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Samaritan

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,710
Tacoma, Washington
is 16 gauge speaker wire decent enough when using an AVR unit/speakers for sound quality with PS5 games?
What gauge speaker wire you go with is going to be dependent on the distance from speaker to receiver, as well as the impedance of the speaker. Here's a handy chart for figuring out what the right gauge is for you:

speaker-cables.png


EDIT: We posted the exact same image seconds apart Pargon lmao
 

CrichtonKicks

Member
Oct 25, 2017
11,272
I have audio output of my 2080 Ti directed to the HDMI In port on my Vizio Soundbar. I also have an HDMI cable going from the the video card into my LG CX TV. So pretty straightforward- video to the TV, audio to the soundbar.

My question is this: Why does Windows 10 see my Vizio Soundbar as "LG TV SSCR" in the Control Panel for Sound? Shouldn't the edid or something control the device name?

I change the name myself for clarity but it gets overwritten periodically, usually when I do an Nvidia driver update.
 

Deleted member 10747

User requested account closure
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
1,259
is 16 gauge speaker wire decent enough when using an AVR unit/speakers for sound quality with PS5 games? Also, for ARC mode between the TV and Receiver, I imagine a standard HDMI 2.0 cable is sufficient? I know for EARC you'd want a 2.1 cable
It really depends on amplifier watts (rms), speaker ohm and length.

In general something between 16 and 10 awg should work as long as you don't run very long
cables. The higher the gauge the lower your run can be. Think 50ft or so. Than it would be better to get 12 awg.

But than again just buy what you can afford without being a idiot and enjoy your sound :).

Edit: Lol People already responded.
 

Deleted member 29464

Account closed at user request
Banned
Nov 1, 2017
3,121
How are people using their USB dacs and charging cables on PS5. I feel like one or the other in the back is going to be a pain.
 
Dec 14, 2017
1,314
Yay! I'm a huge headphone audiophile, though I've switched out my Focal Elex for a relatively unknown headphone, the Ollo S4X. My DAC is an original Bifrost Multibit, and my amp is a Garage 1217 Project Polaris.

I've been getting into "Chi-Fi" IEMS recently. My favorite is the Mangird Tea, but I just got the Shuoer Tape Pro, and I'm digging the resolution I get with them.
 

Graf

Member
Oct 30, 2017
14
Yay! I'm a huge headphone audiophile, though I've switched out my Focal Elex for a relatively unknown headphone, the Ollo S4X. My DAC is an original Bifrost Multibit, and my amp is a Garage 1217 Project Polaris.

I've been getting into "Chi-Fi" IEMS recently. My favorite is the Mangird Tea, but I just got the Shuoer Tape Pro, and I'm digging the resolution I get with them.

How does the S4X compare to the Elex and your other headphones/iems? I've heard good things about it.
 
Dec 14, 2017
1,314
How does the S4X compare to the Elex and your other headphones/iems? I've heard good things about it.
I like it better than the Elex, since the Elex distorts at high volumes (driver moves far enough to rattle against the cup.)

It compares well to my Mangird Tea (IEM). My Tape Pro (IEM) have less presence, but more detail.

My S4X seems peaky at 6khz on my portable DAC/amp, but sounds perfect on my home rig.
 

Samaritan

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,710
Tacoma, Washington
Thinking of finally upgrading my trusty Sennheiser HD6XXs for something a little more exciting-sounding. Looking at the beyerdynamic DT 1990s, does that seem like a natural upgrade over the HD6XXs? I'd be using them primarily for gaming and listening to music.
 

ngower

Member
Nov 20, 2017
4,102
I am looking to upgrade my setup. Currently have a Maverick Audio Tubemagic D1, Sennheiser HD555/Grado s80e. I have a speaker setup but it's in storage while in renting a room. Looking at staying within Sennheiser but open to whatever. Games and music mostly. Occasional movie watching.

Not sure if I am going to upgrade headphones initially or upgrade incrementally, but eyeing something like the HD6XX or maybe a step up, don't wanna break the bank. Any recs for an upgrade path with DAC, headphone amp and headphones? I'd say budget in the $500-$1000 range.
 
