-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
-
We have made minor adjustments to how the search bar works on ResetEra. You can read about the changes here.
Glad it isn't just me. I do indeed have the latest firmware, 5.whatever. The only thing I don't have checked is 4.2.2. I may go in and change my color to 10bit, I'm pretty sure it's 8bit but I'm not sure that will do anything. It's funny because when I first turned on VRR I had issues with my screen going black in Ori. Today I tried it again and no issues (I saw that MS has 4k/120 with VRR listed as a known issue on their site). I'm not sure what's going on.
Really annoying how the C9 dims so damn much when HDR gaming in dim scenes. Gotta press pause to brighten the image again.
Everything is super informative and updated here, but I think there is one issue:
4K/60hz + HDR + 4:2:2 is wrongly described at 8-bit on the TV as it's also happening on C9 Info Menu.
It's just a visual bug on the TV software infopanel as it was demonstrated analyzing the signal with an external Vertex Fury that Xbox actually sends out a 4K/60hz + HDR + 4:2:2 at 12-bit on HDMI 2.0b devices, which is the best signal you would get for HDR on 2016-2018 OLEDs (also using the 593MHz pixel clock required for 12-bit 4:2:2).
More info about this visual bug here.
For HDMI 2.1 and C9/CX, all is correct: 4:2:2 should be disabled, and Color Depth can be left to 8-bit as it won't be any different as forcing 10-bit but it's better to not alter original SDR source in any way.
Last edited:
I prefer how HGIG looks overall, but I know DTM would help with dimmer scenes in general. Problem is, it's fine for the first ten minutes but then the brightness limiter bs kicks in and dramatically dims the image whenever the screen is dark.
Apparently there's no way to remove it.
You can decide to disable ALLM altogether if it's too much distracting for you, as SDR/HDR Game presets have the same identical accuracy of SDR ISF Dark and HDR Cinema once calibrated, so you don't actually have a real need to switch presets.
Sounds like ABL.
I bought a remote for £10 on Amazon to access the service menu and it completely fixed the problem for me.
I wouldn't risk messing with ABL and its consequent permanent burn-in possibility increase.
There are reasons why ABL exists in the first place.
yeah but it was driving me mad. It's a risk I'm willing to take. It affects some people more than others and I watch a large variety of content.
There's comments over the last few pages that the settings in the OP are not good for the CX series. If that's the case, does anyone have recommended settings for CX series?
Auto brightness limiter. Basically it causes the screen to dim after a certain period of time.
Not only after a certain period of time/inactivity, but also with brightest elements which could cause image retention and burn in.
OP on the PS5 with a 7 series oled should everything be set to automatic except for RGB range?
yeah when I check my current settings In ps5video menu I am getting 422 instead of rgb, I thought I was going crazy thinking I saw the my settings at rgb when I first set it up.
I am working out my cabling before I get the CX 48". Does anyone know the power cable length, please? (UK version, if it makes a difference). I understand its attached to the TV?
"This one" is as right as it can be.
There will always be debate about "DTM vs HGIG", so in this case just pick up what you personally prefer the most (just remember to lower Max HDR Luminance to 800 nits if you'll pick HGIG in the end).
Regarding Wide Gamut in SDR, you've just seen an uproar of image "purists" in the last few pages, but you can test its correctness yourself by downloading and running these very reliable calibration patterns (also used by Vincent Teoh in his most recent demonstrations on YT), which will work directly from your CX via USB (in MP4 format) and even without equipment.
If something SDR will be actually off with my settings, it will show there.
Otherwise you're good to go, so just enjoy your amazing TV without worrying anymore ;)
P40L0 Wide is wrong for SDR. This isn't a question of opinion it's a fact. Wide in SDR expands the gamut from the Rec.709 target. Basically it over saturates the color from where it should be.
If someone thinks that is correct then they're wrong. Same with increasing color from 50 to 55. It increases saturation past the target points.
If they don't think it's incorrect then they prefer over saturation of color which is fine but it is wrong. Not a debate, not an opinion, it's a fact.
See calibration charts below.
This is a 2020 CX OLED Targeting 2.2 REC.709 for ISF Day
Pre Cal is out of the box no changes in WIDE
Post Cal is Auto
When you have wide it expands the gamut to outside of REC.709. You can only fix it 1 of 2 ways. Either leave it wide and pull it in with heavy handed use of CMS, or change to Auto and still use CMS just not as heavily.
This is also the case when you increase color from 50 to 55. It increase saturation across the entire gamut. Color either pulls in or pushes out the Saturation globally across primaries and secondary's.
So technically both sets of settings are incorrect the ones where you say to use WIDE is incorrect and the ones saying to increase color from 50-55 are incorrect as well as you are increasing saturation beyond where it is supposed to be globally.
