How is the ATgames Legends? I keep seeing the full units pop up on a local auction site. Seems the Sams Club run sold terribly.
-
Ever wanted an RSS feed of all your favorite gaming news sites? Go check out our new Gaming Headlines feed! Read more about it here.
-
We have made minor adjustments to how the search bar works on ResetEra. You can read about the changes here.
Arcade 1UP, MVSX and other Mini (3/4) Arcade Cabinets (Improvements, Increase Cost and Demand)
- Thread starter CoachKevin
- Start date
Nah these ones weren't from there. One was imported from KC in Cali, guy just shipped 3 and decided to sell one. The other one guy said he got from an arcade that closed down about 15 years ago.
Discord - A New Way to Chat with Friends & Communities
Discord is the easiest way to communicate over voice, video, and text. Chat, hang out, and stay close with your friends and communities.discord.gg
Join this discord. It's the Arcade Otaku discord. When in message FuryForce. He has a crate on the way. I believehe charges approx $1500USD
Tagging myself Landy828 with this one, I'm also in SC and have wanted a good setup for a while. I need someone with knowledge on this stuff.
I'm glad I went with the 3/4 cabinets instead of the real deal. No worries about CRT or capacitor maintenance, no swapping boards, etc.
Plus I'm moving soon and was able to take all my cabs apart and put them in their original boxes which I could move by myself in my Civic if I wanted to. If I had real cabs I would need to rent a truck and have helpers.
For keeping in your own home, I think the 3/4 cabs are just way more convenient, compact and appealing.
Plus I'm moving soon and was able to take all my cabs apart and put them in their original boxes which I could move by myself in my Civic if I wanted to. If I had real cabs I would need to rent a truck and have helpers.
For keeping in your own home, I think the 3/4 cabs are just way more convenient, compact and appealing.
That makes more sense honestly, I was mostly just hoping that the good arcade cabs from there had a good home.
They most likely did! Ontario has a fairly big arcade scene.
I'm not sure. I bought the damned thing but now my basement is all tarped out (paint and cement work) so I dont have it hooked up just yet. I have probably another week or so before I get it all sorted out.
OP
OP
Nice! It's an awesome lil cab.Here...We...Go... That was fast...
That's awesome, haha. How'd you get that marquee done?Love my MVSX!
Gary shared 1 photo with you
www.amazon.com
Szabo's Arcade sells them.
Also anyone getting an MVSX, get yourself some Happ competition buttons with cherry microswitches and swap them in when you get it.
Oh wow, how did you enable that? Is that on retropie?I bought an SF2 cab when these first came out but modded it with a Raspberry Pi. The scanline filter makes the games look way better on that LCD screen.
I built one of these and it was a ton of fun. A perfect weekend project with an end result that's robust, sturdy and cool to look at. Your mod looks sick as well. It seems the one you linked has new default artwork. I wonder if it's a new model made to be more compatible with the latest Pis.This is on the FedEx truck awaiting delivery to my home.
Which I intend to mod into this.
Mine has the old design here. The rainbows are off-center instead of coming together in the middle. There also looks to be some new screws attaching the control panel to the cabinet.
Anyway, enjoy building it! I'm sure I've forgotten some things I wished I knew beforehand, but the official YouTube tutorial is pretty solid. If you're going to be adding buttons and such for the SEGA mod I'm sure you know your stuff already.
Last edited:
Going to post a bunch of filters, but first I just want to say... before I got this cabinet, I was completely 100% against curved shaders. They looked stupid and gross on my monitors and TV.
On my actual arcade though, it's a completely different story. It gives that 'depth' that you'd get between the plexiglass screen and where a CRT is actually sitting just a bit behind it.
Admittedly, the illlusion only works when you are sitting right in front of it, but it's a very convincing illusion there.
As for non-CRT systems... that's where pixel shaders come in.
(and here's a zoomed out shot to get a feel for how it looks from a regular distance}
And to finish off this post, here are a couple closeups of the CRT shader (fakelottes since it runs smoothest on a pi4)
On my actual arcade though, it's a completely different story. It gives that 'depth' that you'd get between the plexiglass screen and where a CRT is actually sitting just a bit behind it.
Admittedly, the illlusion only works when you are sitting right in front of it, but it's a very convincing illusion there.
As for non-CRT systems... that's where pixel shaders come in.
(and here's a zoomed out shot to get a feel for how it looks from a regular distance}
And to finish off this post, here are a couple closeups of the CRT shader (fakelottes since it runs smoothest on a pi4)
Don't waste your money on the legacy editions(capcom and MK). They totally screwed them up with the new design.