Apr 28, 2020
306
I bought a SoundblasterX G6 and plug it into the back of the PS5 with a long microusb cable from Monoprice. I use my Sennheiser HD6XX's with it and man it sounds incredible.
I've been looking into the SoundBlasterX G6. I've never really considered using one of these before, especially for console gaming. Can someone describe what it's really like? Are you able to hear more details, does it deliver more bass, or just more volume? Or all of the above?
And how do you all manage sitting far away on the couch using one of these things, that are not wireless?
 

sirap

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,232
South East Asia
Thinking of finally upgrading my trusty Sennheiser HD6XXs for something a little more exciting-sounding. Looking at the beyerdynamic DT 1990s, does that seem like a natural upgrade over the HD6XXs? I'd be using them primarily for gaming and listening to music.

God no, they couldn't be any more different. The DT 1990s have good detail but I find it to be too bright and unforgiving for everyday use. Of course, your ears will naturally adapt to the sound signature over time so if you don't regularly swap headphones/speakers it shouldn't be a problem.
 

Jedi79

Member
Oct 27, 2017
408
I've been looking into the SoundBlasterX G6. I've never really considered using one of these before, especially for console gaming. Can someone describe what it's really like? Are you able to hear more details, does it deliver more bass, or just more volume? Or all of the above?
And how do you all manage sitting far away on the couch using one of these things, that are not wireless?

I have one with a pair of Beyerdynamic 990, and both are excellent for directional audio, the g6 and headphones aren't good if you're looking for bass, but if you're a FPS player or tend to game where pinpoint audio is needed then the g6 is amazing.. very bright audio
 

Samaritan

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,710
Tacoma, Washington
God no, they couldn't be any more different. The DT 1990s have good detail but I find it to be too bright and unforgiving for everyday use. Of course, your ears will naturally adapt to the sound signature over time so if you don't regularly swap headphones/speakers it shouldn't be a problem.
Well like I said, I'm looking for something more exciting than what I'm currently using, so a pair of bright headphones sounds like what I'm looking for, as long as they have substantive bass response, which judging from reviews they seem to.
 

sirap

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,232
South East Asia
Well like I said, I'm looking for something more exciting than what I'm currently using, so a pair of bright headphones sounds like what I'm looking for, as long as they have substantive bass response, which judging from reviews they seem to.

I'd recommend trying them out first if possible. If you can't then...good luck :P

You can always EQ if you find it too fatiguing. Mine definitely responds better to it than the HD600s.
 

Samaritan

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,710
Tacoma, Washington
I'd recommend trying them out first if possible. If you can't then...good luck :P

You can always EQ if you find it too fatiguing. Mine definitely responds better to it than the HD600s.
Yeah I've seen a lot of comments and reviews using that exact word: fatiguing. Is there any pair you'd recommend I look at that is going to sound more exciting and punchier than my HD6XXs more neutral sound?
 

sirap

Member
Oct 25, 2017
8,232
South East Asia
Yeah I've seen a lot of comments and reviews using that exact word: fatiguing. Is there any pair you'd recommend I look at that is going to sound more exciting and punchier than my HD6XXs more neutral sound?

Hard to say, I don't have much experience at the mid-fi level. I only had the HD600's, 1990s and Sundaras before moving on to IEMs. All three are very different from each other and if you want excitement the beyers are definitely what you should go for.

Headphone ERA can offer better advice!
 

Huntersknoll

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,707
Thinking of finally upgrading my trusty Sennheiser HD6XXs for something a little more exciting-sounding. Looking at the beyerdynamic DT 1990s, does that seem like a natural upgrade over the HD6XXs? I'd be using them primarily for gaming and listening to music.

I'm a huge fan of the DT 1990s but they are VERY different from the HD6XXs. They are more exciting sounding for sure, haha. I think they are great for gaming and music. Since they are nothing like your HD6XX's my suggestion is getting them from a place you can return them. Also, only listen to them for like a week. They are going to be very bright at first but your brain will adjust. You will grow to love the detail.

