Yeah, he went all-in on a home theater setup with them, everything except the TV is McIntosh. W I L D stuff.
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I have a Samsung W700 subwoofer. Nothing special. Just pairs with my soundbar and rears for a budget 5.1 setup. Been looking into a proper AVR setup for weeks and it just got me wondering something.
In all of Samsung's promotional pics they always have it facing this way:
So I've always positioned mine the same, with the driver (is that the right term?) facing the wall. Seemed to make sense as there's a little blue light below the Samsung logo that lets you know when it's on and connected.
Whenever I see pictures of people's home theatres the driver is always facing out into the room. Does this matter? Should I flip my sub the other way round? The other side looks like a standard sub:
In all of Samsung's promotional pics they always have it facing this way:
So I've always positioned mine the same, with the driver (is that the right term?) facing the wall. Seemed to make sense as there's a little blue light below the Samsung logo that lets you know when it's on and connected.
Whenever I see pictures of people's home theatres the driver is always facing out into the room. Does this matter? Should I flip my sub the other way round? The other side looks like a standard sub:
I have a Samsung W700 subwoofer. Nothing special. Just pairs with my soundbar and rears for a budget 5.1 setup. Been looking into a proper AVR setup for weeks and it just got me wondering something.
In all of Samsung's promotional pics they always have it facing this way:
So I've always positioned mine the same, with the driver (is that the right term?) facing the wall. Seemed to make sense as there's a little blue light below the Samsung logo that lets you know when it's on and connected.
Whenever I see pictures of people's home theatres the driver is always facing out into the room. Does this matter? Should I flip my sub the other way round? The other side looks like a standard sub:
It shouldn't matter, bass is omnidirectional and radiates spherically. If I had to choose through I would face the woofer away from the wall.
Are you perhaps still using the setup/calibration created for your old speakers? Additionally, you can radically change the sound by moving any speaker either closer to or further from walls (both behind and to the sides) and aiming them either directly at you, straight ahead, or anything in between. You can also try using a pair of the bookshelves as the L/R mains and see if you like them better than the towers. The extra low end sound power on towers and varying height of the woofers have the potential to excite more room modes which can overpower the actual sound signature of the speaker. Good room correction can fix it, but Onkyo's AccuEQ doesn't have the best reputation.
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For $100 + tax, I just bought an AKG N700 NC (2018 model), my first noise-cancelling headphones and the first time I've ever spent more than like $30 on headphones. There is a new version that seems to just have USB-C instead of microUSB but it's 3X the price.
In the ~$100 price range, these seemed to be the best headphones available that were wireless, had noise-cancelling, and could do audio/voice on Xbox One:
www.rtings.com
But I don't know shit about shit when it comes to audio quality. Are these actually good headphones to start using or am I doing irreversible damage to my aural palette? My primary use cases are phone meetings and gaming so I'll have to ask people how well the integrated microphone works but I would obviously love it if they were also good for podcasts and music.
In the ~$100 price range, these seemed to be the best headphones available that were wireless, had noise-cancelling, and could do audio/voice on Xbox One:
AKG N700NC Wireless Review
The AKG N700NC are decent mixed-usage wireless noise canceling over-ear headphones. They have a premium look and feel well-made. They have great audio reproducti...
www.rtings.com
But I don't know shit about shit when it comes to audio quality. Are these actually good headphones to start using or am I doing irreversible damage to my aural palette? My primary use cases are phone meetings and gaming so I'll have to ask people how well the integrated microphone works but I would obviously love it if they were also good for podcasts and music.
Do subwoofer settings affect how the bass sounds in other speakers too?? It has improved a lot after I changed the hz rating to 80 after reading on the SVS website.
I mean, it's not going to directly affect the speaker, but it will affect the sound in the room, since the subwoofer should not be easy to localize.
You need the crossover (100Hz here) set so that the low-passed signal for the subwoofer (red) and high-passed signal for the speakers (blue) result in a smooth transition across that frequency range (green).
You can also have interactions with speakers where room acoustics cause certain frequencies to be cut or boosted, and the subwoofer's phase dial can help even it out.
I don't think I still have the measurements, but I found that setting my subwoofer's phase to 30° really helped to even out the frequency response (that's not a general recommendation - it depends on your speakers and room).
