Well I now went with double protection with some tire lining and new puncture resistant tube. LA roads are too full of crap that wants to puncture my tires...
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Bicycle ERA |OT| This Is Why
- Thread starter Jill Sandwich
- Start date
Do any of you think that the IQ^2 power meter's that are on Indigogo right now are a real/working "thing"?
Been eying to get into power meters but the price has always held me back.
Been eying to get into power meters but the price has always held me back.
https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2018/04/iq2-149eur-first-power-meter.html
Not sure if he's looked at it again since.
Unrelated, managed to hit up a couple of trails in Indiana. Both of them were quite enjoyable, even if it was way too fucking hot.
Also, had a bit more wildlife than my normal rides...
Missus managed to see this:
Not sure if he's looked at it again since.
Unrelated, managed to hit up a couple of trails in Indiana. Both of them were quite enjoyable, even if it was way too fucking hot.
Also, had a bit more wildlife than my normal rides...
Missus managed to see this:
Did my 29mi/1200ft today. Heart rate was about 15 to 20 beats above where I would have liked it, but there are a number of possible reasons for that (heat, massive amounts of pollen, still recovering, etc.). Otherwise it went well.
Tomorrow I'm planning to do 45mi/2000ft. If I get to mile 18 and I'm feeling bad I can bail out with a pretty short route back to the start. If I feel good I can add on an extra 12 miles/900ft. It's supposed to be a lot cooler, too.
Tomorrow I'm planning to do 45mi/2000ft. If I get to mile 18 and I'm feeling bad I can bail out with a pretty short route back to the start. If I feel good I can add on an extra 12 miles/900ft. It's supposed to be a lot cooler, too.
I need your help, Era. What am I doing wrong?
It's a Diamondback Edgewood bicycle. I just finished assembling the bike, but the fork/tire is not aligned with the handlebars.
Sorry for my English. Not my primary language. I don't know the name of the parts.
If I hold the wheel and move the handlebars, I can straighten the wheel, but it will move again if I ride like that.
What part should I adjust?
It's a Diamondback Edgewood bicycle. I just finished assembling the bike, but the fork/tire is not aligned with the handlebars.
Sorry for my English. Not my primary language. I don't know the name of the parts.
If I hold the wheel and move the handlebars, I can straighten the wheel, but it will move again if I ride like that.
What part should I adjust?
I need your help, Era. What am I doing wrong?
It's a Diamondback Edgewood bicycle. I just finished assembling the bike, but the fork/tire is not aligned with the handlebars.
Sorry for my English. Not my primary language. I don't know the name of the parts.
If I hold the wheel and move the handlebars, I can straighten the wheel, but it will move again if I ride like that.
What part should I adjust?
Video help.
The bolt on the stem that plunges right down the steering axis is connected to an expander wedge that locks the stem to the fork's steerer. Loosen the bolt, align the handlebars, re-tighten the bolt to somewhat tighter than its current tightness.
Do not raise the stem so high that its minimum insertion line is visible. Also do not lower the stem completely to minimum height, because the expander might not interface correctly with butting at the bottom of the steerer.
Do not raise the stem so high that its minimum insertion line is visible. Also do not lower the stem completely to minimum height, because the expander might not interface correctly with butting at the bottom of the steerer.
So, I just tried my bike. Haven't rode a bike since I was a teenager. I'm planning to commute to work on it... 2 miles each way, a short ride.
But I just did a short ride around the block... I'm exhausted as fuck. I feel I'm not going to make it.
Damn.
But I just did a short ride around the block... I'm exhausted as fuck. I feel I'm not going to make it.
Damn.
Ventured out to Cwmcarn today. God I'm in terrible shape. Failed to clean a bunch of the climbs and got rattled to pieces on the downs (likely due to poor form and conditioning).
I don't like the new me. :(
I don't like the new me. :(
Well, today I woke up with pain in my buttocks. Do I need a better saddle or was it because it was my first ride in years?
I don't remember getting a sore ass when I was younger, and I used to ride cheap ass Walmart bikes.
Everything is easier when you're younger.
Give it a couple of weeks and if you're still getting pain then you can investigate a better saddle. Chances are it's just short term though.
Give it a couple of weeks and if you're still getting pain then you can investigate a better saddle. Chances are it's just short term though.
So my notifications were off for some reason.
I unwatched and rewatched the thread, hope that fixes it.
I went to France last week to ride in the Alps. Had an amazing time.
Huez, Villard Reculas, Deux Alpes, the Balcony, la Berarde and Col d'Ornon boxes ticked.
Now it's time for the 11/25 again on the Dutch flats... And my new carbon wheels :D
I unwatched and rewatched the thread, hope that fixes it.
I went to France last week to ride in the Alps. Had an amazing time.
Huez, Villard Reculas, Deux Alpes, the Balcony, la Berarde and Col d'Ornon boxes ticked.