Another tip.. I think the DT 1990's sound best with the Dekoni Elite Velour pads.. since they hit between the A and B pads. I might have a lighty used pair of them laying around. I just moved so I'd have to find them. If you do get the 1990 and want that pad just shoot me a PM and I can send them your way. I bought a few pairs on accident.
 

Samaritan

Member
Oct 25, 2017
6,710
Tacoma, Washington
I'm a huge fan of the DT 1990s but they are VERY different from the HD6XXs. They are more exciting sounding for sure, haha. I think they are great for gaming and music. Since they are nothing like your HD6XX's my suggestion is getting them from a place you can return them. Also, only listen to them for like a week. They are going to be very bright at first but your brain will adjust. You will grow to love the detail.

Another tip.. I think the DT 1990's sound best with the Dekoni Elite Velour pads.. since they hit between the A and B pads. I might have a lighty used pair of them laying around. I just moved so I'd have to find them. If you do get the 1990 and want that pad just shoot me a PM and I can send them your way. I bought a few pairs on accident.
Yeah if I end up getting them, I'll definitely get them from somewhere with a good return policy. And thanks for the offer on the pads! I'll have to remember that if I end up pulling the trigger. :)
 

killerch33z

Banned
Jun 11, 2020
42
I've been looking into the SoundBlasterX G6. I've never really considered using one of these before, especially for console gaming. Can someone describe what it's really like? Are you able to hear more details, does it deliver more bass, or just more volume? Or all of the above?
And how do you all manage sitting far away on the couch using one of these things, that are not wireless?
The G6 is just a DAC/AMP that powers my headphones, that's it. It doesnt change the sound at all. It has options to change the sound but I dont use them because I let the PS5's Tempest 3D Audio Engine handle that. I only sit like 5-7 feet away from my TV on an ergonomic office chair.
 

nikasun :D

Member
Oct 30, 2017
3,172
Today I got my Audeze Penrose for PC/PS5. Currently listening to a master record on Tidal on PC via the wireless transmitter (which has a very short range) and not sure how to describe them, but it seems that every little sound can be heard clearly compared to my HD 660s. It is a different kind of listening style, but man, I really like them.

What would be the counterpart with cable for PC?
 

Pizzamigo

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,441
Today I got my Audeze Penrose for PC/PS5. Currently listening to a master record on Tidal on PC via the wireless transmitter (which has a very short range) and not sure how to describe them, but it seems that every little sound can be heard clearly compared to my HD 660s. It is a different kind of listening style, but man, I really like them.

What would be the counterpart with cable for PC?

The Penrose is basically a wireless version of their previous gaming headset the Mobius, however they also released a new budget (for Audeze) planar magnetic open back headphone (not headset) which looks like it builds upon the Mobius, the new LCD-1. This is an open-back set though as opposed to the closed back Penrose/Mobius, and since it's also not an active/powered set it's much lighter than the Mobius and Penrose, which was one of my gripes with Penrose.

That said I haven't listened to the LCD-1 myself, but just based on specs, looks, budget I'm pretty sure its a non-gaming, slightly better version of the Mobius/Penrose with a better soundstage due to it's open back nature.
 
Last edited:

nikasun :D

Member
Oct 30, 2017
3,172
The Penrose is basically a wireless version of their previous gaming headset the Mobius, however they also released a new budget (for Audeze) planar magnetic open back headphone (not headset) which looks like it builds upon the Mobius, the new LCD-1. This is an open-back set though as opposed to the closed back Penrose/Mobius, and since it's also not an active/powered set it's much lighter than the Mobius and Penrose, which was one of my gripes with Penrose.

That said I haven't listened to the LCD-1 myself, but just based on specs, looks, budget I'm pretty sure its a non-gaming, slightly better version of the Mobius/Penrose with a better soundstage due to it's open back nature.
Cool, thank you! I would probably need to go closed back as to not annoy other people around me. There are LCD-2 closed headphones and I saw some kind of LCD gaming headphone version I think with a boom mic.
 