If this is not set correctly, you could end up with a lot of emphasis in certain frequencies for example.
Properly adjusted, you shouldn't really be able to tell that there is a subwoofer there - it should sound like your speakers just extend really deep.
I didn't see this topic so I made one this morning https://www.resetera.com/threads/a-little-bit-lost-in-audio-setting-xbox-ps4.192129/
If anyone can confirm the final setup for now 😀
If anyone can confirm the final setup for now 😀
You received the new sub as well? Yes bass isn't localizable up to certain frequencies so it will effect all speakers. You will want all your speakers set to small (even the towers) when you have a sub. It's possible your AVR set them to large if you reran setup.
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I'm still going back and forth as to whether or not to drop the money on the sound system. The soundbar I do have is the HW-N950. I do wonder how much of a difference I'm going to hear, as this soundbar sounds better than my old 5.1 HT setup did, but there are, of course, many reasons why that is true.
Pretty sure I'm going to do this:
This receiver. All the reviews I've read rate it really highly, and it gives me a bit more flexibility:
This speaker set for 5.0:
2x of these, for both the front and rear speakers since the receiver can handle it:
And probably this subwoofer:
This receiver. All the reviews I've read rate it really highly, and it gives me a bit more flexibility:
Amazon.com: Pioneer VSX-LX303 9.2 Channel 4k UltraHD Network A/V Receiver Black: Electronics
Buy Pioneer VSX-LX303 9.2 Channel 4k UltraHD Network A/V Receiver Black: AV Receivers & Amplifiers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
This speaker set for 5.0:
2x of these, for both the front and rear speakers since the receiver can handle it:
Amazon.com: Pioneer SP-T22A-LR Add-on Speaker designed by Andrew Jones for Dolby Atmos,Black: Home Audio & Theater
Buy Pioneer SP-T22A-LR Add-on Speaker designed by Andrew Jones for Dolby Atmos, Black: Speakers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
And probably this subwoofer:
Gonna be getting a slightly bigger desk next week, which means that I should finally have space for a couple of speakers. Where do I, like... Start? I'm thinking I'm looking specifically for two powered bookshelf speakers. I'd be using my Schiit Magni 3 as a pre-amp, so RCA connectivity is a must (I believe?). AUX, bluetooth etc. are unnecessary, but I don't mind having them. Sound-wise, I'd like something actually meaty, thick, warm, bassy if at all possible without getting a separate subwoofer - I don't want any more stuff on the floor. It doesn't have to be extremely precise or anything, mostly just.. Fun.
If it helps, I've really dug the Sennheiser HD58X sound since I got them, with its beautiful mids and surprisingly kicky bass and relaxed (or recessed/veiled, however you want to put it) highs. I also had the Logitech MX Sound speakers before, which sounded way too thin to me, bordering on terrible.
I know, I know - the only real advice is that I should go and listen to a bunch of different speakers in a store. Not sure that's really feasible right now, so I'm just looking for a way to get started.
The first ones I ran into were these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edifier-R1280T-Bookshelf-Speaker-Control/dp/B00GBN50SC/
They look amazing and are extremely affordable.
e: fuck it, ordered the Edifiers.
If it helps, I've really dug the Sennheiser HD58X sound since I got them, with its beautiful mids and surprisingly kicky bass and relaxed (or recessed/veiled, however you want to put it) highs. I also had the Logitech MX Sound speakers before, which sounded way too thin to me, bordering on terrible.
I know, I know - the only real advice is that I should go and listen to a bunch of different speakers in a store. Not sure that's really feasible right now, so I'm just looking for a way to get started.
The first ones I ran into were these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edifier-R1280T-Bookshelf-Speaker-Control/dp/B00GBN50SC/
They look amazing and are extremely affordable.
e: fuck it, ordered the Edifiers.
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It really depends what your budget is, and if a specific size/aesthetic is important to you.
I am going to sound like a broken record, but the JBL 305p MkII are the first speakers I would recommend to anyone, because they are the cheapest speakers I know of that have a flat response and a constant-directivity design with their image control waveguide.
It's not that they are the best sounding speakers ever, or anything like that; it's that I've never heard anything which sounds comparable anywhere close to that price range - and most reviews for the LSR 305 / 305p MkII say the same thing.