Pay close attention to the Gamut charts and the Data charts specially the highlighted parts. That is hard data, not up for debate or assumption. If you prefer something different that is fine. If you are stressing accuracy there should be no debate.
You're wrong man, sorry.
mikehaggar Bunzy tagging you just based on the questions you asked. The settings are wrong as you can see why in the explanation I gave above.
Your best bet is to honestly leave the settings default and only adjust OLED Light, Brightness, Contrast, Sharpness. Gamut is Auto, Color is 50.
** NOTE** My contact info on reports has been obfuscated out as well as the serial number from my meters. Page 3 has been removed as it contains the post calibration settings.
If someone thinks that is correct then they're wrong. Same with increasing color from 50 to 55. It increases saturation past the target points.
If they don't think it's incorrect then they prefer over saturation of color which is fine but it is wrong. Not a debate, not an opinion, it's a fact.
See calibration charts below.
This is a 2020 CX OLED Targeting 2.2 REC.709 for ISF Day
Pre Cal is out of the box no changes in WIDE
Post Cal is Auto
When you have wide it expands the gamut to outside of REC.709. You can only fix it 1 of 2 ways. Either leave it wide and pull it in with heavy handed use of CMS, or change to Auto and still use CMS just not as heavily.
This is also the case when you increase color from 50 to 55. It increase saturation across the entire gamut. Color either pulls in or pushes out the Saturation globally across primaries and secondary's.
So technically both sets of settings are incorrect the ones where you say to use WIDE is incorrect and the ones saying to increase color from 50-55 are incorrect as well as you are increasing saturation beyond where it is supposed to be globally.
Pay close attention to the Gamut charts and the Data charts specially the highlighted parts. That is hard data, not up for debate or assumption. If you prefer something different that is fine. If you are stressing accuracy there should be no debate.
You're wrong man, sorry.
mikehaggar Bunzy tagging you just based on the questions you asked. The settings are wrong as you can see why in the explanation I gave above.
Your best bet is to honestly leave the settings default and only adjust OLED Light, Brightness, Contrast, Sharpness. Gamut is Auto, Color is 50.
** NOTE** My contact info on reports has been obfuscated out as well as the serial number from my meters. Page 3 has been removed as it contains the post calibration settings.
Last edited:
Just want to make sure that these cables are cool with the XSX and PS5:
Are you supposed to change the input name? I thought you were supposed to change the 'icon' for lack of a better term.
It's not the name you need the change for HDMI, but the "icon" from anything you were using before to "PC" icon.
Well as you can see any actual proof that contradicts what is listed is ignored lol. Hate to see it 😂
This clarifies so much for me. Holy cow. Using this and the other video he did for the CX settings has my picture looking so good when playing games.
Can you turn that shit off without the remote? So annoying.
So just turn down color to 50 and gamut to auto for SDR? I'll try out your settings, but tbh OP's setting have been spot on for my eyes.P40L0 Wide is wrong for SDR. This isn't a question of opinion it's a fact. Wide in SDR expands the gamut from the Rec.709 target. Basically it over saturates the color from where it should be.
If someone thinks that is correct then they're wrong. Same with increasing color from 50 to 55. It increases saturation past the target points.
If they don't think it's incorrect then they prefer over saturation of color which is fine but it is wrong. Not a debate, not an opinion, it's a fact.
See calibration charts below.
This is a 2020 CX OLED Targeting 2.2 REC.709 for ISF Day
Pre Cal is out of the box no changes in WIDE
Post Cal is Auto
When you have wide it expands the gamut to outside of REC.709. You can only fix it 1 of 2 ways. Either leave it wide and pull it in with heavy handed use of CMS, or change to Auto and still use CMS just not as heavily.
This is also the case when you increase color from 50 to 55. It increase saturation across the entire gamut. Color either pulls in or pushes out the Saturation globally across primaries and secondary's.
So technically both sets of settings are incorrect the ones where you say to use WIDE is incorrect and the ones saying to increase color from 50-55 are incorrect as well as you are increasing saturation beyond where it is supposed to be globally.
Pay close attention to the Gamut charts and the Data charts specially the highlighted parts. That is hard data, not up for debate or assumption. If you prefer something different that is fine. If you are stressing accuracy there should be no debate.
You're wrong man, sorry.
mikehaggar Bunzy tagging you just based on the questions you asked. The settings are wrong as you can see why in the explanation I gave above.
Your best bet is to honestly leave the settings default and only adjust OLED Light, Brightness, Contrast, Sharpness. Gamut is Auto, Color is 50.
** NOTE** My contact info on reports has been obfuscated out as well as the serial number from my meters. Page 3 has been removed as it contains the post calibration settings.
Afraid not, you need to buy a remote to do it so you can access the service menu.