Pizzamigo

Member
Oct 25, 2017
1,441
Cool, thank you! I would probably need to go closed back as to not annoy other people around me. There are LCD-2 closed headphones and I saw some kind of LCD gaming headphone version I think with a boom mic.

Yeah I wouldn't really call those a counterpart to the Penrose, those are in an entirely different bracket of headphones and quality. Priced as such too. Ive heard fantastic things about the open back LCD-2, dunno about the closed back version though.
 
Last edited:

Exit Music

Member
Nov 13, 2017
1,082
I know they aren't audiophile equipment, but I got an Arctis 5 RGB Black Wired Gaming Headset at Game Stop for $17 the other day (I think it was a price mistake) and I'm excited for them to show up.

The only decent set of headphones I have now are HD558s and I did the mod where you remove the foam inside them and I think they sound really good. I'll be curious to see how this Arctis 5 headset compares.
 
Oct 27, 2017
3,962
hey gang,

I need some help hooking up my subwoofer to my receiver.

I read in the subwoofer owners manual you can use a single cable from sub to receiver. Sometimes when I turn the receiver on there is a lack of any bass at all. if I unplug the subwoofer and plug it back in, I hear bass again. I'm figuring I have it wired wrong. Which ports on the sub and receiver should I be plugging things into?

subwoofer

E0soGX6.jpg


receiver

ro4Z0WE.jpg



My receiver - https://av-receivers.net/onkyo/onkyo-tx-nr646-review/

My subwoofer - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/258795/Mirage-Bps-150i.html
 
Last edited:

Exit Music

Member
Nov 13, 2017
1,082
hey gang,

I need some help hooking up my subwoofer to my receiver.

I read in the subwoofer owners manual you can use a single cable from sub to receiver. Sometimes when I turn the receiver on there is a lack of any bass at all. if I unplug the subwoofer and plug it back in, I hear bass again. I'm figuring I have it wired wrong. Which ports on the sub and receiver should I be plugging things into?

subwoofer

E0soGX6.jpg


receiver

ro4Z0WE.jpg



My receiver - https://av-receivers.net/onkyo/onkyo-tx-nr646-review/

My subwoofer - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/258795/Mirage-Bps-150i.html
I think the top subwoofer port on the receiver and the mono input on the sub. I'd use a single mono rca cable.
 

Pargon

Member
Oct 27, 2017
12,111
hey gang,

I need some help hooking up my subwoofer to my receiver.

I read in the subwoofer owners manual you can use a single cable from sub to receiver. Sometimes when I turn the receiver on there is a lack of any bass at all. if I unplug the subwoofer and plug it back in, I hear bass again. I'm figuring I have it wired wrong. Which ports on the sub and receiver should I be plugging things into?

subwoofer

E0soGX6.jpg


receiver

ro4Z0WE.jpg



My receiver - https://av-receivers.net/onkyo/onkyo-tx-nr646-review/

My subwoofer - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/258795/Mirage-Bps-150i.html
Huh, a few things in that setup are atypical.

From reading the manuals, you should connect a single cable from the sub out (6) to the XOVER input on the subwoofer.
This means that the AVR is handling all bass management, bypassing the subwoofer's crossover and level controls.
I would suggest also setting the EQ on the sub to 0 dB rather than +3 dB - at least based on the response chart they used.
Note: using the XOVER input probably means it will play LOUD by default since its volume will now be controlled by the AVR.

You will have to enable the subwoofer in the AVR settings for it to play anything, and should probably go through the speaker calibration process again so that its levels are set appropriately.
From looking up various manuals, it seems that the Mirage external crossover controller can go up to 150Hz, but since the controls on the sub itself are limited to 100Hz you probably don't want to set it higher than that unless your other speakers can't go that low.
How the crossover should be set is really something that ought to be measured but I'm not sure if the auto calibration setup configures that. EDIT: Apparently the automatic speaker setup is supposed to do that.

