These are correct, and because of the added input lag in PC mode I've switched back to traditional game mode for SDR and HDR. I've done a lot of experimenting with settings here and on other sites and have come up with my own best settings that I really enjoy.
I do, yes. In SDR Game Mode you can mostly correct the oversaturated colors in locked Wide Color Gamut by setting Color to 39. The HDR brightness in PC Standard Picture mode unfortunately isn't actually fixing the dim tonemapping, but just taking that dim picture and blowing it out. Dynamic Contrast in either PC Game Mode or HDMI Game Mode also sadly does the same thing. It's unfortunate that LG made so many errors with this TV, but SDR Game Mode with Color 39 and HDR Game Mode with an external device to inject metadata is unfortunately the best solutions right now, in my opinion.
The 9 series is a major improvement over the 7 series. Proper gamut in SDR game mode, proper tonemapping in HDR game mode when there's no metadata present, better burn-in resistance, and of course all the benefits of HDMI 2.1. But the 10 series will be even better, and so on and so forth. So it depends how happy you are with your 7 and how long you're comfortable waiting.
Yes, W45 is considered the most accurate.
Oh yeah, absolutely. Believe it or not, I own an HDFury Linker but I am not using it. I spent a lot of money on it and a dongle to control it with my phone, but I just don't like the hassle... I also can't leave it in my setup chain as it doesn't support ARC. Ultimately I decided to get my HDR gaming fix on PC and am hoping that PS5 delivers metadata in its signal, which will fix the dim HDR, so I can finally play my HDR PS4 backlog without having to deal with plugging and unplugging the linker. I can literally fix the dim HDR on my B7 by just plugging something in, but I am that lazy lol.
I've found it the most accurate along with Game SDR color set to 43. I've seen people with other settings, so this may vary a bit between TV's. Best method is to try differents settings out and flip between game mode and technicolor expert (or another calibrated setting) and see what looks closest to you. Because game mode is forced to Wide Color Gamut it'll never look 100% the same.
That's very similar to my "old" Option 1 presets, therefore a perfectly viable alternative outside "PC Mode". I see no problems at all with it, it's just a matter of personal preferences.
As other users said, E9 is of course a superior TV in every aspect, but if it's worth over a thousand dollars more it's up to you.
I cannot test it directly, but I'm pretty sure X1X + PC HDR Standard input lag gets better when selecting 10-bit Color Depth opposed to 8-bit selection in X1X Video Settings.
Depends if you want a future proof TV which lasts for min 4-5 years or if you are comfortable upgrading every 2 years for some smaller improvements. My advice wait until 8K hits for the regular models which I'm hoping for to arrive next year or in 2021 if we're unlucky. The 7-series are still very good. I just reset my C7 as I thought it was a bit sluggish in WebOs. Now it feels like new again and fast in the menus.
Unfortunately, after weeks of test, I personally can confirm that option 2 also results in an added input lag on Xbox One X; I was hoping that this was only a personal placebo effect, but the increased input lag is real.
Because in "non-Game" and "non-PC Mode" presets, even with RealCinema enabled, there is still a bit of stutter during motion, especially on 24hz content.
Even set to 0 I have judder I'm watching the tennis on the amazon prime TV app and its not as smooth as the same app on my s10 plus
Yes, I tried for a couple of hours yesterday and, while all SDR presets in PC Mode have the same identical response of Game Mode, I indeed experienced a slightly more delay using PC HDR Standard compared to HDR Game profile playing BFV and Halo MCC at 60fps...
Option 1 HDR is overall great but, in my opinion, setting DC to high makes the picture extremely washed out to the point that the game look is highly changed and unrecognizable, surely not the HDR picture the developers want us to see.
To offset High DC color washing in HDR Game you have to use Wide Gamut + Color 48, Brightness 53 and Color Temperature W50.
If using injection would you recommend option 1 but with dc on?
No, Option 1 is only meant to be used natively for the TV, without third party external equipment like injectors.
Nope.
That's what I meant if I use injection but just disable dc would the other settings be accurate
With injection you can just mimic the webOS Calibrated HDR settings inside the HDR Game profile, but with Dynamic Contrast off.
I use these exact settings and still see a huge difference in colors. The image appears washed out and the difference from DC off/low/medium is tangible.
No "huge" color differences noticed on my B7, just a slight black crush but great PQ overall and steady low input lag.
I think it's really a matter of personal preference at this point:
Yes, with Option 1 (and "Game Console" input) we're 100% sure to have same 21ms low input lag for both SDR and HDR.
As long as you don't let the same screen sit for 5-10 hours every day it won't really be an issue. In most games you open menus, map, inventory etc, so the exact same picture frame won't be on the screen constantly. The only exception i can think of is Breath of the Wild which has the red hearts on screen constantly even in menus. In short, not an issue.
In one and half year of gaming usage, both sdr and hdr, I never noticed any sort of burn in.
I agree with all the statements above.
Exactly, you can't turn it off, so it will run a short cycle after 10 min and another longer cycle after 4 hours off.
I'm sorry to read that :(