But they are twice as expensive, and larger than those Edifier speakers:
Since they're professional monitors sold individually each requires power, and you will need RCA to TS (1/4") adapters/cables to connect them to your Magni 3; but cheap Hosa ones or similar will do the job.
They're rear-ported rather than front-ported, and with it being ⌀70mm that means they will ideally be placed 140mm from the wall rather than pushed up against it.
They are available in black or white rather than wood finishes - though I do wish they had kept the matte finish on the black ones like the original LSR 305.
But I don't think many people are going to be disappointed with how they sound for the price. They're flat down to 49Hz and that extends to 43Hz at -10dB.
If you don't like the flat frequency response they're easily EQ'd since they are flat, and because of the constant-directivity design; but I think most people will get used to how they sound fairly quickly.
The biggest issue is that they are not silent (hiss) when nothing is playing if they are out of standby; but I couldn't find any active speakers in this price range which are.
Being designed for studio use the auto-standby is after 20 minutes though, while some consumer speakers may go into standby after only a few seconds. I disabled the auto-standby and keep them hooked up to a smart power strip so I can easily switch them on/off via Alexa (not due to the hiss).
It really depends what your budget is, and if a specific size/aesthetic is important to you.
I am going to sound like a broken record, but the JBL 305p MkII are the first speakers I would recommend to anyone, because they are the cheapest speakers I know of that have a flat response and a constant-directivity design with their image control waveguide.
It's not that they are the best sounding speakers ever, or anything like that; it's that I've never heard anything which sounds comparable anywhere close to that price range - and most reviews for the LSR 305 / 305p MkII say the same thing.
But they are twice as expensive, and larger than those Edifier speakers:
Since they're professional monitors sold individually each requires power, and you will need RCA to TS (1/4") adapters/cables to connect them to your Magni 3; but cheap Hosa ones or similar will do the job.
They're rear-ported rather than front-ported, and with it being ⌀70mm that means they will ideally be placed 140mm from the wall rather than pushed up against it.
They are available in black or white rather than wood finishes - though I do wish they had kept the matte finish on the black ones like the original LSR 305.
But I don't think many people are going to be disappointed with how they sound for the price. They're flat down to 49Hz and that extends to 43Hz at -10dB.
If you don't like the flat frequency response they're easily EQ'd since they are flat, and because of the constant-directivity design; but I think most people will get used to how they sound fairly quickly.
The biggest issue is that they are not silent (hiss) when nothing is playing if they are out of standby; but I couldn't find any active speakers in this price range which are.
Being designed for studio use the auto-standby is after 20 minutes though, while some consumer speakers may go into standby after only a few seconds. I disabled the auto-standby and keep them hooked up to a smart power strip so I can easily switch them on/off via Alexa (not due to the hiss).
Thanks a lot for the detailed response! Looks like I managed to squeeze in the edit right when you were writing this - I got all antsy and ordered the Edifiers already, figured they're so cheap that even if returning them was a pain, I can just give them to the GF or my parents or someone if they're disappointing.
Still, I immediately recognized the JBLs, I think I've heard/read quite a lot of good stuff about them. 200 pounds (or euros actually for me) is definitely still fine, I think my upper limit would be somewhere around the 300 euro mark. So if the Edifiers disappoint, I'll definitely look into the JBLs.
Interesting note about the noise floor/hissing. Hadn't even thought of that. Interesting to see how the Edifiers perform there. I guess a bit of a hiss wouldn't be a problem since I've got some tinnitus going on and suffer from constant hiss already lol.
Audiophiles please help.
Thinking about buying new headphones, looking at beyerdynamik dt 1990 pro. My question is how am going to get it connected to Xbox series x and have mic support at the same time.
Is that possible?
Can I connect schiit magni+modi to my TV (oled b7) and then get a standalone mic connected to Xbox controller? Will that work?
Thinking about buying new headphones, looking at beyerdynamik dt 1990 pro. My question is how am going to get it connected to Xbox series x and have mic support at the same time.
Is that possible?
Can I connect schiit magni+modi to my TV (oled b7) and then get a standalone mic connected to Xbox controller? Will that work?
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I don't think anyone can say for sure until the XSX is out.
The DT1990 Pro using a Mini XLR connector rather than 3.5mm does complicate matters, because you could have used something like a V-Moda BoomPro and connected them directly to the controller.
