've left it on Auto as that uses full RGB range and I think I'm good.
As a note I'm won't be watching any movies on the console so I don't think Limited is going to come into play for me regardless.
As a note I'm won't be watching any movies on the console so I don't think Limited is going to come into play for me regardless.
Using PC Mode (with C9/CX) + RGB Limited / Standard Color Space and Black Level: Low you will be 100% sure to always have the correct settings both for SDR, HDR and DOLBY VISION (the latter only on Xbox at the moment).
Ok, thanks -- as I can't see the difference between Auto/Auto and Limited in games, I'll keep it at Limited/black level low.
My larger question really was does RGB Full have any benefits over RGB Limited for gaming on console? (as I said, I personally can't see any difference switching between the two)
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On the CX, shouldn't it actually be set on the PS5 to automatic and then set the black level to auto in the tv settings? Just so the console can talk to the tv and adjust however it needs to?
Sorry, yeah I meant Auto setting on both console and TV there; mistyped (edited now).
good that this issue is wide spread. Maybe LG can come up with a fix some day.
Ok, after latest v1.0.4 update of AC: Valhalla (which also include an actual fix to screen tearing on Series X, hell yeah!) I noticed a slight change/improvement of its HDR rendition and luminance, therefore I also slightly updated my in-game settings recommendation:
- AC Valhalla: SDR Brightness 4; SDR Contrast 5 (Default); 4.000 nits HDR Peak Luminance, 0.5 HDR Exposure
Use auto / auto on both the TV and console. If you're on C9 you'll need to use PC mode to properly have auto on the TV. You can use limited / low if you want, but you're losing chroma / luma resolution.
Limited Color Space has nothing to do with full 4:4:4 Chroma Subsampling.
RGB Limited is still RGB (4:4:4), and not YUV 420 or YCC 422...
One thing that I have tested a lot since I got my 3080, is that I get less banding with RGB 8bit than with RGB 10/12bit, in gaming (in gradient tests 10bit is better). The reason could be two things: The 3080's dithering for 8bit is better than the C9's 10bit quantization, or that games out there still are not made with 10bit in mind.
I noticed that with Blacklevel/ Color Space on AUTO you will get a mismatch on the C9 if you let the console idle till the PS5 energy saving mode turns it off. After turning the console back ON I noticed the crushed black... and was able to fix it by turning the console HDR settings OFF and ON again.. another reason to not use AUTO and go LOW/ Limited route
PC is better on paper for C9/CX.
If you have issues, revert the input icon to "Game Console".
Do I need to set anything on the CX if I want to use VRR, but NOT use FreeSync? I'm under the impression that turning VRR on in the Series X settings is all that needs to be done and the TV will automatically use the HDMI 2.1 VRR when FreeSync is turned off. Is this correct?
Vincent recommended 900 nits for Valhalla, why so high?
I am on C8 with DTM.
Turn off AMD Freesync from the TV, you will still fully retain VRR and also unlock Dolby Vision on Xbox.
Also remember to disable the "Live+" service from General Settings.
With DTM/DC On or Off, LG OLEDs' HDR Game presets from 2017 to 2020 will Tone Map HDR with a base target of 4.000 nits (same as HDR Cinema preset).
Only when using HGIG that target will just be turned off, and tone mapping is entirely bypassed to console/in-game settings.
This is an aside but I don't know where else to ask, but do any of you have an Apple TV? I can't seem to get my CX to display 10bit colour at all with it. I can get HDR to display 10bit but only if I drop the colour from 4.2.2 to 4.2.0 in the ATV settings, Dolby Vision and SDR content only ever output at 8bit no matter what I do. Am I missing a setting somewhere? The XSX displays 10 bit fine on the dash but again Dolby Vision drops to 8 bit
Sorry if this is a stupid question. This is my first OLED and I'm very confused with different settings lol
Sorry if this is a stupid question. This is my first OLED and I'm very confused with different settings lol
I figured you stop the luminance once the sample image stops changing in tone. On my TV (CX) it stopped at exactly 1000. I don't understand why people are going with 800 or maxing it out at 4000. Can someone enlighten me?
EDIT: Got my answer from the post below.
These sorts of text test images are great - if you're using PC in desktop mode :)Also for those curious, here are some quick cell phone pictures demonstrating 4:4:4 in PC mode. Ignore the difference in brightness, that was just my phone's camera adjusting.
Non-PC Mode:
PC Mode:
For those who game or watch multi-media, it's completely pointless as has literally no impact to your end image.
Let's say you don't like HGIG and prefer DTM, even in games thst support HGIG. In that case, do you still have to calibrate the HDR on the console settings with HGIG on and then switch to DTM on, or could you calibrate the HDR on the console settings with DTM on and just go with it?
It actually does have an affect on games (yes, it's a very small difference and you're unlikely to notice especially in motion). It makes no difference on video content though. But in the end there's no down side to using PC mode on the C9/CX so might as well enable it for games.
There is a down-side, you lose access to a ton of picture settings! If you're a purist and don't need them, fine, no drama. But still, some of us like having picture tweaking options.
Always calibrate HDR in the DTM mode (On,Off,HGIG) you are playing the game in. Or DTM will be either too bright or too dim.