Right, but I am not sure that behavior should exist in the first place.
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HDTVTest "You've Been Doing PS5 [Adjust HDR] Wrong... Here's How to Get the Best Settings"
- Thread starter Deleted member 12323
- Start date
So this would mess up the look of games that don't support HGIG? Don't think I care enough to research that before every game I play and switch between settings.
I think I'll just adjust the settings of the three calibration settings as described and leave everything else as it is for now.
I think I'll just adjust the settings of the three calibration settings as described and leave everything else as it is for now.
It does not. That's why in that case, Vincent suggested in the video X900H owners just follow the on-screen directions. Or really, anyone with a TV that doesn't have HGIG.
Yeah I don't think so also, that's why I'm on Auto for RGB.
If a game uses system level calibration (which I believe quite a few do now on PS5 and XSX) or lets you set max luminance via slider then it supports HGIG. At this point HGIG is pretty much the default.
Just wondering where/what did you read about step 2 because I noticed the same thing?
I did a video on it here
[HDR] PS4 System Update 7.0 HDR Tuning Settings Explained + Tips
Our resident HDR gaming expert Adam Fairclough (aka @Evilboris) takes a look at the PS4 System Firmware update 7.0, which includes some new HDR Tuning settin...
m.youtube.com
It's my set as well, I got the 65" model in the summer, so I've been doing the reading and watching.
The issue is Vincent never showed how this effects actual games. I like the idea to tuning this, but it had to be supported of scientific method. He has the tools to do it.
He makes an assumption that you want to choose the darkest setting on for blacks, with the assumption that the calibration controls the floor, but then didn't back it up to show that in a game, blacks are now true blacks and not close to black. His assumption could be wrong, the "barely visible" value might actually test and calibrate to your your TVs lowest visible luminance and not the black level.
Not saying i think that, but the video is incomplete without showing it.
^^^ What I read is that you don't want to lose out on a significant amount of nits your display can handle by selecting a sun image in the first two steps of the calibration routine that is clearly visible. If the image is almost completely invisible (like it is for me in step one), leave it there since the amount of nits you are excluding is too small to care about.
However, as is the case for step two for me, if you can completely see the sun image before the next tweak makes it invisible, you will lose too much of your nit information by selecting the notch where the image is too visible. If you select the next invisible notch, yes it is a bit beyond what your display can handle, but not significantly so.
So with step one, my sun image is nearly-but-barely-not invisible, and with step two, my sun image is invisible by-just-a-hair. That maximizes what nit output my set can handle.
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LG CX does have HGIG, it's found in the dynamic tonemapping menu when Game Mode is enabled. HGIG is more accurate, but many people find dynamic tonemapping more pleasing due to its (generally) added brightness. In games that support HGIG though, it's best to use that, and then dynamic tonemapping only on titles that don't support HGIG.
Ok I understand what you're saying and that makes sense. I find it weird that there is that difference between the first and second screens.
LG CX does have HGIG, it's found in the dynamic tonemapping menu when Game Mode is enabled. HGIG is more accurate, but many people find dynamic tonemapping more pleasing due to its (generally) added brightness. In games that support HGIG though, it's best to use that, and then dynamic tonemapping only on titles that don't support HGIG.
You just reminded me with this screenshot that thanks to the PS+ bonus, I actually have this game to play now.
I was a big Days Gone stan just playing it on PS4 Pro at launch, it's incredible on PS5.
That's not accurate. Vincent spoke about two types of displays when describing how to adjust the third step of PS5's HDR calibration process.
He said that owners of both OLEDs and LEDs with dimming zones (which the X900H does support) should dial down the setting all the way to zero because both types of displays support absolute zero black levels. He says the LEDs with dimming zones achieve this by simply turning the LEDs in a particular zone off completely.
In the video, Vincent mentions that step one and two were the same value for him on that display he was using. As you know, that's not the case for our X900H. So that's why I found the extra information I posted above about what to do when there is no clear answer. Like you pointed out, it makes sense to do it separately this way for them both.
Oops, I stand corrected. I missed this dimming zone part, I only remember him saying the X900H doesn't have HGIG, so going one point past might not be such a great idea in this case. Also something about how some TVs don't like it if you set the black all the way to zero and will fluctuate as a result, so if you have one of those models, then have the black setting up by one point, just for safety.
Do we have a list of titles that support it? All I can find online is that MW and NMS support it.LG CX does have HGIG, it's found in the dynamic tonemapping menu when Game Mode is enabled. HGIG is more accurate, but many people find dynamic tonemapping more pleasing due to its (generally) added brightness. In games that support HGIG though, it's best to use that, and then dynamic tonemapping only on titles that don't support HGIG.
So if I'm using a basic LED 4K HDR TV with no dimming zones (Sony x800D in my case) I should not bottom out the third step, and instead follow the on screen directions?
Anything that uses system level calibrations (ie doesn't have it's own HDR adjustment in game) will support it now which is quite a few of the launch games on PS5. And it's generally recommended to be used as well in games with in game sliders that let you set max luminance.