Now it's time for the 11/25 again on the Dutch flats... And my new carbon wheels :D
It will take a few weeks probably to get used to the saddle. If after a few weeks it still hurts then maybe look at getting a different one/style. Mine is hard as a rock but I don't even feel it anymore.
Also if you are going over a bump practice putting your weight on your feet for that split second. I ride a single speed with no suspension and for bumps I just lift my butt a small bit before the bump.
If you are just starting out take it easy. No need to push yourself and be a sweaty mess at work. After a while you can up your speed.
I spent the weekend in Aviemore in Scotland on the MTB. Glorious weather, and amazing scenery. Like this shot of yours truly.
I clocked up 500km last month commuting, unfortunately nothing as pretty as the pics in here enroute :(
57 miles/3700 feet today. Some of those climbs were not so graceful but I did every one and kept going. Did all the gravel and dirt sections without falling off my bike, so that's a plus.
Ass started hurting after 30 miles, so that never ending headache continues.
Ass started hurting after 30 miles, so that never ending headache continues.
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I think it's time you pony up for a top tier fitting: http://ibfi-certification.com/find-a-fitter/
Or you can try Bike Fit Advisors online option: http://bikefitadviser.com/online-bike-fit-consulting/
Is this really the case? Hm in this case I will have to be a bit careful when having to change tires.
So got my Quick 2 yesterday, including Mudguards a Rack and back panniers (for commuting or mostly when doing bigger grocery runs). Quite like the bike took it out for a 75 minutes ride today and man it's so much easier to keep up speed with it then my old shitty bike. Like it a lot. The Schwalbe Marathon Tyres feel good, and upgraded to some decent flat pedals which give way better grip then the standard ones. Overall quite happy, gearing is not something I would like if I had to climb long steep ascends for my commute but for rolling hills and it's pretty nice, even though you can spin it out when on a slight descent. Actually looking forward to my 26k commute on Tuesday :)
A 400 fitting should have solved your problem though. 90% of the time saddle discomfort is from fit issues
I'm assuming you've tried cut outs?
Consider the nuclear option of an Selle SMP?
Tried T vs Pear, long vs short, etc?
What in particular is hurting, is it chafing or bruising? Is the pain farther back where the sit region is wider or farther forward where it's narrower? Does the saddle feel like it's forcing you to sit a certain way in a certain place on it? Do you have any issues with your thighs rubbing the saddle's nose as you pedal?
I've tried a few different saddles but nothing terribly out of the ordinary.
I like my shorts now, though, at least. They are probably the best fitting on me of all the various ones I've tried (Castelli Velocissimo IV)
I mean, if you have the results from the fittings, it may not hurt to pay another $75-150 for bikefitadvisor to give a second opinion.
But yeah, what HTupolev said
It's really just that my sitbones start to hurt/get sore. My cheapo Giant saddle has actually been one of the better I've tried. It's pretty much flat and it's slippery so I can move on it easily. The Specialized saddles I have had have a raised rear, so they limit my position somewhat, and are textured so are more likely to cause friction against my sitbones (that usually shows up as burning).
Today I was on the Giant.
To me it seems like you need something that is less angled at the end. I have problems with Specailized saddles because teh rear tapper is too steep so I end up sitting more on the angles. They tend to need to be back a bit more than others, but I just can't get on with them.
Have you demoed a Fizik Arione yet, or maybe something from Selle Italia? The Selle Italia profiles tend to be more pear shaped meaning they're flat without a sharp taper on the wider parts. I've also been really happy with the Fabric Scoop Flat on my trainer set up, but prefer the Shallow when out on the road.
Oh and how "soft" have the saddles been? I just can't ride gel or heavily padded saddles. My sit bones, even in bibs, just dig in and end up going numb in 20 minutes.
Hmm.
If you're someone who rotates their hips forward and rests on a fairly narrow part of your sitbones, you might try moving the specialized saddles a bit farther back. Some people can sit fairly far forward on modern saddles without much trouble.
With bone soreness being your main complaint, if you're interested in a weird alternative option, I'd recommmend maybe trying an Avocet Touring 1, which were made circa 1980 and are still readily available on ebay. Between their flexy underbelly and mildly more padding than most current-gen road saddles, they ride extremely plush without being obnoxiously squishy like a comfort hybrid saddle. And the design of the nose makes the rivet area usable enough that it can maintain aggressive road attitude, despite being a "touring" saddle. I'd recommend fitting it with the main stretch of nose slightly inclined, as otherwise it can push you forward when you're riding in a neutral position.
The nose tapers off pretty widely, so if thigh pedaling chafing is a problem for you then I wouldn't recommend it. And if you have issues with groin numbness then it may also not be an optimal option. It would also look weird as hell on a modern road bike, and it's not light.