Then again, the controller is probably a bad idea for headphones like that anyway.
It's certainly possible that you'd be able to connect a headphone amplifier to your TV's output for the headphones and then clip something like a ModMic to them, with that connected to the controller, but I don't think anyone could say for sure.
And it could be a bit awkward with all those cables, depending on your setup.
What I'm hoping for is inexpensive WiSA transmitters/receivers to hit the market, as those are lossless and have a fixed latency of only 2.6ms.
That would let you position the headphone amplifier/DAC next to you rather than having cables coming from the TV to your seat.
The alternative of course is to compromise on audio quality and buy a headset designed for it. I probably wouldn't buy anything yet.
Thanks for the reply.
Also first time hearing about WiSA, looked into it and it sure seems interesting.
My plan was to connect a standalone mic like this one to xbox controller and clip it on the heaphones cable.
My headphones would then be connected to dac/amp which would be connected to the TV.
But i am not sure if that works at all and if it works will i get all the benefits this way(dolby atmos/DTSX for headphones) since xbox will not recognize that i have headphones connected.
I guess i'll have to wait until XSX/PS5 is out.
Yup, those Pioneers are pretty much the go-to for a solid speaker system, and have been for years. Long-time readers of this thread probably get tired of me recommending them...but I've owned something like 20 of the speakers in the line, between the previous version, the upstairs and downstairs systems, etc.
One note: Amazon tends to deeply discount them at times. Camelcamelcamel indicates that they haven't in a bit, so those times might be over, but I got the floorstanders for $80/ea, the center for $66, and so on. The current price of ~$500 is still a great deal for the set, but keep your eye on the prices of the individual pieces.
You can use something like the Behringer HD 400 "Hum Destroyer". Completely destroyed any hissing on my LSR 305.It really depends what your budget is, and if a specific size/aesthetic is important to you.
I am going to sound like a broken record, but the JBL 305p MkII are the first speakers I would recommend to anyone, because they are the cheapest speakers I know of that have a flat response and a constant-directivity design with their image control waveguide.
It's not that they are the best sounding speakers ever, or anything like that; it's that I've never heard anything which sounds comparable anywhere close to that price range - and most reviews for the LSR 305 / 305p MkII say the same thing.
But they are twice as expensive, and larger than those Edifier speakers:
Since they're professional monitors sold individually each requires power, and you will need RCA to TS (1/4") adapters/cables to connect them to your Magni 3; but cheap Hosa ones or similar will do the job.
They're rear-ported rather than front-ported, and with it being ⌀70mm that means they will ideally be placed 140mm from the wall rather than pushed up against it.
They are available in black or white rather than wood finishes - though I do wish they had kept the matte finish on the black ones like the original LSR 305.
But I don't think many people are going to be disappointed with how they sound for the price. They're flat down to 49Hz and that extends to 43Hz at -10dB.
If you don't like the flat frequency response they're easily EQ'd since they are flat, and because of the constant-directivity design; but I think most people will get used to how they sound fairly quickly.
The biggest issue is that they are not silent (hiss) when nothing is playing if they are out of standby; but I couldn't find any active speakers in this price range which are.
Being designed for studio use the auto-standby is after 20 minutes though, while some consumer speakers may go into standby after only a few seconds. I disabled the auto-standby and keep them hooked up to a smart power strip so I can easily switch them on/off via Alexa (not due to the hiss).
Thanks for the suggestion. That sounds like your issue was caused by a ground loop.
I'm talking about the slight hiss that you get simply from having them powered on, even with no input connected.
Hey all, quick question.
I have this
LG C9
Denon AVR X1400H
I connected the HDMI ARC from the AVR to the C9's ARC. When I fire up a Netflix movie the display on the AVR says
D+. TV
When I press "status" on the AVR I get
Sig: Dolby D +
Is this the actual Dolby Digital I want? Because I recall it should say just Dolby Digital, no?
The sound out setting on the TV is HDMI ARC with digital sound output set to auto. EARC is off.
I have this
LG C9
Denon AVR X1400H
I connected the HDMI ARC from the AVR to the C9's ARC. When I fire up a Netflix movie the display on the AVR says
D+. TV
When I press "status" on the AVR I get
Sig: Dolby D +
Is this the actual Dolby Digital I want? Because I recall it should say just Dolby Digital, no?
