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HDTVTest "You've Been Doing PS5 [Adjust HDR] Wrong... Here's How to Get the Best Settings"
- Thread starter Deleted member 12323
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Yeah I was going by eye on those icons, and HGIG was way too dark and I was right back to dynamic tone mapping. Saw this video earlier and now it looks much better, still a little darker but the whites actually look correct and I dont lose a ton of detail in dark areas.
Basically: On the LG CX, for the first 2 screens on PS5 hold down to bottom out the settings, then press up 14 times. On the last screen just bottom it out
Basically: On the LG CX, for the first 2 screens on PS5 hold down to bottom out the settings, then press up 14 times. On the last screen just bottom it out
The on-screen directions says to set each slider till the symbol is barely visible. But he demonstrates how that actually isn't getting the full usage of your display.
is there a TLDR how to we know what's the best adjustments for our personal TV sets?
TL;DW:
Turn on HGIG
Set Black Level/RGB Range to Auto
HDR Settings 1 and 2: Go one notch above what you can "barely see". So leave on the one where the sun disappears for the first time.
HDR Setting 3: Go all the way down. As dark as possible.
Turn on HGIG
Set Black Level/RGB Range to Auto
HDR Settings 1 and 2: Go one notch above what you can "barely see". So leave on the one where the sun disappears for the first time.
HDR Setting 3: Go all the way down. As dark as possible.
No.
Basically set the first two sliders till the symbol just fully disappears completely. The third symbol you'll want to put to the lowest setting possible for OLED, tho if your room is bright or you're on an LCD you might want to raise it a bit till the symbol is just barely visible, then knock it down till it just disappears.
How certain is this guy that the calibration is telling the PS5 exactly where the limits of your display are at the "just barely visible" step, and that it's not setting those limits at the level just beyond the step you set (because it already knows your display is capable of higher brightness in the surrounding white area)?
Can that hdr/vrr/hdmi 2.1/dolbyvision/120hz bullshit get any more complicated to use? Let's find out in a couple of days when a new vid will be out explaining why everything is fucked all over again!
OP
OP
Should be clarified this video is meant for people with displays with the HGIG setting because this does no tone mapping, like the recent OLEDs. For people with a Sony TV for example which do not have this setting, if you go back and watch his Miles Morales video and read the comments in addition to this one he mentions to just follow the PS5 on screen instructions with the barely visible image (at least the first two screens; I believe last one should always be lowest no matter the display as this is true black/zero nits and he mentions LEDs even turn off backlight when it reads 0 nits).
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Worked better for me. I was finding my CX too dark in shadow scenes and stuff. Seems better now.
For non-HGIG displays, which is 90%+ of TVs in homes right now, I think best practices are to follow the on-screen instructions for black point, but follow Vincent's advice for the two white point screens, so go one step above "barely visible."
I think That's a good point. But it'd be weird for Sony to set up the calibration screen that way when there has been games that use a calibration screen that say make both sides look identical white.
They could have done something like that but didn't. But I agree I don't think we know 100% for sure what Sony does behind the scenes of this setup.
The HDR Calibration Tool on the Xbox tells you to keep ticking right until the white squares disappear, so I think you'll be fine.
Think there's enough variance in OLED panels that other people might have to press up 13 or 15 times.
I mean, they're telling us to step up until the sun is just barely visible. The obvious logic there is "this display is capable of one step higher of brightness, because there's a difference between the sun and the background." It would be awfully strange for Sony to give us those instructions and then limit the peak brightness to whatever the sun image is at, and not what the background is at.
I thought half the games don't support or use HGIG
wouldn't it be be better to just adjust to default tone mapping?
not all games are created equal. I know the HGIG method does not work well at all with assassins creed from what i remember.
wouldn't it be be better to just adjust to default tone mapping?
not all games are created equal. I know the HGIG method does not work well at all with assassins creed from what i remember.
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But one step after barely visible to invisible means it's clipped right? Which isn't good. So they have it set up so you have as bright a screen as possible without clipping highlights. The problem is the "sun is barely visible" is very visible and the jump in nits for each tick is too much.
What I'm saying is that Sony may have accounted for that in its settings and it's not clear this guy knows if that's the case or not. He's suggesting that the peak brightness is being set based on the sun image, but I'm not at all sure that's what Sony is doing. It wouldn't make sense to tell us to set it so we can see the sun, and ignore the fact that this means our displays are capable of a brighter step in the background.