-wrong control panel artwork(capcom)
-speaker panel rubs against bezel screws(both)
-control panel inset so that your hand rubs against a sharp edge and more cramped space than original(both)
-capcom one has screws placed right where your hand would rest on p1
-bezel artwork cut off at the top(capcom)
-shorter than the originals(both)
-screen is too vertical to see well standing up if you're over 5'8"(both)
-wrong control panel artwork(capcom)
-speaker panel rubs against bezel screws(both)
-control panel inset so that your hand rubs against a sharp edge and more cramped space than original(both)
-capcom one has screws placed right where your hand would rest on p1
-bezel artwork cut off at the top(capcom)
-shorter than the originals(both)
-screen is too vertical to see well standing up if you're over 5'8"(both)
Thank you! I just built it last night and it was a ton of fun! Such a cool little build. Perfect size for me right now since I don't have the space and a few little whipper snappers running around so space is very limited. I love that I can just put this up on a shelve.I built one of these and it was a ton of fun. A perfect weekend project with an end result that's robust, sturdy and cool to look at. Your mod looks sick as well. It seems the one you linked has new default artwork. I wonder if it's a new model made to be more compatible with the latest Pis.
Mine has the old design here. The rainbows are off-center instead of coming together in the middle. There also looks to be some new screws attaching the control panel to the cabinet.
Anyway, enjoy building it! I'm sure I've forgotten some things I wished I knew beforehand, but the official YouTube tutorial is pretty solid. If you're going to be adding buttons and such for the SEGA mod I'm sure you know your stuff already.
And yes this is the newer 2020 model that I got, it includes a Pico 8 license too which is a cool bonus. I was able to boot it up and get controls rocking but I won't be able to get some games running till tonight 😭. Ready to play a fuck load of shmups.
I had the Gen1 Street Fighter and Final Fight cabs. I sold those and got the Capcom Legacy cab and NBA Jam.
While it's true the Capcom Legacy cab design has issues, it was super easy to raise my control deck. Cost me like $5 in parts at Home Depot. And I am not a "handyman" by any stretch of the imagination. I actually raised mine about 1/16" higher than the side panel trim. That additional height, combined with the deck protector height, seems to prevent my hands from rubbing against the edges and prevents the side panel art from coming off.
The other small thing I did was get small, smooth top, rubber plugs to go in the two lower screw holes that hold the deck and deck protector in place. This way your hands (especially player 1) are not rubbing against the screw heads. MUCH better experience. And the deck and deck protector are quite sturdy and in place with just the two screws up top.
While it's true the Capcom Legacy cab design has issues, it was super easy to raise my control deck. Cost me like $5 in parts at Home Depot. And I am not a "handyman" by any stretch of the imagination. I actually raised mine about 1/16" higher than the side panel trim. That additional height, combined with the deck protector height, seems to prevent my hands from rubbing against the edges and prevents the side panel art from coming off.
The other small thing I did was get small, smooth top, rubber plugs to go in the two lower screw holes that hold the deck and deck protector in place. This way your hands (especially player 1) are not rubbing against the screw heads. MUCH better experience. And the deck and deck protector are quite sturdy and in place with just the two screws up top.
This might be a bit off topic but as someone who has some interest in playing some Arcade games, but doesn't want to fully commit to a Arcade 1Up machine or something similar, does anyone have any experience hooking one of these into a windows PC and playing games through either steam releases or some sort of emulators?
GamerPro is really good. You can easily add games as it's got CoinOpsX ready to go. It's on rollback at Walmart.
OP
OP
Pac-Man Legacy arriving today. Also ordered some cheap 3" risers for the MVSX on the way. Wish the included riser was just a bit higher...
Build was alot of fun! It only took about 2.5 hours to build, and get up running. Already ordered some Sanwa buttons and a new stick. Really happy with this.
Last edited:
Everyone says stuff like this, but doing hardware swaps when you have no experience doing them is quite intimidating.
I mean, I used to build PCs all of the time, so I'm not intimidated by stuff like this. And hell I repaired a few joycons last year but there's detailed YT videos to walk you through that. But there's so many types of buttons/sticks/wires and it isn't clear what works and what doesn't.
If I could just swap the buttons and sticks and keep the wiring, I'd probably do it. But no one has a complete guide video or the like for it. The videos on YT are like half there, showing the results after or whatever. There's so many different depths/brands of sticks, ditto for buttons, different kinds of button wiring, it is very confusing.
I have A SF2 1st gen I started modding at work, but didn't finish because covid (haven't seen the office since last March). But that was easy to purchase the parts for because the sticks/buttons were called out with links in the howto video and there are detailed walkthrough videos. Well, actually, I accidentally ordered the wrong LCD driver board the first time, but still.
Even some of the MVS-X videos are like "well this stick didn't quite fit" followed by drilling or moving speakers or something else whacky and not really walked-through.
Last edited:
Build was alot of fun! It only took about 2.5 hours to build, and get up running. Already ordered some Sanwa buttons and a new stick. Really happy with this.
How does it feel to actually use the stick and buttons with this form factor? I'm thinking I want to do a face-to-face bartop setup, but I"m worried it could be uncomfortable if I go this small.
I was also worried with the comfort at this size but you can wrest your wrists on both edges and it's pretty good I think.