If you have full-range front speakers, it seems there's also a "double-bass" option which will send LFE to both the fronts and the subwoofer if you want it active at all times, but I probably wouldn't recommend that.
 
Oct 27, 2017
3,962
Huh, a few things in that setup are atypical.

From reading the manuals, you should connect a single cable from the sub out (6) to the XOVER input on the subwoofer.
This means that the AVR is handling all bass management, bypassing the subwoofer's crossover and level controls.
I would suggest also setting the EQ on the sub to 0 dB rather than +3 dB - at least based on the response chart they used.
Note: using the XOVER input probably means it will play LOUD by default since its volume will now be controlled by the AVR.

You will have to enable the subwoofer in the AVR settings for it to play anything, and should probably go through the speaker calibration process again so that its levels are set appropriately.
From looking up various manuals, it seems that the Mirage external crossover controller can go up to 150Hz, but since the controls on the sub itself are limited to 100Hz you probably don't want to set it higher than that unless your other speakers can't go that low.
How the crossover should be set is really something that ought to be measured but I'm not sure if the auto calibration setup configures that. EDIT: Apparently the automatic speaker setup is supposed to do that.

If you have full-range front speakers, it seems there's also a "double-bass" option which will send LFE to both the fronts and the subwoofer if you want it active at all times, but I probably wouldn't recommend that.
great info. ty! When I plug directly into the xover its louder, sure, but its also bottoming out the sub at loud volumes. The sub is 0 on the receiver too. any thoughts on how to fix that bottoming out at high levels?
 

Pargon

Member
Oct 27, 2017
12,111
great info. ty! When I plug directly into the xover its louder, sure, but its also bottoming out the sub at loud volumes. The sub is 0 on the receiver too. any thoughts on how to fix that bottoming out at high levels?
You need to set up the crossover and volume level correctly in the AVR settings since you're now bypassing the sub's own controls.
The manual says that the auto speaker calibration should do this for you - though I suspect it may set the output level a bit hot.

Alternatively, you could use the MONO input on the sub instead of the XOVER input, since that will use the sub's own crossover and level control.
But ideally the AVR would be handling this.
 

Exit Music

Member
Nov 13, 2017
1,082
You need to set up the crossover and volume level correctly in the AVR settings since you're now bypassing the sub's own controls.
The manual says that the auto speaker calibration should do this for you - though I suspect it may set the output level a bit hot.

Alternatively, you could use the MONO input on the sub instead of the XOVER input, since that will use the sub's own crossover and level control.
But ideally the AVR would be handling this.
Yeah if you have a calibration mic I would set the sub volume at half and crossover as high as it will go and then run calibration.
 
Oct 27, 2017
3,962
You need to set up the crossover and volume level correctly in the AVR settings since you're now bypassing the sub's own controls.
The manual says that the auto speaker calibration should do this for you - though I suspect it may set the output level a bit hot.

Alternatively, you could use the MONO input on the sub instead of the XOVER input, since that will use the sub's own crossover and level control.
But ideally the AVR would be handling this.
Hmmm not sure where I set the crossover exactly on receiver. All I see are options for treble , bass etc where I can go + or - and even when I go high level volume and out sub at -10 it still bottoms out. It stops bottoming out when I lower the volume but the volume isn't loud enough for my liking.

I also don't have a calibration mic :/
 

Pargon

Member
Oct 27, 2017
12,111
Hmmm not sure where I set the crossover exactly on receiver. All I see are options for treble , bass etc where I can go + or - and even when I go high level volume and out sub at -10 it still bottoms out. It stops bottoming out when I lower the volume but the volume isn't loud enough for my liking.

I also don't have a calibration mic :/
Oh, I thought the mic was usually included with AVRs rather than optional.
Keep the treble/bass controls at zero/neutral rather than turning up the bass. You want the sub to do the work, not DSP.

The manual details the crossover setup: https://www.intl.onkyo.com/downloads/manuals/pdf/tx-nr646_bas_adv_manual_en.pdf
I think it should be in the "speaker" menu, and is then adjusted on a per-speaker basis.