Yes and I agree. We don't know what Sony is doing behind the scenes. My point was there are easier ways to set up a calibration page if that was their goal. There are some calibration pages that have you tick half a grey slide to match a white slide so they know exactly when your display clips.
The way Sony is setting this up isn't great because it leaves wasted unused nits.
If Sony was going behind the scenes and making it so they actually move your calibration 1 tick post you doing it, they could have just said make it so the sun dissappears. But they didn't. So I'm led to believe they're not changing anything. Otherwise why would they make everyone do the process incorrectly.
There's a gap of 150 nits between almost invisible and invisible. That's not good. Those ticks would be much better if they were like 20 nits but they probably were worried people would go screw this and not set it up. Sony doesn't have accurate enough information to make a slight tweak behind the scenes if my display could still go an extra 130+ nits. VS someone else's display Which is actually sun almost invisible and only has like an extra 20-40 nits.
Ahh, didn't know. Thanks for posting OP. Just reset my stuff, feels a tad better? Who knows, but I like it.
Yes, I'm sure it was designed for user friendliness, opting for a balance between efficacy and ease, and that's probably a wise decision. It would be nice if they included an advanced option, but few people are as concerned with the exactitude in play here like we are, and there are products to satisfy our needs.
yes, when i enable HGIG i cannot even do the sun being barely noticeable its just fucking there or gone. Also my screen dropped a lot of overall brightness switching to HGIG. I'll stick with it to test, but overall the image just seems too dark.
Some games that don't support HGIG look off when it's used compared to Dynamic Tone Map, namely Ghost of Tsushima, but still good settings to have. Is there any list or indicator of which games support HGIG?
I found the PS5's HDR Calibration set-up to be very lackluster and somehow inferior to the Xbox's which was also not great. Considering PS5 forces HDR for SDR content by tone maping it you'd think they'd put more effort to get it right
I found the PS5's HDR Calibration set-up to be very lackluster and somehow inferior to the Xbox's which was also not great. Considering PS5 forces HDR for SDR content by tone maping it you'd think they'd put more effort to get it right
we got like 3?
No Man's Sky
Call of Duty
and potentially the new gran turismo? I mean the new OLED panels are the only thing that have HGIG
Yeah its kinda pick your poison situation for oled. Lose 100-150 nits of brightness. But you don't lose any detail. Or clip detail but you get your tvs full brightness potential.
Considering there's a large gap from barely visible (still verrry visible) to invisible. I can't image it's clipping 100 nits of brightness if you go over. Maybe it's closer to 25-50. If that's the case clipping a little bit vs losing a solid chunk of brightness makes it an easy choice.
The problem that's causing me anxiety is if Sony takes a calibration page and goes. "Cool this is where they set it up so they can still see the sun, lets brighten it up one more tick for them and we're good to go".
And us going one tick above is actually 2. But that's just enough doubt for my anxiety to kick in lmao.
Considering there's a large gap from barely visible (still verrry visible) to invisible. I can't image it's clipping 100 nits of brightness if you go over. Maybe it's closer to 25-50. If that's the case clipping a little bit vs losing a solid chunk of brightness makes it an easy choice.
The problem that's causing me anxiety is if Sony takes a calibration page and goes. "Cool this is where they set it up so they can still see the sun, lets brighten it up one more tick for them and we're good to go".
And us going one tick above is actually 2. But that's just enough doubt for my anxiety to kick in lmao.
Just did this and the difference is very noticeable! I think going all the way down on HDR setting 3 is what I'm noticing most. Demon's Souls looks fantastic. Going to see how other games, especially AC Valhalla, look now.
I have a question I'm hoping someone in this thread can answer as I try to figure out how to configure HDR properly.
According to rtings, my Sony x900e has peak HDR around 800 or 900 cd/m.
Are these values what I should be setting maximum luminance to into games for HDR? In AC Valhalla the picture stopped getting brighter after 1,000 so I left it at 1,000. But is that screwing up my image?
According to rtings, my Sony x900e has peak HDR around 800 or 900 cd/m.
Are these values what I should be setting maximum luminance to into games for HDR? In AC Valhalla the picture stopped getting brighter after 1,000 so I left it at 1,000. But is that screwing up my image?
not gonna lie it's a bit of a pain and since there is no standard(Dolby vision) being used you have to adjust for each game.
QLED's support HGIG