Good to hear! This is really close to what I think would be the perfect setup for me. But it would get a decent amount of play, rather than just being a once-in-awhile thing, so I do want it to be comfortable enough that nobody shies away from actually using it.
OP
OP
NBA Jam is soooo much fun with 4 people. I used to throw parties and that was one of the main attractions haha.Then there were 3! The Pac-Man Legacy cab is awesome!
Then there were 3! The Pac-Man Legacy cab is awesome!
Do either of you have any sound issues with NBA Jam? My NBA Jam cab is really loud when on the menu/game selection screen but then noticeably quieter when actually playing any of the three games.
What are those plugs you're talking about? Those screws are annoying
The plugs are here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R457JHX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are a bit small and don't exactly fit snug. I also tried the next two sizes up from those, but they were too big to fit in the holes. I ended up removing my deck protector and super-gluing the underside of the plug caps to my deck protector. I let it dry for a couple hours then put it back on. You could definitely get away using them without superglue. I'd recommend buying them and inserting without and then making the decision.
They are super smooth on top and, while you will notice them as your hands touches them, there's zero friction, so your hand just slides across them, no issues. MUCH better than the screws that are there. And they are small, so they are not any kind of obstruction to your hand movements.
Here's my deck:
And here's an idea of how high I raised it. The little bit it goes above the side panel combined with the deck protector height really does a nice job of preventing hands from rubbing against side panel edge and affecting the side panel artwork (causing it to peel off).
Good idea. That reminds me of carriage bolts. We used those in the arcade to install sticks sometimes back in the day. They have the same type of rounded top and could screw into the holes if you found the right size. My solution is probably gonna be a custom control panel with accurate artwork and repositioned screws. There's a bunch of 3rd party people who make really nice ones and not too expensiveThe plugs are here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R457JHX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are a bit small and don't exactly fit snug. I also tried the next two sizes up from those, but they were too big to fit in the holes. I ended up removing my deck protector and super-gluing the underside of the plug caps to my deck protector. I let it dry for a couple hours then put it back on. You could definitely get away using them without superglue. I'd recommend buying them and inserting without and then making the decision.
They are super smooth on top and, while you will notice them as your hands touches them, there's zero friction, so your hand just slides across them, no issues. MUCH better than the screws that are there. And they are small, so they are not any kind of obstruction to your hand movements.
Here's my deck:
And here's an idea of how high I raised it. The little bit it goes above the side panel combined with the deck protector height really does a nice job of preventing hands from rubbing against side panel edge and affecting the side panel artwork (causing it to peel off).
I'm not too bothered with the cab at this point. I'd love to get a custom deck protetector that gets wider and covers the side panel walls from the just above the joystick all the way down to the bottom of the control deck. I've contacted a bunch of the different companies making custom control decks, replacement deck protectors, etc... for Arcade1up machines and none of them were willing to make what I want.
I'd also love to get the marquee out of the way a bit. I bought the 3" risers OP posted up above and the screen height was great, but the control deck being 3" higher just didn't feel right to me. Maybe attempt to reposition like in the video below, but I am not handy at all and I don't have all the tools necessary to do it properly. Or the time.
Not a repro/mini cab, but here's my Vewlix F. Arcade stuff as a hobby is such a slippery slope! I've got a second cab on the way from Japan as we speak to be used vertically for shmups.
I had never done it before and it wasn't hard other than than unplugging the wires from the board since they are glued. You just have to gently rock the connector back and forth with some needle nose pliers while keeping pressure down on the socket so you don't damage it. It's not nearly as difficult as it seems once you get started. Swapping out sticks on the other hand, no way I am even attempting that.
As far as what you need, just get these exact type of buttons (don't forget the cherry microswitches) and they fit right in perfectly.
Suzo Happ Competition Pushbutton - Red
Suzo Happ Competition Arcade Pushbutton - Red
retrocityarcadeshop.com
And you need these wires to replace the stock ones and you are good to go:
Amazon.com: Guwarry 20 Pcs/Lot Zero Delay USB Encoder Wire Harness with 0.187 Inch Terminals for HAPP Style Arcade Buttons & American Style Arcade Joysticks : Video Games
Buy Guwarry 20 Pcs/Lot Zero Delay USB Encoder Wire Harness with 0.187 Inch Terminals for HAPP Style Arcade Buttons & American Style Arcade Joysticks: Video Games - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
**edit to add that this is strictly for the MVSX. I haven't modded an Arcade1up before.
I have the NBA Jam one and love it. I'm kicking myself for not getting the Rampage one before they went away. I don't like MK so I'm not getting that one instead.
After spending almost the entire day calling Walmart's, and driving to other Walmart's checking stock because no one ever answers the phone, I was defeated. I am looking for a TMNT machine. By now it's probably not going to happen. I needed something to lift my spirits. Then I saw your post. And I bought it instantly as well. So thanks for the heads up
That's awesome. I'm happy to help.
And hey, this is a great 1UP cabinet to have!
I got the MVC and XMvsSF cabs but that SNK cab with 50 games, mostly fighters... I fucking need it.