If the issue is that the sub doesn't get loud enough and bottoms-out when you turn it up, even when the crossover is set at or below 100Hz, it may just be that it's under-sized or poorly placed?
I'm not seeing a lot of information for that model but it looks like an 8" sub.
Check that all of your speakers and the subwoofer are properly in phase too. Flicking the phase switch to 180° would be the quickest way to check if it's in phase or not (being out of phase will cancel out the low frequencies).
 
Oct 27, 2017
3,962
Oh, I thought the mic was usually included with AVRs rather than optional.
Keep the treble/bass controls at zero/neutral rather than turning up the bass. You want the sub to do the work, not DSP.

The manual details the crossover setup: https://www.intl.onkyo.com/downloads/manuals/pdf/tx-nr646_bas_adv_manual_en.pdf
I think it should be in the "speaker" menu, and is then adjusted on a per-speaker basis.

If the issue is that the sub doesn't get loud enough and bottoms-out when you turn it up, even when the crossover is set at or below 100Hz, it may just be that it's under-sized or poorly placed?
I'm not seeing a lot of information for that model but it looks like an 8" sub.
Check that all of your speakers and the subwoofer are properly in phase too. Flicking the phase switch to 180° would be the quickest way to check if it's in phase or not (being out of phase will cancel out the low frequencies).
Gotcha I'll check that section of the manual. Yeah I saw the phase switch but when I flicked it back and forth I didn't notice any differences .

thanks for the continued help!
 

Deleted member 5876

Big Seller
Banned
Oct 25, 2017
2,559
Currently on a 2.0 setup for my "home theater" and looking to make upgrades next year.

Current setup:
- Wharfedale Reva L/R tower speakers
- Yamaha Aventage receiver

The biggest issue I have right now is my TV is mounted a little too low on the wall so there isn't enough room to put a center speaker. Beside that, Wharfedale does not make the Reva series anymore and finding a matching center speaker is basically impossible.

I guess my question, if I'm upgrading to surrounds and a subwoofer do you think its okay to leave in place a "phantom center"? Effectively making for a 4.1 setup instead of a 5.1 setup. Currently, for imaging with just 2.0 the voices seem clear enough to me as is and they feel like they are coming from center. I think I'd really just rather spend money on getting surrounds and a subwoofer than paying someone to remount the tv higher and replacing the front L/R so I can get a matching center.
 
Oct 27, 2017
3,962
I have an Onkyo 7.1 receiver. If I set the PS5 to 5.1 (since there is no 3.1 option) and the onkyo is setup for a 3.1 setup, will it convert/downsample PS5 games to 3.1?
 

Jarmel

The Jackrabbit Always Wins
Member
Oct 25, 2017
19,491
New York
So I need an amp and I didn't want to go crazy budget-wise for them. I've narrowed it down to these two amps, Denon PMA-600NE and SMSL DA-8S. I was wondering if people would recommend the PMA-600NE over the DA-8S despite it costing twice as much. I was also looking at the Cambridge AX85 and AX100 but there wasn't much in terms of data and impressions.
 

hollams

Member
Nov 7, 2017
168
hey gang,

I need some help hooking up my subwoofer to my receiver.

I read in the subwoofer owners manual you can use a single cable from sub to receiver. Sometimes when I turn the receiver on there is a lack of any bass at all. if I unplug the subwoofer and plug it back in, I hear bass again. I'm figuring I have it wired wrong. Which ports on the sub and receiver should I be plugging things into?

subwoofer

E0soGX6.jpg


receiver

ro4Z0WE.jpg



My receiver - https://av-receivers.net/onkyo/onkyo-tx-nr646-review/

My subwoofer - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/258795/Mirage-Bps-150i.html

On the receiver you need to plug it into the subwoofer port. Since bass is mono you can use either the left or right input on the subwoofer, but it does need to be the cable you plugged into the input.
 