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Hi guys and gals! I've been speaking to Blue about bicycles and what would be best. He has given great advice, but hopefully someone can answer a question I have since I'm going to the shop tomorrow morning. I'm a heavy dude and got the advice I need a steel fork and a rigid bike. Also, that I will probably have to get a different wheel set.
With that out of that way, I'm looking at The Trek Verve 1. Seems perfect for me as of now since I can't do all the fun stuff like hitting rough trails. Is the Verve 1 considered a rigid bike? I know it has a steel fork, but I'm unsure about the rest. Any help would be appreciated.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...n-bikes/verve/verve-1/p/17054/?colorCode=grey
With that out of that way, I'm looking at The Trek Verve 1. Seems perfect for me as of now since I can't do all the fun stuff like hitting rough trails. Is the Verve 1 considered a rigid bike? I know it has a steel fork, but I'm unsure about the rest. Any help would be appreciated.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...n-bikes/verve/verve-1/p/17054/?colorCode=grey
Yes. "Rigid" means that the frame and fork do not have any built-in suspension mechanisms.
By contrast. Something like the 820 is considered to be not rigid because it has a suspension fork. Some mountain bikes have suspension for the rear wheel as well, such asthis
What would you consider to be "rough trails"?
If you're envisioning just a bumpy unpaved surface, like this...
...then you're probably okay, but if you want to be smashing your way over huge tree roots and making big drops, then the Verve is not something I'd recommend.
Lack of suspension just isn't a good idea for serious mountain biking unless you're a very technically-proficient rider looking for a certain kind of challenge. And the designs of both the rear hub and the steerer just aren't built for withstanding impacts under a heavy rider. Furthermore, that bike is a comfort hybrid, and the geometries of those bikes simply don't tend to lend themselves to technical handling.
Heh. I totally passed out yesterday evening. Was a nice nap. Anyway...
I'm willing to look at anything at this point. Regarding the softness, the first Specialized saddle I had was one step above the completely hard saddle and I found my sitbones sunk right through and hit the hard plastic. I then went to the next level softness with the Avatar, but even though it doesn't have that issue it didn't solve my problems overall.
I wish it was a little easier to try out a whole bunch of different saddles. My LBS does have a decent policy about returning saddles that aren't working for you but what I really need is a saddle lending library :)
A lot of LBSs have trial saddles. They're usually some crazy colour so you don't keep them.
See if you have a Fizik or Specialized dealer near you.
See if you have a Fizik or Specialized dealer near you.
A few months back I noticed this series of videos with the hashtag #couchtokanza. This was two recreational riders (so not truly "couch") who got into the Dirty Kanza 200 in January and were going to train and do it (it was this past weekend).
Neither had done a gravel event or a century, much less a 200 mile event. My first impression, before even finding out their whole history was this was a VERY BAD IDEA.
Spoiler: they gave up halfway because they wouldn't make the 3rd checkpoint in time and the guy was throwing up.
Neither had done a gravel event or a century, much less a 200 mile event. My first impression, before even finding out their whole history was this was a VERY BAD IDEA.
Spoiler: they gave up halfway because they wouldn't make the 3rd checkpoint in time and the guy was throwing up.
Call me a pussy, but I'm really sold on the idea of a ramp test with TrainerRoad rather than their standard FTP test: http://blog.trainerroad.com/new-ramp-test-makes-ftp-testing-more-efficient-and-less-stressful/
I've lost count of the amount of times I've had to stop myself throwing up after doing their old test.
Edit - That's not even close to enough time to train for an event that hard. I'd have wanted at least 9 months.
I've lost count of the amount of times I've had to stop myself throwing up after doing their old test.
Edit - That's not even close to enough time to train for an event that hard. I'd have wanted at least 9 months.
Thinking about starting to cycle my commute in London, which would be roughly 10k (one way). Basically new to cycling, other than the occasional rented bike ride for 30 mins since my childhood.
Noticed a few people in the office with Bromptons, which seems really handy given that I live in a 2nd floor flat (and there's steps to the front door as well), so getting a standard bike up and down every day, as well as storing it would be an annoyance. I do have a garden, but it's annoying to get to from the flat, and probably wouldn't be keen on leaving a bike in there despite it being a very residential and quiet area.
Is a Brompton worth it above other brands - or is it just branding? If so, what are my most affordable options (£1000 from Evans, or go second hand)? Should I just get a non-folding bike? Want something that would get me to work and let me explore without too much effort - but not interested in any races or high performance anytime soon.
Noticed a few people in the office with Bromptons, which seems really handy given that I live in a 2nd floor flat (and there's steps to the front door as well), so getting a standard bike up and down every day, as well as storing it would be an annoyance. I do have a garden, but it's annoying to get to from the flat, and probably wouldn't be keen on leaving a bike in there despite it being a very residential and quiet area.