The sound out setting on the TV is HDMI ARC with digital sound output set to auto. EARC is off.
Depending on your source.
Netflix app on PC is dd+ if I remember .So I think nothing to worry about.
Got DD for netflix only with teh XboxOne app.
Netflix app on PC is dd+ if I remember .So I think nothing to worry about.
Got DD for netflix only with teh XboxOne app.
Yeah I googled it. Dd+ is normal for Netflix. Tried it out with the latest Blade Runner....no complaints! And I only have two front speakers. Can't believe I waited this long to connect the AVR again, just when I'm almost done with my re-watch session of James Bond.
I also love how easy this all was. I connected everything as it should and it just works and I can control everything with the C9 remote.
Oh yes,... One thing.
If a app doesn't support DD at all, it's best to leave the AVR where it's set at default, right? Which is here Dolby surround.
So I bought a pair of Sennheiser HD 599 primarily for nighttime use on my PC, but to use them on my PS4 and XOX I need some kind of dac/amp, right? As i have no idea about those, could I get some advice on what to buy or look out for? Price range is around 150€.
It really depends what the rest of your setup is like. You shouldn't need to buy those.
- If your display has a headphone output, you don't need either.
- If it has a line-out (usually two RCA connectors) you might want an amplifier; though you could get away with a cheap adapter that has an in-line volume control. I have a few Monoprice adapters which are 3.5mm splitters that have their own volume control, and have used that with an RCA to 3.5mm adapter to power some headphones in a pinch. That is far from being the best option of course, as it will have poor impedance matching.
- You only need a DAC if you have a digital audio source with no analog output, or the analog output is low quality (hiss/noise/distortion).
In that situation I'd prefer to use optical (toslink) and a powered switch, but it's looking like PS5/XSX are dropping optical support - so I don't know that I'd recommend an optical (only) DAC now.
Now of course an amplifier is likely to improve audio quality, as the headphone output of most displays is not particularly good, but I would certainly try it first to see if you think it's necessary, and figure out what it is that you actually need.
I'm looking at getting a pair of Dali Oberons and the Dali Vokal but I'm at a loss as to where to shop for them. Are there any preferred sites for shopping for speakers, preferably someplace that has some decent deals from time to time? Is there a best time to shop for speakers, like are there sales around memorial day or something like that? Thank you!
Hey, thanks for the quick reply and explanation. Everything is hooked up through a Sony HT-ZF9 soundbar with rear speakers to an LG C7. The ZF9 doesn't have a headphone output but the TV does, I just tried it, consoles and PC work but the quality is slightly worse than the onboard sound of my PC and I can hear a bit of hissing? noise when nothing is playing. Switching from stereo to 7.1 on PS4 doesn't seem to work reliably while a game is running, needs a restart, otherwise it stays in stereo. Or I'm doing something wrong..
Would love to know how you get on if you buy these. I'm looking at buying this for my first AVR setup: https://petertyson.co.uk/denon-avr-x3600h-av-receiver-with-oberon5av
Anyone got any experice with these Dali speakers? Anything else I should be looking at in a similar price range?
Is the 950 the one that comes with the rear surrounds? Are you happy with the audio quality for movies? I'm using an older energy 5.1 system, but I moved to a different place and the sound bar would fit a lot better.
I actually like the sound a lot. I've ultimately decided to keep the system and save my money for now, since I'll be building a new PC at the end of the year. I was able to fix the main issue I had with the system, which was needing to find a compatible HDMI switch.
You will need to use surround. Forcing it into Stereo mode will only use the left and right channels while the center will sit silent.
Decided to hook up my Xbox One X to the Denon AVR as well now. And I was surprised to already have audio, while the HDMI cable from Xbox to AVR wasn't even connected yet. All I had was the HDMI ARC from AVR to TV, but I do have a delay in the audio.
I am sure I can fix this delay by hooking the Xbox HDMI cable to the AVR, correct? I wish I could fix the delay without the need to connect the Xbox cable though.
I am sure I can fix this delay by hooking the Xbox HDMI cable to the AVR, correct? I wish I could fix the delay without the need to connect the Xbox cable though.
I see. But how do you get sound then? Don't you always need to connect to ARC on AVR and TV to get audio?
