Dark1x I found a Toshiba 16:9 HD CRT with HDMI input locally. Going to pick it up on Thursday. What do I need to know going in, lol?
So, I should connect my SNES Classic instead of my actual SNES?John will know more than me, but I do know that these 16:9 CRT televisions often don't play nicely with 240p retrogaming. It may try to 'deinterlace' the video, and it may buffer all legacy SD video, creating lag. It will most likely scan either 1080p or 1080i natively, and may scan 480p natively as well. The actual displayed horizontal resolution will be far less than 1920.
So, I should connect my SNES Classic instead of my actual SNES?
But it should be ok for PC use?
Yeah, I'll still have my ultrawide monitor, but I'll be using the TV for nostalgia gaming.I mean, try everything you've got. I'm making generalizations.
For PC use it should handle 1080p/60 or 1080i/60. Text may be blurred because like I said the actual optical resolution of the set won't resolve 1920 pixels across; the wideband video amplifier and the shadow mask or aperture grille won't be that fine because it's a TV not a PC monitor.
Yeah, I'll still have my ultrawide monitor, but I'll be using the TV for nostalgia gaming.
When using the crt as a gaming or htpc screen it'll do fine, it's Windows that's going to look like shit text wise. I used my Sony XBR970 as a htpc display with my computer and all my DVD and Blu-ray rips looked like I was playing them from my PS3 from XBMC(Kodi now), even stuff with subtitles. Games also were fine.
But the actual OS? Uh. Usable, but not pretty.
If somehow there was a way via new techs to make new crt screens without the problems of old ones, the size etc... i could see that trend working.
I mean, not only the fluidity but also playing modern indie pixel art games on this would be amazing.
As it's a consumer TV set rather than a monitor, the line count isn't likely to be significant. Those types of displays are perfectly suited for systems that do 480p like Xbox, GC and the Wii. Could be great for PS3 and 360 as well.Dark1x I found a Toshiba 16:9 HD CRT with HDMI input locally. Going to pick it up on Thursday. What do I need to know going in, lol?
Cool, I plan on having the Wii and Wii U connected to it, and using it to play older PC games that don't play well with my Ultrawide monitor. I guess I'll see how it pans out. Interestingly, the only Toshiba CRTs with HDMI I've been able to find info on were monitors as opposed to TVs. I guess I'll find out when I pick it up tomorrow.As it's a consumer TV set rather than a monitor, the line count isn't likely to be significant. Those types of displays are perfectly suited for systems that do 480p like Xbox, GC and the Wii. Could be great for PS3 and 360 as well.
It doesn't operate quite the same way, but that is what black frame insertion tries to do - which is why "120Hz BFI" on the CX OLEDs was a big deal in my opinion.Why *are* they so good - and why haven't any panel manufacturers tried to capture some of those benefits?
Eg could you 'scan' a fixed resolution display and have each pixel with a 'fade' time to simulate a CRT refresh? Woudl that bring any motion resolution benefits?
It looks like the adjustments for that particular monitor are made with potentiometers on one of the boards on the side, rather than magnetic strips on the neck of the tube - so it's not quite as bad.I have one of these CRTS that I got for free in the hospital I work at (they were throwing it out for a modern tv):
That's not my photo but it looks pretty identical to that except it has bigger speakers attached on the side.
However it the image needs to be aligned correctly and I don't have the balls to do it. Seems super awkward :( It's mis-aligned so a good bit of the left is cut off.
It doesn't operate quite the same way, but that is what black frame insertion tries to do - which is why "120Hz BFI" on the CX OLEDs was a big deal in my opinion.
It drops the persistence (image hold time) from 8.33ms to 4.17ms at 120Hz, or 16.7ms to 4.17ms at 60Hz (rather than 8.33ms on older models).
The drawback is that it flickers badly, and loses a lot of brightness at 60Hz. Its implementation is far from ideal.
It looks like the adjustments for that particular monitor are made with potentiometers on one of the boards on the side, rather than magnetic strips on the neck of the tube - so it's not quite as bad.
I would recommend using a plastic screwdriver so you can't short anything out.
The board is loose here because he has just replaced all the capacitors on it (not sure why he didn't fix it in place first).
It would be tedious, but you could probably make those adjustments without it running if you're really hesitant about it. Note: that does not mean all of the internal components are safe to touch - they may still hold a charge. The main danger inside a CRT is the anode, which is connected to the tube - and not something that you would be near when adjusting that board.
Fortunately the majority of PC monitors have digital geometry controls, and I believe that's also true for later PVM/BVM models.
I know this is an older thread now, but I happened to find this review last night which I thought was excellent at going into detail about why CRTs are so good:
I've still not been able to find anything worthwhile where I am. I'm pretty sure most were scrapped/recycled years ago.
Sony GDM-FW900, Sun FW9010, SGI FW9011, HP A7217AWhat are all the alternate names for FW900 model [from Sony and other brands that used it]?