Is a Brompton worth it above other brands - or is it just branding? If so, what are my most affordable options (£1000 from Evans, or go second hand)? Should I just get a non-folding bike? Want something that would get me to work and let me explore without too much effort - but not interested in any races or high performance anytime soon.
Doing 10k on a Brompton one way will definitely result in arriving at the office sweaty.
Those things are made for 5k commutes at max imho.
The small wheels mean a greater effort from your end.
I think a hybrid bike should tick all the boxes. They're light, so easy to lift up the flat with you and they are more than capable of the 10k commute. The geometry isn't sport or race oriented either.
Going 2nd is always a good idea. Especially on your first bike purchase and if you're hoing to try it out first.
Spending £1k on a first purchase is a bit of gamble. Test the water and then find out what you really want.
Those things are made for 5k commutes at max imho.
The small wheels mean a greater effort from your end.
I think a hybrid bike should tick all the boxes. They're light, so easy to lift up the flat with you and they are more than capable of the 10k commute. The geometry isn't sport or race oriented either.
Going 2nd is always a good idea. Especially on your first bike purchase and if you're hoing to try it out first.
Spending £1k on a first purchase is a bit of gamble. Test the water and then find out what you really want.
A lot of hybrid bikes are FAR from light. Though if you're spending Brompton money on one, it should be lighter than a Brompton would be.
That said, Bromptons are really best suited where you need to get them onto / off trains etc. Unless you're REALLY short of space, I'd go with a normal bike.
That said, Bromptons are really best suited where you need to get them onto / off trains etc. Unless you're REALLY short of space, I'd go with a normal bike.
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If it works, I'm all for it. In fact since I was down a little due to injury, seems a good idea to do this this week and start my second base phase back up from the start.
Thanks both, probably what I need to hear. I get sweaty very easily as well, so the less intense the effort required the better (but I think they have showers at work etc... anyway).
Think I was into the idea of a Brompton, but practically it just isn't what I need. Coupled with the fact I may well end up trying it and giving up after a couple of months.
£200-500 would be an ideal range. Any particular hybrid recommendations?
I'm so envious of everyone who can bike to work. I've got about a ~33mi ride to work if I ever wanted to do it, but it's shitty, not great biking roads and some flat out state highways that would be rough to bike on... Basically a climb the whole way from work to home, ~1200ft up... sucks.
I'm not a serious rider either, I do 20-30mi on the weekends over two days, and try to get out once or twice a week to do ~10mi after work.
Nah, just go with it.
Your ass'll get used to it pretty quick. Might take 2-3 weeks, maybe a month, but after it's really bad at first, there's a curve and it start to not be bad and then you don't notice it. Started biking again semi-regularly about 2 years back, and my ass killed the first month or so, but now I really only notice it on long rides (for me, 20+ miles or so).
If you're on all roads/paved/gravel, I'd recommend a road bike over a hybrid. Maybe more experienced riders disagree and I'm happy for someone to correct me, but when I started riding again I got a hybrid because I planned to do both some light trails (gravel/minor off road stuff, or like small segments of a trail), but then I really regretted it... I'd ride with friends who had road bikes and they'd easily take these hills, and I'd be struggling falling behind... Ended up buying an entry level road bike for $700 or $800, and it made such a huge difference. There were cheaper ones too, $450-$600, especially if I were buying online and assembling myself. In the end I'm super pleased with the road bike, makes such a big difference effort wise.
I'm not a serious rider either, I do 20-30mi on the weekends over two days, and try to get out once or twice a week to do ~10mi after work.
Nah, just go with it.
Your ass'll get used to it pretty quick. Might take 2-3 weeks, maybe a month, but after it's really bad at first, there's a curve and it start to not be bad and then you don't notice it. Started biking again semi-regularly about 2 years back, and my ass killed the first month or so, but now I really only notice it on long rides (for me, 20+ miles or so).
If you're on all roads/paved/gravel, I'd recommend a road bike over a hybrid. Maybe more experienced riders disagree and I'm happy for someone to correct me, but when I started riding again I got a hybrid because I planned to do both some light trails (gravel/minor off road stuff, or like small segments of a trail), but then I really regretted it... I'd ride with friends who had road bikes and they'd easily take these hills, and I'd be struggling falling behind... Ended up buying an entry level road bike for $700 or $800, and it made such a huge difference. There were cheaper ones too, $450-$600, especially if I were buying online and assembling myself. In the end I'm super pleased with the road bike, makes such a big difference effort wise.
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Compass just dropped a 700x55. The huge G-One Speed finally getting some competition in that sticking-enormous-road-tires-on-your-MTB market, lol.
Maybe a Trek FX if you want some lower gears.
Just like with modern molded saddles, it depends on the saddle and the rider.
Diamondback Haanjo 1
Maybe a Trek FX if you want some lower gears.