I just connect my console or uhd player straight into my receiver. So 1 HDMI is only for video, the other HDMI carries the audio, but I have to use separate remote controls. With ARC I can control everything with my TV remote, but with the way I set it up, I use a remote for the receiver to control the audio and the TV remote to select inputs. Hopefully E-arc will solve all this, but I don't have a set up with E-arc yet.
So... just ordered an Arctis Steel Series Pro Wireless headset... hoping I'll like them a lot! I'll report back when I receive and test them.
love playing games with my Sennheiser HD 650's but the cable and not having a microphone makes them less flexible for gaming. So we'll see how a dedicated high end "gaming headset" stacks up!
love playing games with my Sennheiser HD 650's but the cable and not having a microphone makes them less flexible for gaming. So we'll see how a dedicated high end "gaming headset" stacks up!
I just got a pair of Lucidsound LS 41's. Or maybe it's just LS41's? Either way, they are quite nice. I was using a pair of Sennheiser HD650's before this but I wanted to switch to something with more of a "fun" sound signature.
Oh I see, I didn't know that would work. So let's say you hook up console's HDMI to "game" HDMI port on the back of the AVR, another HDMI cable would go from "tuner" to one of the HDMI ports on the TV? And then you get audio and video? But what do you set the AVR's source to? Game or Tyner?
As for eARC, my TV has it but the AVR doesn't, so I can't properly use that until I get a AVR that supports that also?
Yes, that's correct. HDMI from console into the reciever's "game" port, then you would have an HDMI cable from the reciever going to the TV. If you want to use surround when using the console, you would select "game" on the reciever.
As far as eARC goes, yes your receiver and TV has to have it.
Has anyone come across good written guides or video content for beginners to learn about home theater systems?
I'd like to start researching towards a home theater system to prepare for next gen. My use case is probably 90% music, 9.8% games, and 0.2% movies/TV.
I already have speakers and subwoofers in mind, but I have no idea what to do about AV receivers and DAC/amps.
I'd like to start researching towards a home theater system to prepare for next gen. My use case is probably 90% music, 9.8% games, and 0.2% movies/TV.
I already have speakers and subwoofers in mind, but I have no idea what to do about AV receivers and DAC/amps.
Which model exactly in the 83 line? There's a big difference between 383 and 683 for example. Either way, you're likely going to be fine to start, but do keep in mind that an upgrade will be due.
If you're so heavily into music, drop the idea of AV receiver / surround setup and go for stereo, unless you're willing to drop BIG bucks.
Decent integrated stereo or separate amp/dac's are going to cost at least as much as a receiver and generally lack subwoofer inputs, proper crossover/integration, room correction, and HDMI. Even for a stereo setup the average user is much better off buying a receiver if they have the physical space. The alternatives only make sense for size/cost constraints (i.e. desktop use/~$100 Chinese class D's) or power users who need several hundred watts/ch monoblocks. Depending on how much you want to spend, the Denon x3500h is the best reasonably priced receiver because it's the cheapest entry into class leading room correction. If that's too expensive, the Denon x1500h or x1600h are the best second choices and do go down to $300-$350 if you follow sales, but their room correction is not on the level of the 3500+ models.
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Yes, there is certainly no shortage of interesting advice. A pair of HomePods sound way better than a vast majority of home-theater-in-a-box setups people are used to.
As I mentioned there are cheaper and smaller solutions, but they come with significant trade offs. You're going to need quite a few adapters, extractors, and dongles to hook a subwoofer or HDMI only device to a lower cost desktop amp (or deal with the lipsync and reliability issues of ARC), and it's going to be horribly integrated (huge nulls and spikes in the crossover and modal region) with no means to build onto in the future. The speaker amplification in such products is also usually a tertiary feature with low power and high distortion. It's simply not worth the $100 - $150 savings unless you're legitimately bound to a shoestring budget, and even then I'd look to the used AVR market first.
Homepods similarly have no audio inputs, so you're effectively limited to Apple products and stores. It might be a good solution for music if you have an AppleTV or compatible Airplay device, but you're out of luck on the games and subwoofer, and a stereo pair is not especially cheap. Active speakers fall into the same trapping, usually requiring a DAC, dongles/adapers, and ideally a volume controller (hopefully) with a remote. Receivers are simply the easiest and most versatile solution for full size speakers and subs when you plan to have multiple sources.
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