This all makes sense, but to clarify, it seems that he says that for gaming, making sure the PS5 is outputting RGB full is what should be done. The only reason he suggests automatic is if you're using the PS5 as a UHD player? So if you won't be doing any video playback on the PS5 it seems easier to just set the PS5 to Full and the TV to the corresponding black level on the input you're using (assuming your actual disc player is on another input and can have a separate black level setting, like on an LG OLED).
Oh I think I understand. So any game that let's use adjust the nits then use hgig? So like avengers game I read you put the nits at 800 if you use hgig but if you use DTM you put it at 4000. I have an lg cx by the way.
He explains that his best guess is that the HDR system settings are probably designed for typical living spaces with some lighting. Best viewing for OLED is in a dark room where you probably want those inky blacks.
Yep. If I'm understanding the process correctly, step one of the HGIG calibration process on both PS5 and Xbox is essentially the same thing you are doing in any game that lets you set max nits.
HGIG just turns off all TV level tonemapping and depends on the source device for that tonemapping. So with HGIG off on an LG CX you might be able to set in-game nits to 4000 before you see clipping, because the TV is adjusting the curve for up to 4000 nits. With HGIG on, you might see that clipping closer to 800 nits since that's the actual peak brightness of the display. This way the curve used is exactly what the game wanted with no interference from the TV.
Games that are specifically HGIG are things like Call of Duty: Black Ops - Cold War and No Man's Sky that refer to the PS5's HDR calibration (what this video is about) for tonemapping.
I watched the video, and love Vincent's stuff, but am slightly confused by this one.
The video seems to work on the assumption that the icons themselves represent the 'peak' brightness/darkness of your display. But surely the background white/black is actually the peak, and by trying to keep the icons visible you're actually setting your 'near peak' white/black values to prevent loss of detail at the extreme ends of light and dark?
I must be misunderstanding somewhere, if anyone could explain?
The video seems to work on the assumption that the icons themselves represent the 'peak' brightness/darkness of your display. But surely the background white/black is actually the peak, and by trying to keep the icons visible you're actually setting your 'near peak' white/black values to prevent loss of detail at the extreme ends of light and dark?
I must be misunderstanding somewhere, if anyone could explain?
For that part, he said the opposite. His point was that if your display supports LED dimming zones (like the X900H), then selecting a notch or two above absolute zero for step 3 of the PS5's HDR calibration process may result in unwanted black flickering. He emphasizes several times to turn that setting all the way down for OLEDs and LEDs with dimming zones.
According to Vincent in the video, that is correct.
Yes, that's the general idea. The problem with the PS5 is that the gradients between levels are way to big. Each increment is ~100 nits. So by setting it one click down (~850+ nits) you are potentially missing out on another 100 nits of brightness in a 1,000 nit display. Because of that Vincent is recommending going one level up even though it may result in potential clipping. If the gradients were smaller then he would probably change his recommendation.
Wow, I totally misunderstood that part. Thanks for the course correct.
I understand that, what I want to know is which is going to give the best results.
Limited and Low Black Level
Full and High Black level
Auto RGB and Auto Black level.
Actually makes you wonder what the point of auto is at all right now, unless I'm missing something. It doesn't seem like there is any scenario where auto will switch to limited while in HDR. He mentions in the video that when you use the Blu Ray player app it switches to SDR, thus sending a YCbCr signal and inherently being limited regardless of the system level RGB setting.
So I'm not seeing a scenario where automatic is beneficial in switching to limited in HDR.
It shouldn't make any difference unless there's a quirk somewhere in your setup. If you're on an lg leave them on auto. Otherwise just make sure they match.
Auto and Auto is Vincents recommendation for oled CX. I have C9 and it's working fine on PC mode for me with them settings.
Full and High Black level
Auto RGB and Auto Black level.
^ are the best settings for gaming on a HDR television
Miles Morales is still quite dark with these settings.
Guess that's just the way the game is meant to look.
Guess that's just the way the game is meant to look.
I followed the instructions, except using HGIG. Have an LG CX here and these settings made Demons Souls look a bit better. I tested the area right before flamelurker to test out the black level and it looks good. Areas like the valley still have a tint to them, but it looks like you can get rid of it by saving a preset in photo mode with the shadow color balance sliders set to 0, as opposed to one. I suggest others to try this out and see how it looks.
Have an LG C9, turned on HGIG and followed these steps. The image is definitely a bit dimmer, but i'm not sure if it's any "better". Definitely looks good, i just need to get used to the slightly dimmer picture
My CX is definitely not "hand shaking" properly with my ps5 when I set them both to auto. Playing Demon's Souls I set it to low for both the console and the tv. Should I set them to high? Everyone seems to suggest low. It looks fine this way to me.
This is my concern. That's why I've stayed with the calibration in the LC OLED calibration thread. I don't want games that don't support HGIG to look off.
Why leave out HGIG? All you're doing is adding an extra tone mapping step to the chain.
The only way it would be dimmer on an LG is if you were using dynamic tone mapping before.