Once you have it only takes about 30 seconds to change.
50 and auto, will be as accurate as you can get it, within the settings, I spent longer than I care to admit, trying to get wide on a B7 to look like the rec709 colour space, was impossible ultimately, with reds/blue/green always looking off.
All good if you or anyone prefers wide, but it's absolutely not the option to use if you want accuracy.
Ok thank you, will definitely give it a shot! I feel like my eyes don't really work like everyone else's: they prefer medium over warm 2 and DTM over HGIG, so we'll see about these settings! 😂
Did you also try AVS .709 Patterns (MP4 version) directly reproduced via USB and webOS video player?
They were and still are very reliable for SDR Calibration and their 16-235 Color Steps and Color Clipping patterns are correct only when using Wide Gamut + Color 50, as you can test yourself:
My Surface Laptop 3, Samsung Galaxy S20 and MacBook Pro pre-calibrated displays results using these patterns are almost the same without changing anything there.
If it looks good to you that is fine. Again this is preference vs reference. One is reference, one is not. Doesn't mean you cannot use OPs settings if you like them. Myself and others are just stating that it is not accurate which is what OP has been trying to say and it is just not true.
To answer your question though that is correct. SDR is Auto and Color is 50
Those patterns are for clipping which is determined by luminance not Saturation which is what we are discussing when using Wide and increase color. The axis of luminance doesn't change with Wide or Color increase only the axis of Saturation....
Think of it this way...if you are over saturating color all of that color and all steps of that color are over saturated. You are just looking at the entire range being over saturated. If you adjust Luminance it raises the overall all brightness of those which will and can be seen in ramps and step patterns.
If you're using that pattern for saturation...you're using it wrong. If you want to test saturation you need to use SMTPE color bars and filters
Last edited:
Just a quick question are you using 50 for colour in game mode? Also when using PC mode SDR and HDR both looks more washed out to me is this something you could possibly test. I've the series X and C9 and is it set to 50 in SDR and HdrP40L0 Wide is wrong for SDR. This isn't a question of opinion it's a fact. Wide in SDR expands the gamut from the Rec.709 target. Basically it over saturates the color from where it should be.
If someone thinks that is correct then they're wrong. Same with increasing color from 50 to 55. It increases saturation past the target points.
If they don't think it's incorrect then they prefer over saturation of color which is fine but it is wrong. Not a debate, not an opinion, it's a fact.
See calibration charts below.
This is a 2020 CX OLED Targeting 2.2 REC.709 for ISF Day
Pre Cal is out of the box no changes in WIDE
Post Cal is Auto
When you have wide it expands the gamut to outside of REC.709. You can only fix it 1 of 2 ways. Either leave it wide and pull it in with heavy handed use of CMS, or change to Auto and still use CMS just not as heavily.
This is also the case when you increase color from 50 to 55. It increase saturation across the entire gamut. Color either pulls in or pushes out the Saturation globally across primaries and secondary's.
So technically both sets of settings are incorrect the ones where you say to use WIDE is incorrect and the ones saying to increase color from 50-55 are incorrect as well as you are increasing saturation beyond where it is supposed to be globally.
Pay close attention to the Gamut charts and the Data charts specially the highlighted parts. That is hard data, not up for debate or assumption. If you prefer something different that is fine. If you are stressing accuracy there should be no debate.
You're wrong man, sorry.
mikehaggar Bunzy tagging you just based on the questions you asked. The settings are wrong as you can see why in the explanation I gave above.
Your best bet is to honestly leave the settings default and only adjust OLED Light, Brightness, Contrast, Sharpness. Gamut is Auto, Color is 50.
** NOTE** My contact info on reports has been obfuscated out as well as the serial number from my meters. Page 3 has been removed as it contains the post calibration settings.
Yes using 50 on Game mode as well. I can test it out later on with PC Mode on a GX. I don't have a 9 series in my possession currently though I can ask someone to check it out on a 9 as well
50 HDR too. it would be good to know I assume the GX would show the same washed out look if indeed it is washed out. to my eye it does look like it but maybe it's not lol.
Just a +1 FrankNitty's info. He is correct. You are entitled to believe oversaturated colors look better, but calibration is about adhering to a standard. Deviate from that standard and you are no longer calibrating.
Sorry if there's an obvious answer to this, but are there recommended settings for 120hz mode on the b7? When I activate it in a game, the image looks really washed out. Is it just a matter of dropping brightness?
Follow this guide to access a popover that exposes that info:How can I tell if my ps5 is running in 4:4:4 rgb on the lg cx? I changed my input icon to pc?
this is what my settings look like currently on ps5, notice how it's saying yuv422 for hdr and non hdr settings. Wouldn't 4:4:4 output change that to RGB?
Basically press the green button on the remote several times.