Deleted member 10747

User requested account closure
Banned
Oct 27, 2017
1,259
Damn!! I've heard great things about Hedds. Report back with your thoughts!
Sorry for the late reply..... To busy getting used to the speakers. They sound very different than i was used too.

My first week impressions: They are fantastic. Wide 3d soundstage. Really smooth highs but not harsh. Lows go plenty low. In my room it goes around 35hz. The quality that comes out of these speakers is extremely good.

They are brutally honest. It really is a window into the music. So don't expect it to mask or be kind to not so well recorded/mixed/mastered music. Music that have been treated well will really shine.

Negatives: I have none so far. It does what i want and wished for. If i was going to nick pick. I just wish that the lows would have a bit more heft (not extension). Than again it's a 7 inch driver :). Can't have it all. Perhaps going to build a stereo subwoofers (15")to satisfy my need for heft. :). For now i am extremely satisfied with the Hedds.

I calibrated my system with an slightly downward slope, 1~db.

Edit: They are so clean sounding that i put them louder than i want. They go seriously loud....still haven't clipped them.
 

dm101

Member
Nov 13, 2018
2,199
Yay! I'm a huge headphone audiophile, though I've switched out my Focal Elex for a relatively unknown headphone, the Ollo S4X. My DAC is an original Bifrost Multibit, and my amp is a Garage 1217 Project Polaris.

I've been getting into "Chi-Fi" IEMS recently. My favorite is the Mangird Tea, but I just got the Shuoer Tape Pro, and I'm digging the resolution I get with them.
Big headphone audiophile here too with my games. I have 2 different rigs: one with a benchmark dac3, bryston bha1, Sony z1rs and meze empyreans, and the other station is the bryston bda3, the bryston bha1, and the abyss 1266 phi tcs. I also have some chifi which is the smsl sp200 thx and their sm200 dac. Good stuff.
 

RandomDazed

Member
Oct 27, 2017
691
is anyone here using a Corsair Wave:3 mic and an external Dac and speakers?

When i install the Wave software it kills sound to the dac and nothing i've tried fixes it.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

Teeth

Member
Nov 4, 2017
3,956
Hey, I'm hoping someone in here might be able to help me out - I'm not super versed in all of the ins and outs of the audio connectivity/output chain and I'm looking to possibly build a new setup for my work setup.

Right off the bat, the one main stipulation I have to have is that I can't have any added input lag to my setup. Even sort of the possibility of there being added input lag due extra hops in the signal chain gives me pause because this will be for my production setup and I don't want to have more possible things to troubleshoot than necessary.

That said, I'd like something I can mainly hook up my PC to, as well as a PS5 and Xbox Series X and get pretty good quality sound from. Presently, everything goes to a 144Hz monitor that only has a headphone jack as an audio output (no ARC).

I've been skating by for a number of years now on a totally decent Denon receiver that I've had since before HDMI really existed in the commercial space (yes, it's old, but it outputs good sound). The PS4Pro and Xbox One X both have optical output and that's been great - just HDMI to the monitor and optical to the receiver, no problems at all. But now neither the PS5, nor the XSX have optical outputs and that's causing me some consternation. I guess it's time for a new receiver.

What I'm starting to wonder is if I should just get a higher quality Power Amp/Pre-Amp and something to feed it (so that as technology and inputs march on i can just switch out the thing that feeds the amp instead of having to switch out the entire amp). Especially since it seems like a lot of the present receivers don't have HDMI2.1 fully figured out without a bunch of caveats.

I also have the problem of not having a monitor with an ARC output...so I'm reduced to crappy controller-headphone output. Which is not good.

Finally, i have the problem of not knowing what's out there as far as connectivity. I've been out of the sound game for a while and it's hard to search for things when you don't even know what they are called.

So if anyone could help out an old person who wants decent connectivity, good sound (though it doesn't have to be production monitor quality, I'm not the sound guy for my team), without absolutely breaking the bank (though I'm willing to spend a decent chunk of cash), and having the least signal hops possible, you would have my eternal gratitude!